Hello again. I have one question: Can i use isopropanol-soaked felt to remove NO-OX after treatment, or i should use only dry onr? ----------- Vadim.
I applied No-Ox in march 2010 and haven't cleaned track since. I did apply too much and had a black residue for about three months until I wiped it all clean. No further problems. I presume the black residue was excess No-Ox and the dust. [edit] My track is Peco code 55.
Thanks, Flash BlackMan! But Peco C55 - has the best alloy content! It's real NewSilber! It must not oxydize. No-Ox is intended for track with bad alloy, containing a excesses of Copper and Zn, like Atlas, or MicroEngineering. by theway, i still have one question: Can i use isopropanol-soaked felt to remove NO-OX after treatment, or i should use only dry one? ---------- Vadim.
As I understood, If one finished NO-OX tratment, He should not use any wet cleaning of rails after this moment? Is it right? --------- Vadim.
I am also using ME and Atlas track. (Atlas Code 55 and ME Code 55 weathered) I have not seen any difference in operation between the two. The Atlas track does expand and contract alot more then the ME. My layout is in a large garage and temps change from the 30's in winter to over 100 in summer. I use brightboys, a slimjim, and cmx track cleaning car for my rail cleaning.
I still have the first bottle of NO-OX that I bought in the 70's. I built 4 layouts since that time including my current RR. I only clean track a couple times a year usually before an open house. Just remember a little goes a long ways.
Hello again. I ask unanswered question again: As I understood, If one finished NO-OX tratment, He should not use any wet cleaning of rails after this moment? Is it right? --------- Vadim.
Hello Vadim - You can read the instructions for NO-OX here: http://www.nscale.org/forum/frameset.html?http://www.nscale.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22238 Nothing is said about wet cleaning after applying NO-OX. So the answer is: No wet cleaning after applying NO-OX. - Jeff
-F-I-N-A-L- -D-A-T-A- Hello again! Now i test NO-OX and receive the following results: CONDITION: 1) In comparison with 200 tracks of Atlas C55, i also have 15 ME tracks at my layout, which strongly oxidised every wheek(7 days) after full cleaning, and locos moves poorly with blinking lights, car lights cannot start shining at all. 2) I cleaned this track and covered it by No-Ox at 4 hours, because i had small time to my train which moved me to vacation (24h recommended ) 3) Only 1 loco was moved on NO-OX treated rails (all recomended) 4) After 4 hours i wiped all NO-OX and this loco wheels too by dry felt (as in manual). 5) 2 weeks i was at vacation and layout was completely shut down. RESULTS: 6) All locos start to move excellently after 2 week, and then during 2 week of working. 7) Only at 3 tracks of 15 i see slight command delay by passing it only to car-light decoders. CONCLUSION: "It really helps" My professor told me that No-OX probably contains Chromium salts, because their widely usage for anti-oxydation on Melchior - like alloys. ---------- Vadim.
So if you do all this, and then you run abrasive track cleaners, you will undo the work of the NO-OX, right? Or not? I would like to try this at the club but I feel it would be futile getting all the guys to agree and understand.
I think, isopropanole felt wiping can completely remove it and it's effect from top of rails. --------- Vadim
Ben: I tried this in my H0 scale club and it was bedlam. Absolutely not! (They said.) Some wanted to try but they didn't stand a chance against the dry-rails group. So I tried it secretly and I didn't think it worked as well on H0 scale as on N scale. I certainly can't explain that. You will get some residue and members all panicked when that happened, even if the residue was conductive. It is just too hard to do without cooperation. If one guy uses a bright-boy it is gone. Just my experience.
Vadim, 91% isopropryl will remove excess NO-OX, which is what you want to do. Acetone is even better.
Pete, The talk was about completely removal NO-Ox and their effect. (in aim to compare, for example...) If Yoy want to save(remain) effect - use only dry felt to remove excess! A thin film of NO-OX must be remained at tops of rails and wheels for all time! Moreover, Acetone in comparison with IsoPropanole will dissolve any paint and plastic ties! It must be newer applied at layout! It's too dangerous! IsoPropanole dont have any affect on enamel paints and plastic ties. ---------- Vadim
Vadim, I was joking a little about the acetone Acetone must be used with extreme care, so that it doesn't hit plastic or paint. And it is extremely flammable, so I don't use it in my track cleaning cars, where a stray spark could cause a fire or even explosion. I use it mostly to clean paint and airbrushes, as it is very inexpensive and not dangerous when used with extreme care and a lot of ventilation. And also to separate my fingers when I have glued them together or to a part with super glue Does not No-Ox create a chemical reaction with the nickel silver rails? If that is true, then it would be very hard to reverse the reaction, which is what I meant. Isopropanol will remove all the No-Ox, but not reverse the reaction. I believe this is just a surface reaction, which wears away over time, or with some scrubbing with, as you suggested, dry felt. I haven't looked at the effects of No-Ox for many years, as my layout was in a very clean enivronment and the track rarely required cleaning.
Thanks, Pete. I think supplier of No-Ox means that remaining thin monomolecular layer of grease will serve against further small scratches on wheels and rails during layout working. This layer will react with fresh injuries and prevent oxydation for a long time. Therefore isopropanole removing of excess of No-Ox is not recomended. It will remove all No-Ox. --------- Vadim
There are some period of time finished after No-Ox application ! But No-Ox still works on tracks where strong oxydation happened earlier! ---- Vadim