I have redone my layout with Micro-trains track and I'm generally happy with it, although I wish there was a rerailer/crossing track available like in N scale, and I wish there was a simple way way to insulate the track with plastic joiners (once again, like in N scale or like Marklin). But the above is just "observations." What I'd like to know are two things: 1) I see that it says that the Micro-trains flex track is "not compatible" with the other M-T track because it is without roadbed. Fine. But does the flex track have a joining setup that is compatible with a Micro-trains turnout? I sure wouldn't mind having a siding without roadbed, if it would connect easily with the M-T turnout. But if it won't, I'm just not up to any "challenges" at the moment. 2) Another siding question---I see that Micro-trains track has no "bumper track" (like you can get in N scale). If I have a siding with M-T track, do I saw off the end of the last section of track that ends the siding, to square it off for a tie pile barrier or something similar? (I suppose the answer is "yes" to that!) Any ideas? In any case, though, I'm especially interested to know how easily the M-T flex joins with the M-T turnout, and thanks for any help.
If you go to Stonebridgemodels.com and look under NZT products there is a re-railer road crossing set to add to Micro Roadbed track, in addition to end of track devices. You can connect Micro Trains Flex to Micro Trains Micro Track with standard rail joiners on each product, you just have to remove the roadbed joiner that you are not using. There is obviously a height difference so you will need some form of rad bed material under the flex to match the rail height at the connection between the two track types. Could be foam board, Cork, woodlandscenic's track underlayment. so there are several options.I can not give you any particular one that will exactly match the Micro Track height when placed under the flex track. http://www.nztproducts.com/zd-rerailer.htm http://www.nztproducts.com/zd-bump.htm
Please scroll down this web page to find both re-railer/crossings as well as bumpers, both compatible with Micro-Track.: http://www.zscalemonster.com/nzt/ As far as connecting flex track with roadbed track, there is no problem as long as the flex track is left straight. As soon as you bend the flex, you will need to cut the rails to square them off, as well as remove a tie or two, in order to get it to join the roadbed track. You will also need to shim up the flex to match the roadbed track height, but plain cork should do the trick. Edit: Once again, Garth and I post at almost exactly the same time...
Jay, If you build up the roadbed for the flex track by about 70 mils it will connect to the sectional. The rail used on the flex is about 20 mil higher than the rail on the sectional and people seem to generally file the flex down to match the sectional, although for your siding application it may not be important. Historically, bumpers have been an add-on to the track in Z. Marklin makes a couple of European bumpers and NZT a number of American prototypes for most, if not all track types. The problem with comparing the MTL selection to that in N scale is that the MTL track is an incomplete offering: key pieces are missing from the selection and while MTL is back in production with the sectional track and suggested at the NZSC last year there would be more sections coming, you're still stuck with building layouts that look mostly like ovals. While I'm not well versed in N scale, it seems that Rokuhan has a more complete list of sections, including a conversion joiner and a bumper track. But keep comparing Z to N scale: it will help us add to Z. Of course what do I know. I started with American Flyer trains where all you got was turnouts, a crossing, a straight track, a curved track and a hack saw with instructions. Hope this helps, Mark
Mark, It is indeed sad that for whatever the reason, we have not seen more Micro Track options. As you stated, the Micro Track is incomplete in that it does not offer the necessary pieces to build a layout more easily as Rokunan does. The tie spacing on Rokuhan is one negative in IMHO, however, you sure can't fault Rokuhan for supplying in a fairly short time period the pieces necessary to make about anything that most modelers would want.
If you don't want the insulated joint to necessarily be where two pieces of track join, you can always use a thin cutting disk in a Dremel like tool to cut through the rail any where you wish. The roadbed will keep the rail in place and the joint space can be filled with some sort of filler to prevent any rail expansion from closing the gap. This is how I lay my track. I join it all up and after it is secured in place I cut any gaps anywhere I please. I am doing this with MTL's flex track but the same procedure will work on any track type.
You can use the Atlas plastic insulators, or you can simply remove the metal joiner; the plastic roadbed holds the rail in alignment reliably enough that omitting the metal part causes no problems. Note, however, that cutting through the rail at any random location is not recommended (sorry, Loren, but if it's worked for you, you've been lucky). Because of the way the track is designed, this can cause the rail to become loose and shift around.
I accept your sorry David ) ...actually I have not tried it on sectional track so I spoke out of place. It does work fine with flex IF the flex is securely anchored with CA as I use.
I picked some of these up and am glad I did. I just have mine temporarily stuck down with white glue, but it is nice to have something to get those wheels back on track. Works like a charm and is very realistic looking.
I might have mentioned this before, but I also got one of the crossing/rerailers, painted it a little, and it has been very satisfactory. I haven't even glued it down yet---the middle part, between the rails, I may never glue down, because it stays in place pretty well as it is (to the point of forgetting that you even installed it). A worthwhile, useful product, and I thank those here that clued me in.
