Hello, I purchased an old train set and need help to get this thing rolling again. The person I got it from said he's never actually ran it and has been sitting in his garage for about 10 years. No idea how old this thing really is. The set appears to be some type of kit as it's made out special cardboard. Can someone tell me exactly what this is? I believe it is Atlas track. The track itself is oxidized pretty bad and has a broken joint here and there. The lights come on from the AC connection on the transformer, but do not appear to be getting any power at the rails. I checked connections underneath and nothing is loose. The transformer itself could be bad, no idea. What is the easiest way to verify the transformer is actually sending out current? Is there a simple meter I need to get to touch the rails and see if anything is going on? Is it worth putting a ton of effort into the existing track or should I consider a retro of some sort? I think the set has some really cool details and potential, but don't want to waste time on track that isn't worth the hassle. Advice welcome!! Thanks, Rich
A few things. Yes, you can purchase a voltmeter for pretty cheap, and use that to test track current. Do this by touching the leads on the voltmeter to the top of the track, and also to the connection points at the power pack where the track where is connected. I believe a simple Voltmeter can be acquired at Radio Shack for ~$15, and should be more than enough for what you want to use it for. One thing I would suggest before doing this is to clean the tops of the rails. You will be able to tell when they are clean when they are polished up to a near-mirror shine. Even so, a voltmeter may not tell you anything if the track is dirty. Secondly, I don't think I've seen a kit like this before, but honestly it looks like it is just made of foam and corrugated cardboard. I can't help you with the track as it looks strange to me. Doesn't look like code 80 or 55, but I could be wrong. It looks like it is a relatively decent layout, just needs some sprucing up. Nice find.
Hi Rich, Looking at the scale of the people it looks like a narrow gauge layout, HOn3 maybe? The track ties look quite large? James
This is definitely an HOn3 layout. The proportions of the station and the size of the tunnel portals indicate HO scale. The track looks to be either painted or brass, and if the latter, it will be badly corroded. Getting this thing operational again will take time time, patience and some elbow grease. The rail heads will need to be stripped down to bare metal again--either a Brite Boy or very fine sandpaper will likely be needed. (That'll be a challenge with all of those tunnels!) All of the track joints will need to be inspected/tested with a meter, and cleaned/soldered as needed. IMO, it would be entirely out of place to operate N scale trains on it, but that's up to you.
Ok, did a little more discovery and found that the control panel opens up! More questions here. You will notice that there are four switches on the control panel. One is for lights, Two for turnouts and one more (in yellow) that goes near the outer part of the track. What would the possible purpose for that be? Also, you will notice in the pics there is a speaker. There is definitely a footprint of a missing building. I see some labeling for speaker, so wondering what type of sound would have been implemented. Also, I found on the side there is a brochure rack with a card next to it saying "est 1999" cool!!. Seems like someone was pretty serious about it at one time. Yes, I agree that the scale for N is not correct, but my kids and guests won't care either way. Not knowing what HOn3 is, is that HO scale trains that can be use on N track? Btw, came with a bunch of N engines, some kato, some not sure, which i'll post later for questions. I did test them on my working layout and the kato stuff ran perfect out of the gate. The other stuff is going to need some help and I have no idea what I need to do to get them going. Silly question, but wonder if there is an honest pro out there I could send all the engines to have tested/cleaned/fixed and put them back to working condition. I paid $100.00 for the whole thing, which I think is a pretty good score. Please bare with me on this stuff as I'm a relative novice. I do have an N scale Kato layout that I put together, but the maintenance and connections are much simpler.
The first thing I would do is spend time cleaning the track. Once you get a meter check strait off of the transformer first. This will either eliminate a bad transformer or confirm it is bad. It is an awesome start with a ton of potential. Great find there. If you were close to me I would be there in a heartbeat to help get it running again. Best of luck, Shaun
Having an Atlas setup way back when, I remember what a chore it was to maintain the rails, soldering and replace those burned out turnout solenoids. btw, I had no intention of buying another layout. I was simply searching on craiglist for an engine and one of those "all or nothing" ads I couldn't pass up. Yah, the wife was thrilled when I came home with a van full of stuff! haha
The plot thickens.. found an old voltmeter, jiggled a few wires and I have power to the rails. I cleaned a section off and tested a loco. The motion is kinda jerky and rough, as if it's coming off the track. I look closer and the inner part of the wheels appear to be touching the ties. I ran just a box car over it and same thing. Not free motion. I also notice that the track seems almost a different size, like a hair wider. Is this not even the right size stuff for this track??? The good news is I have power all around the entire track, just needs a good cleaning.
That is correct, although N scale track is not truly the correct gauge for HOn3; true HOn3 track is 10.5 mm gauge, whereas N scale track is 9 mm gauge. It looks as though you may have a "true" HOn3 layout, in which case you are correct, N scale equipment will not run properly on it. You may be forced to go shopping for some HOn3 equipment--you'll just have to make sure it's not HOn30, which is designed for 9 mm track.
