Atlas Code 55 Sectional track...

Curto Jan 2, 2012

  1. Curto

    Curto TrainBoard Member

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    Hi all,

    I'm thinking about using atlas code 55 for my large layout (when I eventually get there) but I have read some items about certain wheels not working on it.

    I'm considering buying a small quantity of code 55 sectional (although I plan to use flex on the large layout) which I would like to assemble on a flat table temporarilly to test my existing locos/cars on.

    My questions are:
    1) Is the sectional track rail the same as the flex? (in so far as wheels hitting)
    2) Will it stay together unsoldered, unglued on a flat table to run a train on? (obviously I'd solder some feeder wires)

    Thanks!
     
  2. vadimav

    vadimav TrainBoard Member

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    Hello!

    Atlas track has rails with poor alloy.
    I investigate it using Mass-spectrometr technique.
    As standard, it must be NewSilber(German silver)! This alloy is sertified for industrial and for food purposes as having no-oxide layer.

    But Atlas tracks contains quantity of Cu, which significantly exceeds value of standard receipt of NewSilber alloy. If You will compare rails of different manufacturers and will look on it, You will see the following: Atlas rails looks with yellow color, while NewSilber rails has more blue color.
    You can compare Tillig(Trix) and Atlas rails, for example.

    Moreover, Atlas rails contain Zn, which lead to oxydation of surfaces and black cover of rails and wipes, if You will wipe it!

    This property of Atlas rails lead to fast oxydation and fast loosing electrical pickup, and need more often cleaning priocedure.
    --------
    Thanks,
    Vadim
     
  3. C. Giustra

    C. Giustra TrainBoard Member

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    There are some issues with large wheel flanges hitting the spike-heads/tie-plates on the code 55. It is not a problem for most of the newer released locos. I am not familiar with issues in terms of it being any more or less dirty than any other. Sectional track can be set up on a flat surface, but it won't stand up to repeated set-up and tear-down. I would recommend either permanently attaching it to a small piece(2'x4') of 2" thick foam board (Blue-board) or using a track like Unitrack which will stand up to repeated set-up. It also doesn't require an absolutely flat surface like the sectional. Buy yourself one of the sets. It has a pretty good resale value so you can re-coup some of your money when the permanent layout is up and going.
     
  4. Curto

    Curto TrainBoard Member

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    Wow... very informative. How would you rank the various brands of code 55 in terms of oxidization and long term use?
     
  5. jdcolombo

    jdcolombo TrainBoard Member

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    1. Yes.
    2. It will probably stay together fine for a test loop, though you might want to use some thin Scotch double-sided tape on a couple of pieces to hold them in place as a sort of "foundation" for everything else.

    My experience with Atlas code 55 is as follows.

    1. Every Kato and Atlas loco made since the early 90's will be fine.

    2. Early LifeLike locos with brass large-flange wheels will have some issues. My LifeLike SW9 switchers hit the ties, but my LifeLike PA-1's are fine.

    3. Older steam may have issues. Newer steam (Athearn's Challenger, Big Boy, 2-6-0, Walthers/LifeLike Berkshires and 2-8-8-2's, Kato Mikes and GS-4, etc.) will all be fine. I use "manufacture in 2000 or later" as a rough guide - if made in 2000 or later, almost certainly will be fine. Before that, you might want to test.

    4. Arnold and other German manufacturers are a problem because they used large-flange wheelsets - my Arnold S-2's needed a NWSL wheelset upgrade to run, but with those they work great.

    5. Rolling stock with large-flange wheels (e.g. Micro-Trains cars with original large-flange wheelsets, often referred to as "pizza cutters") will hit the ties. Easy fix: get MT lo-profile wheels, or FVM metal wheelsets with lo-profile flanges. Most rolling stock made in the past 10 years other than MicroTrains has some kind of lo-profile wheel (though many could still benefit from an upgrade to FVM metal wheels or MT plastic lo-profile wheels).

