Has anyone had any luck using rubbing alcohol for weathering washes? Ive seen information on alcohol & indian ink and alcohol & acrylic paint being used, some modellers say it works and others dont so im getting mixed messages. Any one with tips, advice if they have used this method or a link to it would be appreciated! Cheers Paul
As with most things model train related, everyone has an opinion. I find that people often will say something doesn't work because they did not take the time to learn how to do it properly. I would advise getting some old junk stock to practice on. Use many different techniques separately and together on one model. You never know what you'll learn or possibly invent. I've used a lot of different techniques from washes to bounce weathering and dry pigment rubs. I can't say I've ever mastered it and some days I just didn't have the frame of mind to do it right, whereas others I seemed to be in the "zone" with my weathering. My favorite is dry chalk without a sealing fixative. That way I can always wash it off with water and start over.
Hi Paul, I did some early experiments with alcohol and acrylic washes. The results were just "ok" in my opinion. They look better than shiney new cars but don't have that look of realism like so many here at Trainboard can achieve. I just tried to upload some pictures of my attempts at weathering with alcohol but it appears my trainboard photo collection has become corrupted. :crying:I can't access it by just clicking on "my photos" nor can I download to it. If I get 'er straightened out I'll post the pics. Good luck and what Geeky says, just get some cheapo cars and try a technique or two of your choosing and see what happens. Brian
Small success. I was able to get into my photo collection via a "back door" and upload a picture. Like I said, it isn't very llfelike (actually it's a roundhouse ) but it was just a first attempt. Initally the wash went on very uniform, but as the alcohol evaporated the pigment started to attract to anything that wasn't flat. I think a bit more weathering with chalks and individual rust spots would go a long way. Like most projects in modeling it takes multiple layers to get the desired results. Brian
Its all about experimenting to find your magic mixture. I could never get the acrylic washes to create the effects I wanted, so I use oils. Gives me days to move the paint around. Have you tried it yet or are you hoping for advice before you venture in? Be sure to wash the cars first. If you have an airbrush add a layer of acrylic clear coat or flat finish to any satisfying look to lock it in, and start with a clear coat to secure the original car finish. Then you can add and remove layers as you move along. One of my club mates , Michael P. put me onto this and I found the clear coat alone adds a very nice finish. Avoid Dullcoat so you don't end up with the random turtle shell look.
Warning. That discoloration along the ribs is looking like the original finish coming off. Just say'n. Ask me how I recognize that look. Not bad if you stop now, but I fear the molded plastic color may be shining through if you don't seal it before adding more. PS, I know what you mean about the pictures, but my $2 per month took care of those limits.
Ive come to use Citadel washes on some things. They worked fine on Warhammer minnies, work fine on rail cars. Im not too keen on their paint, but the washes are very nice.
I was at a train show one day and as I stood watching an HO freight train roll by I became very jealous. It was 1950s era and every freight car was weathered to prefection. I wanted to talk to the club member that did the work but I couldn't get his attention. I must be losing my touch..... Weathering freight cars is something I've been afraid of. I do not want to ruin them. I want an expert to lead me through it step by step.
The best way to start out is with some old beat up equipment. Just to stimulate the gray matter, buy a dollar box car at a swap meet. I would recommend weathering chalks and a rattle can of medium matte or dullcote. Just stipple the chalks on let set and lightly spray (like a fine fog) the medium matte or Dullcote on the car. Like the results then grab that box car you paid to much for and have at it. Grin! To long a skirt...I got it. I love summers short shorts and of course short skirts.
I thought the short skirts were called belts. River Eagle, please tell us some more about how you got that effect.
more natural lighting here most of what you see is dullcote blush (applying alcohol to dullcote finish causes it turn white) the heavier scale and highlighted areas are done with just a touch of white added to the alcohol, can't say exactly the ratio as I just mixed it on the palette board with the brush. For a $20 Revell kit. I think it turned out pretty well. I have since decided that a display loco like this would be better tended, so I did a second one for the scene.
Here's something that showed up in my email today: http://www.mrhobby.com/store.php?seller=MikeRoseHobbies&pg=6898
Don't forget that alcohol is a solvent, and that it may have an effect on the underlying layers of finish or decal you're applying the wash over. It does have the virtue of evaporating & drying quickly. Using it on some of my structures very recently painted with acrylics using an airbrush, I learned the hard way to apply the wash to one surface and let it dry laying flat without going anywhere near it. I also learned the hard way that acrylics can take a very long time to dry completely, as opposed to appearing and feeling dry. Any time I apply a wash over acrylics I try to remember to take that fact into account too.