Sounds like you've got a true HOn3 layout. It won't be compatible with N scale, for a number or reasons. HOn30 would allow you to run N, as it is true N gauge. These are both "narrow gauge" HO scale. Sounds like your other issue is flanges hitting the ties.
Missed that you had begun testing the track. Sorry about the detail below. Skip to the switches and track cleaning part. Agree that you have a narrow gauge setup and N-scale may not operate on this track. TESTING EXPLANATION: The Tech II is a DC power pack. Inside the box is a 16v AC transformer and a DC rectifier or rectifying circuit. You use the DC output for the track and trains. The AC is for accessories like lights and remote control track turnouts, not for the trains. Be careful if you open that box. The transformer is reducing 110v AC house current. I'd leave that alone and only test the outputs. Follow the directions for that inexpensive multi-meter you got at Radio Shack, Sears, the corner hardware or one of the big home improvement stores. It make a great battery tester, too. Set the probes and meter to measure, first AC. On the 10-16v AC, measure the output at the screw terminals marked AC. You should get a steady readout as these terminals are designed for unregulated output. If it reports a (-) negative, it just means the probes are reversed. Red wire probe is (+); black is (-). After testing the AC output, reset the multimeter to 10-16 DC volts. Test the DC screw terminals. Rotate the control knob to get voltages from 0 to 16 at full power. If you get comparable readings at the terminals, you have a working Tech II. If the DC is bad, but the AC is good, you can stiill use the AC output for accessories, but will need a new power supply. If the Tech II is supplying DC at the terminals, start to work down the line through the track. SWITCHES: Those switches inside the track diagram control panel are probably DPDT or DPDT/CO (or SPDT, SPDT/CO) and are wired as follows: (1) the switch on the left is either a master ON/OFF or a direction control; (2) the top switch (bottom, when open) and the two on the blue sidings are probably track power. This complicates trouble-shooting because you have to manipulate two switches while testing the track. Attach your meter probes to the track with alligator clips and apply power. If no reading, throw ON/OFF switch to the left or right. If it has 2 positions, it is DPDT (or SPDT); 3 positions, the center is an OFF, too. With that switch set to a position (L, C, R), throw the top track switch to L C or R. Set the 1st switch to another position (LCR) and rethrow track switch to L, then C, then R, Repeat if there is a 3rd position on SW 1. If none of those combinations give a reading, you have to check the wiring. It looks like the terminal strip inside the panel has power to the lower screw and power from the top screw. Test the first pair with probes. And so on with those labeled track. I think the two on the sidings are simple ON/OFF for the sidings so you can park a loco. CLEANING: Try the tests. eliminating good and bad connections. Once you know you have track power, you can start cleaning the track. I'd use chemical track cleaner, definitely NOT sandpaper. That just creates grooves for more corrosion -- http://www.model-railroad-infoguy.com/track-cleaning.html. By the way, the Tech II and the tie spacing suggests this is HO scale on Narrow gauge track. If you replace track with N-scale track (narrower tie spacing) to run N scale equipment, reduce the tunnel opening sizes, too.
If N scale is what you really want one could recycle the layout. What I mean by this is what I read in a MR article years ago. A guy had done the same thing you did. He bought a layout that was HO scale. He removed the buildings, and tunnel portals. HE was able to widen slightly the grade to allow for 2 N scale mainlines around the layout instead of 1 HO mainline. The only issue I would see with this layout is if you did "recyle" the layout, you would have to rewire it as well. Might be a PITA for you. The other issue would be the trestle might be slightly large for N scale. Just my thoughts on it. The layout appears to be a diamond in the rough though. Get the layout running then work on some scenery here and there and you will have a pretty good layout. Ryan
Is HOn3 something that is defunct and hard to find? I have never even heard of it. Does Atlas make that type of track or is it most likely some other mfr? thanks, Rich
Rich- HOn3 is not at all defunct. It is a very popular scale for those who wish to model such as the Denver & Rio Grange Western RR, or East Broad Top narrow gauge operations. Some folks hand lay the track. Some buy from a manufacturer such as Micro Engineering.
I'm fine with buying HOn3 stuff, if that's what it takes. I would rather not rip it apart for new track if it works. Guess I need to track down a loco and see how it works. What the scoop on the sound? There's a speaker and a power connection. Wondering what type of system was used for that. Thanks all!
Is there some information on that speaker, etc? A brand name, part number? Or it could have been something home brewed. Perhaps a photo or two might help.
Can I buy regular HO boxcars and put HOn3 trucks on them? If possible, seems like a cheaper way to go. I realize an HOn3 loco is essential. thanks, Rich