    6. Everything MUST be SPOT-ON in gauge using an NMRA gauge. Many locos come with the factory with the wheels gauged just a tad narrow. Chances are you will have issues with these running through Code55 turnouts. Atlas #7 and #5 turnouts have much more prototypical spacing between the stock rails and point rails on the turnouts than Peco or other brands, and the result is that a slightly-narrow wheelset will often derail at the "notch" where the point rail fits into the stock rail. Another way to solve this is to use a soldering iron and apply just enough heat to one of the point rails to move it slightly to the center on the plastic tie that holds the point rails. But then you lose some of that nice prototypical spacing. If you're going to set up a test track, buy at least one of each kind of turnout you plan on using and test that, too.

    But having said all this, I will say that once you have everything in gauge, the Atlas Code 55 track is the smoothest-operating commercial track available. The only better alternative probably would be using Micro-Engineering Code 55 flex with hand-laid Code 55 turnouts using FastTracks jigs.

    John C.
     
  6. Curto

    Curto TrainBoard Member

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    How have you found atlas code 55 insofar as corrosion/cleaning? I would like at some point in the future to build turnouts by hand, but don't have the time right now... I've heard good things about ME but it's quite a cost difference...
     
  7. Curto

    Curto TrainBoard Member

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    I'm not entirely green... My dad and I used code 80 flex on our layout about 15 years ago... and I bought a bunch of (mostly used) code 80 and built 2 small layouts (one roundy-round, one switching) to get my hand back in :) I'm in the process of disposing of all the left over code 80 stuff because I don't like the look of it.
     
  8. jdcolombo

    jdcolombo TrainBoard Member

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    No problems. I do run trains around my layout every few days, but everything seems to work just fine. I started the layout in June, and just finished being able to do a continuous run about three weeks ago. There were parts of the layout that hadn't seen a locomotive in 4 months that ran fine after I vacuumed up the accumulated dust and did a quick swipe with some 600-grit sandpaper on a sanding block (my cleaning technique of choice).

    You can see photos of my layout to give you an idea of what I'm talking about here:

    https://picasaweb.google.com/jdcolombo/NewNKPConstruction

    John C.
     
  9. Curto

    Curto TrainBoard Member

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    What a inspiration... my long term goal is to build a layout to represent part of the CSX St Lawrence subdivision... mostly single track passing through a few small towns and serving small industries. I think deep down it's really just a excuse to do landscape modeling and collecting trains... but don't tell my wife that :D
     
  10. muktown128

    muktown128 TrainBoard Member

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    My suggestion on trying out the sectional track would be to use foam insulation board and tack the track in place. I did this using code 80 sectional track on 1-1/2" thick foam board and it seems to work well. I ran some trains on this arrangement with no problems. I used common track nails and some Peco SL-14 track fixing pins. The Peco pins are a little longer and thinner with a smaller diameter head than the other track nails.

    I have a bunch of code 55 track (flex, sectional, and switches) that I plan to use on my future layout and was thinking of doing the same thing using track nails and foam board. I'll post an update when I get this done.

    One other trick I use to temporarily wire track for power is to stick the feed wires into the rail joiners before slipping them on the track. I put the wire on the side of the joiner that would be on the outside part of the rail.

    Scott
     
  11. y0chang

    y0chang TrainBoard Member

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    what muktown said is what I do to test track arrangements. You can use regular track nails pushed into the foam between the ties. At the turnouts I find that two on each side of the point rails helps if you have a ground throw. You can also use a track nail into the throw bar to set a switch to one direction or you can temporary install a ground throw. Just be careful on putting too much force, atlas code 55 turnouts can easily bend specially at the notches where the point rails hit. What everyone else said is true too many older stock and cookie cutters will hit the spikes. If you have a lot of older rolling stock be prepared to tinker and replace a ton of wheelsets. I have a tupperware container filled with pizza cutters. Narrow gauge wheelsets will cause point picking and derailments. If you don't want to deal with all this, peco code 55 is the standby. Still atlas code 55 is really the only choice for prototypical appearance commercial track, although honestly peco doesn't look so bad once ballasted and painted.
     
