Yet another daydream project that may see the light of day. 1) I am guessing the split frame of the locos is for electrical purposes. 2) If I were to bash two of them together, (in particular the LL FA1 and FB1), I am guessing I need to: A) Keep the frames electricaly isolated or B) Figure out what end can touch which? Any ideas? [ April 17, 2005, 05:53 PM: Message edited by: Grey One ]
"A" definitely. If "A", then "B" shouldn't be a problem--you can run split-frame units back-to-back or front-to-back without worrying about polarity (it switches when you turn an engine around). As long as you keep one side separate from the other, you'll be OK.
Steve, Yes, your daydream can happen. I have cut and JB welded frames, and it works. Just keep the frames straight and square.
Thanks guys. I'm not sure what "JB welding" is. My thought was to make a jig to hold them straight and then hold them together with a non conductive "plate" screwed into the bottom This would require drilling and tapping and screwing. If the JB method is easier I'm all for it.
JB Weld is an epoxy product sold in Ace Hardware stores and maybe other places. There are two types of frame operations. ( IMHO ) One is the splice and the other is the stretch. I think you want to splice on this project. (I have stretched SD40 frames to make a tunnel motor; different operation.) In any case, the structure does not have to be super strong. You only have to get it inside the shell as once it is there, it is no longer going to be subject to external stresses. I would think that JB Weld is ideal for a splice.
Steve, I have tried other types of epoxy's and they don't work very well. JB Weld is the best I have found to use. You can find it auto parts stores too. Rodney
Rodyney, Thanks! Sounds like something I can do. Since you are new here you don't know about my limited vision. This will _really_ help! And A very very big WELCOME! To Trainboard. Please let me know if there is ever anything I can do for _you_!
Harold, A big long something or other that will then be painted up in a pesudo GN Olive / Orange. Since you asked here's a better idea: Original: http://www.some train store.com/prodimgs/LLP2K7440.gif Easy to do in Paint, wonder if I can do the actual. Hmm Am I crazy? What say you? [ April 16, 2005, 02:15 PM: Message edited by: Grey One ]
Steve, Thanks for the welcome. That monstrosity that you have in mind looks very doable. The gear towers could be cut off of the trailing trucks and a drawbar of so sort made to mate to the other truck. Leave both motors in, and drive the two end trucks. should PULL a ton. Rodney
Rodney, Exactly what I intended with the trucks after studying the way Con Cor did them with the U50s. Thanks and welcome again!
Steve, That's pretty cool! I think it is very doable. Like someone else said, reminds me of the CC U50's! Harold
Certainly it is doable. The only downside to this is it's ability to traverse curves. Without some form of articulation the trucks at either end will prone to derailing unless it runs on very broad curves. The out for that is to have the centre trucks able to move laterally side to side a few millimetres to allow for tighter curves (or the front and rear truck), but that would require some redesigning of the truck mounting.
Gary and Harold, Thanks. Gary, The "centre" trucks will be, (if all goes well) just for looks: //Edit: And if I can't get them to work, (which is possible), I'll leave the centre trucks off. [ April 16, 2005, 04:05 PM: Message edited by: Grey One ]
If it runs at all my main line is 15" to 28" with #6 turnouts using Kato Unitrak. Most smaller than 19 will be hidden or obscured. Can I pull it off? Steps: 1. Get recommended epoxy 2. Get brand new Razor saw to cut shells 3. Get alcohol to clean shells and epoxy point. 4. Get camera 5. Make draw bars 6. Make Jig to hold things in place 7. Epoxy chassis together 8. Test to see if they run on straight 9. Measure, re measure and cut shells 10. Test fit 11. Sand shells down 12. Test fit 13. Glue shells together 14. Test run 15. Snoopy Dance! 16. Test run on 15” curves Last step: Get my layout built so I can really run it. [ April 16, 2005, 04:29 PM: Message edited by: Grey One ]
Hmmmm.... are you set on having four trucks? Seing the pics I'm thinking a DD configuration (ala DD40X or DD35) might be cool, too - then you wouldn't have to sacrifice the traction lost by unpowering the center trucks. DDFA-1! Of course I haven't seen Bachmann's DD40X trucks so I don't know if all wheels get power or not. Neet looking project tho! -Mike
I'd love to have a DD configuration but I don't think I have the engineering skills. Instead if it does work I'll "Pimp it out" with extra horns, Fans, Radiator Grills and lights. Looks like it will be a BB unit. Picture to follow. [ April 16, 2005, 07:39 PM: Message edited by: Grey One ]
You could just start with the DD-40 Chassis, and build this on top...repower with lifelike where necessary...
