The specific rail joiners for Peco code 55 track seem to be expensive at $.10 each (24 for $2.50 best price I could find). I understand Atlas rail joiners are a different fit (narrower). Can they be used as a less expensive substitute?
I use the Atlas rail joiners all the time on Peco code 55. They are not a slim and don't look as nice but when weathered and surounded by ballast they kind of disappear. They are also much easier for me to install.
Someone else complained about how hard they are to slide on and they don't hold as well. Does the same apply to insulated joiners?
I prefer the Peco insulated joiners. They are more difficult to install but the Atlas ones are just so honking huge.
I tried Atlas rail jointers and they just didn't fit in the Peco turnouts, OK with just flex track. I like the stronger and better looking Peco, there harded to install because there made out of better material, the Atlas are soft and bend way to easy.
One of the truly false 'savings' in layout construction would be in not using the right/tight rail joiners. About the time you have electrical dropouts due to corrosion and lack of a good, tight, fit.... and end up having to tear up stuff to solder jumpers, or the joiner, or tear stuff out for replacement joiners.. I stayed with the Peco. Grumbling, but stayed. For the same reasons I never re-use Atlas rail joiners, period. Once they get loose or corroded, replace. You usually don't see the worst of it until you either paint rail, ballast, or both, but that's when it'll getcha.
I do remember Atlas joiners were kinda thin from my 1st real layout 15 years ago. I think I jave to agree with you on that. It just pisses me off what they charge for a rail joiner.
Wrong thing to go cheap on, my opinion. BTW, I can't use Atlas joiners Peco/Peco or Peco/Atlas in c80 or c55. But I can join Peco/Atlas w/Peco joiners. So, ... Peco insulated joiners look a bit awkward (but Atlas might be even more so.) A get around there is to always use the metal connectors and to cut the rails bit upstream and fill with a non-conductor. (But I don't do this when switch feeds to switch.)
Having built mostly NTRAK modules, I solder every rail joiner so I go for cheap. There is not enough expansion in a four foot section of track on a module to worry about.
I have had the same problem with tight joiners. So what I come up with is to get a piece of rail sharpen/deburr it a little on the end and put it in a small vice grip pliers and leave the rail sticking out just under half the length of the joiner. Then i get a needle nose pliers with deep groves in the jaws and place/hold the joiner in there and slip the joiner over the rail wiggle it and then slide it on till it touches the side of the vice grip. Then I flip it over and repeat the process. Once the joiner is (conditioned) I go ahead and install it on the layout. This really work out well for myself I hope this is useful info for anyone else that is interested.
The additional time isn't worth the slight savings. It was just a idea. Bill is right, no place to penny pinch. I'll go with Peco, even though it's a ridiculous price; only 24 joiners for $3.