  12. Boilerman

    Boilerman TrainBoard Supporter

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    I used Atlas code 55 on my layout which was built in 2005, was in storage from 2006 to 2010 when I set it back up, cleaned the rails with a bright boy and have not touched it since and have had no problems with dirt on the rails or wheels.
    I do have the layout in a heated finished basement.

    Yes one has to run equipment that has low profile flanged wheels and all must be in gage to operate correctly through the turnouts.
     
  13. jdetray

    jdetray TrainBoard Member

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    I use Atlas Code 55 for my layout, mostly flex, with a few pieces of sectional mixed in. There are no issues mixing Atlas Code 55 flex and sectional.

    I strongly recommend using flex for all long sections of track to avoid having a rail joint every few inches. The fewer rail joiners you have, the fewer potential points failure. Do not depend on rail joiners to conduct electricity, except as a temporary solution. For a permanent layout, I run feeders to each section of track and each turnout.

    I was concerned at first about wheel flanges hitting the molded "spikes" on Atlas Code 55. This is been only a very minor nuisance, quickly solved with replacement wheelsets on the few pieces of rolling stock whose wheels came with oversized flanges.

    - Jeff
     
  14. vadimav

    vadimav TrainBoard Member

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    Usually, a good fitting wheels for Atlas C55 are :

    Metallic Wide Foxwalley, Atlas metallic , Intermountain.

    Dont fit:

    1)Almost all european wheels. They are too large (width, flange)
    2)FoxWalley standart. They are too narrow and can fall into frogs.

    NewSilber like alloys have : Trix, Tillig, Peco.


    ME, Atlas, Roco - dont have right alloy.

    For KATO - i dont know.
    --------
    Vadim.
     
  15. Boilerman

    Boilerman TrainBoard Supporter

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    I have a mix of wheels, FV metal along with MT plastic and see no difference in the dirt that each collect, which has been none in a year of running, just a matter of what one wants to use :thumbs_up:.
     
  16. davidh

    davidh TrainBoard Member

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    Just as a general comment, while the metalurgical analysis is interesting, I've been using Atlas code 55 ever since it was introduced and have never had any unusual problems with oxidation or conductivity.

    Dave
     
  17. nolatron

    nolatron TrainBoard Member

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    In my experience with Atlas C55, I've had train cars and engines run perfectly fine on code 55 flex, but would hit the ties on code 55 sectional.
     
  18. Curto

    Curto TrainBoard Member

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    That's a very interesting and relevant comment. How different is the sectional from the flex, and what rolling stock was causing the issues for you?
     
  19. vadimav

    vadimav TrainBoard Member

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    Hello!

    1) I aim to save rails in spikes with time, You must pre-turn flex as perfectly fiting the radius, for laying without any tension.

    2) Oxydation depends on dust content and quantity, and from air mixture(humidity, free radicals, etc..). Arching on NewSilber dont proceed any oxydation. Arching on Atlas (due to motion on dusted track) lead to black patina (layer) due to exceed of copper in Atlas rails.

    ---------
    Vadim.
     
  20. Curto

    Curto TrainBoard Member

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    My layout will be in a cellar... there is very little moisture down there (will be even less when I get it finished... right now it's mortar/stone foundation and a uneven concrete floor. I intend to mortar the walls, and paint with waterproof paint to seal them, the floor I intend to level with another layer of concrete and then paint with epoxy paint similar to what is used in garages). Dust will also be minimal, but I intend to install a filter on the furnace duct down there to cut down circulation of particles drawn from the 1st floor.

    Thanks to all for the input so far! This has been a educational thread for me :)
     

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