What Is The Value Of Older HO Scale Cars and Locos?

glakedylan Jun 11, 2013

  1. glakedylan

    glakedylan TrainBoard Member

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    I have a fairly sizeable HO empire of freight, some passenger, and locos (steam and diesel) and have not done any modeling in the scale since the 90's (the steam being more recent Mantua purchases--c. 2010).
    A slew of freight cars are the old Athearn blue box, a lot of 40 ft. box cars, reefers, fair amount of 50 ft. box cars, many in PRR roadname.
    A number of the same type from Roundhouse.
    Some from Walthers (white boxes with blue stripes).
    Some are custom painted for Reading roadname (purchased from a professional, not customized by me)
    All the freight and passenger cars (PRR and Reading for the passenger) have altas metal wheelsets and are equipped with body mount Kadee #5's
    Locomotive have customized Kadees for realistic spacing between units.

    I may have to sell one of my collections and since I have many more structures in N Scale it makes sense to get rid of the HO stuff.

    Can anyone give me a sense of what value of such items would be before I decide how to sell them?

    It is appreciated!

    Peace,
    Gary L Lake Dillensnyder
     
  2. mr.dean

    mr.dean TrainBoard Member

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    Gary,

    One way to take advantage of eBay is to use it as a barometer. Type in what you have and see what comes up. Compare prices. This will give an idea of what the market might support. You should throw out the ones that you know are obviously over priced too. The type of coupler seems (to me at least) to really affect the pricing as people don't always want to pay to switch out couplers unless its a car or engine that they really want. Think about what you have seen at train shows as well. And, of course, the manufacturer makes a difference... Like Tyco vs. Kato or Athearn. But I am sure you knew that!

    I sold my HO equipment to club members and on eBay and I think I did fairly reasonable without over charging. Good luck!

    Dean
     
  3. BarstowRick

    BarstowRick TrainBoard Supporter

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    Value? Not much.

    I know what this is going to sound like but here goes. I would never use e-pay as a barometer for anything. There are guys who will get caught up in the chase and must win at any cost. False indicators at best.

    On another note: New in the box isn't something I would trust anytime of the day or night. Approach red over yellow. Let the buyer beware, is always a good place to start.

    To further answer the OP's question: Most of the older stuff isn't worth the original MSRP. There are buyers looking for the older cars but they aren't interested in paying todays prices for yesterdays train stuff. If I'm looking for a older train car or locomotive. It's likely I will use it as parts and I won't be paying top dollar. If you get my drift.

    The guys I appreciate are the ones who won't charge more then the original MSRP. Depending on the quantity I want, they will work the price back down to something realistic. Incidently, Athearn Blue Boxes are marked accordingly with a coded price. I saw where one guy tried to hide blue box code. It didn't work. Too many old hounds around that remember what they paid, back in the day. COL.

    I would encourage you to post what you have here on TB's swap meet. Not satisfied with the results then hit e-pay. I can't blame a guy for trying to get top dollar. Just don't expect me to be buying.

    I know I said to much....right? My two cents and I take change.

    Be :cool:
     
  4. glakedylan

    glakedylan TrainBoard Member

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    thank you both for your replies...

    one of the reasons I asked the question here was that the prices on eBay, especially for Stewart and Atlas diesels seem to be all over the board from below $50.00 up to near $200.00 or more.

    also, I would think that going with already switched out couplers (for Kadees) and wheelsets (for Atlas metal) they would yield a bit above box price? no? not looking to make a fast buck or sell anything for more than its real value, just need to add to income in a time of sabbatical for medical reasons.

    I suppose the best place to start is actually making a list of inventory in excel as a spreadsheet to be able to know exactly what I have and then start piece by piece.

    not sure why, but I do not find myself willing to trust those "buy whole collection" ads in the back of the MR magazines.

    thanks, again!

    peace,
    Gary L Lake Dillensnyder
     
  5. BarstowRick

    BarstowRick TrainBoard Supporter

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    Gary,

    Sounds like you just answered your own question with regard to e-pay.

    The HO Stewart, locomotives should bring a higher price but not much more then original MSRP. Atlas locomotives should bring a good price but again back to MSRP. Stewart and some early Atlas loco's were the first of a line of Kato Chassis' built into the shells. They should drive a better price. It went over so well that Kato moved to producing their own locomotives. Today, some modelers have found it difficult to convert to DCC and are getting rid of them. Doing what else...you got it, putting more on the market and driving the price down.

    Having the Kadee knuckle couplers on any loco or train car will bring a better price... from this buyer. The other knuckle jobs I wouldn't give you (expletives I can't use here) .10 cents for.

    When pricing something always start high and be prepared to work back down.

    I know what this is going to sound like...I switched sides. I don't recommend selling by the "Whole Collection". I have a friend that buys this way. I can't believe what people give up and for how little. Scratching my head every time I see him do it.

    What I would suggest is that we respect (as much as possible) each other's collections and values. To ask for and or pay as fair a price as can be afforded. Clear as mud yet? Grin!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 11, 2013
  6. JNXT 7707

    JNXT 7707 TrainBoard Member

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    Gary - you have a few perspectives now. I won't counter either of them but be aware that ebay is a fickle animal. Sometimes in your favor sometimes not, depending on the phase of the moon, if a bidding war starts, or ... people just aren't buying.
    As a seller, it is confounding when people won't even nibble at a price that I've set way below what an item is realistically worth. As a buyer, it confounds me when ANY item I'm interested in - no matter how big a piece of junk to 99% of the market - is lit up by hordes of bidders who will stop at nothing to get it.
    I think it CAN be a good barometer for generally judging a market for something, just don't bet the house on it. And, also be aware that if you have a pretty long list of things to sell, ebay does have tiny little fees that tend to add up over the long haul.
    Personally when I'm buying on ebay, I look for the lowest price possible and bid accordingly. Sometimes...rarely, but sometimes...one can hit a score on something when it slips by. Occasionally though, I will bid higher when I have something very specific in mind. Modelers like me don't really care if it's painted a specific road or not either - I am looking for a specific locomotive or piece of rolling stock which will be stripped and repainted.
    So good luck, and be patient....
     
  7. YoHo

    YoHo TrainBoard Supporter

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    I cannot and won't speak for eBay, but I spend a fair amount of my rolling stock budget on used and new old Athearn, MDC/Roundhouse and Walthers and I have a few nits to pick with my good friend Rick.

    You can get list price. It just depends on what the list price was when you bought it. At swap meets, I see built Kadee equipped shake the box going for between $5 and $12 depending on the specific cars with maybe a dollar more for metal wheels. However, the downside is that in my experience, only the more modern stuff really moves and it sounds like you're mostly flush with transition era equipment. There is an absolute glut of that, so if you were at a swap meet, I'd recommend no more than $7 a car. Walthers, maybe a dollar more. As for engines. The Stewarts might do ok at a swap meet, I'm not sure where I'd price them. Same with atlas. If it's Kato drive or newer, I'd start in the $50 neighborhood, if it's. Old Roco stuff, then less. Athern, if it's narrow hood, then $20-$30 depending on condition. If it's wide, then $qp-15. Now, at the swap meeting, you'll. See these for more, but at the end of the day, they'll still be on the table.
     
  8. glakedylan

    glakedylan TrainBoard Member

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    Jerry
    Yes, my experience with eBay is the same: I have been selling non-model railroading items for some years, as an aside. and it seems things get relisted several times with the littlest of interest in someone bidding or buying, and when I eye something I would pay its value for, the bidding wars zoom in and there it goes!
    it is a very iffy way to provide income
    thanks for sharing!
    peace,
    Gary L Lake Dillensnyder
     
  9. BarstowRick

    BarstowRick TrainBoard Supporter

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    Hey, now don't be poking this old bear. LOL

    Finding what might be a fair price for one of us may not be so for another. It's tough to decide. The family jewels, our old train stuff....it isn't.

    You can't sell sentiment and love for an item. Flipside of that some guys and gals buy for sentimental reasons and love. I had that when I was a kid and what I wouldn't give to have it back. Grin!
     
  10. glakedylan

    glakedylan TrainBoard Member

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    thanks all...your collected replies are helpful and I am thankful to each of you!
    sincerely,
    Gary L Lake Dillensnyder
     
  11. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Sounds like a good plan.

    Those buying in such as fashion are either looking for stuff on the cheap, or to re-sell. If reselling, they want you to be a wholesaler. They'll talk about what it takes to turn it over, stuff that sits and doesn't sell, as a lever to cut price paid to you. Looking some times at as little as 20-30% of any real value...
     
  12. mr.dean

    mr.dean TrainBoard Member

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    Just remember as I said when using eBay... compare prices. I don't list anything or buy anything without seeing how many of the exact same item is already listed and at what prices. The other guys are right that you have to be careful because eBay can jump all over the place on prices... but you can get an average.. hence using it as a barometer. Of course you adjust that with some common sense! LOL

    The idea of making your list is the #1 thing to do. Then you can compare from train show prices to eBay. Or however you choose. I want the best price, but I don't want to ask the highest price, for something I want to sell. LOL Keep it fair. Same goes for when I am buying.

    Good luck.
     
  13. James Fitch

    James Fitch TrainBoard Member

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    I agree with Mr. Dean - Ebay can be useful to get some idea's on prices, but like anything, you have to realize some prices are out of wack there and consider those "outlyers". I've been in the hobby since the 1970's and been watching prices of many HO items on Ebay for the past 10 years and much of the prices are in the ball park. It's just like anything, you need to know your product, what the MRSP was and what a reasonable discount price is, and what a decent "used" price is.

    Thats always the case, but so far I've had decent luck buying on Ebay. There are always going to be a few bad apples out there.

    There are a few dafties who think cause something is old it is "RARE" and ask rediculous prices. I saw some Rio Grande hoppers recently which were mis-labeled as Walthers when they were clearly Concor or McKean, and had loads - the asking prices was $25 - sorry - they were foobies to start with. I even messaged the seller letting him know they were not Walthers and he said he didn't have the time to do the research. So it helps to know your product. You often see trains clearly over priced on fleabay, and HOI as well. But, it will more than likely sit there and collect dust.

    Yeah, it's always great to try to get top dollar, but how much time do you want to sit on stuff, how many months or years. Best to be realistic and set prices that the stuff will actually sell for in a reasonable amount of time.
     
  14. JPIII

    JPIII TrainBoard Member

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    Toy trains are cheap on evilbay. Quality stuff costs a bit more. One *neeeds* to know the difference.
     

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