I was "super detailing" this unit it looks ok but I'm overall not happy with it as well as it not being finished, I was hoping to repaint and re decal it as one of the BN's silver units. sorry about the huge pictures, not sure how to shrink them.
I use FastStone Photo Resizer You can download it here...and its F R E E...not a trial version !! http://download.cnet.com/FastStone-Photo-Resizer/3000-2192_4-10319476.html Simply...straight forward program...
Since I couldn't use MS Picture It on my Windows 7 machines I tried out several different free programs and I highly recommend PhotoScape, which is also freeware... it has proven to be the best I have used for fixing problems with images as well as resizing them to the size I would want... http://www.photoscape.org/ps/main/index.php
For years I was perfectly happy with the Kodak Easy Share software that came with a camera by them. Then Kodak dropped all support for the program and eventually the program became corrupted on my puter and could not be fixed. After some messing around I ended up downloading Picasa 3 which is free. One of the features I use is the crop. It gets rid of all the background around the subject nicely and also zooms in on the subject depending on how far you crop it. Other refinements include adjusting the lighting and contrast plus color. And I just stumbled on a way in the program to reduce the picture size in terms of giggle bites. But so far for a freeware program it satisfies my very basic needs. Camera also may be a slight issue for you. I use the close up setting for a lot of individual photos (that's the Tulip emblem on the cameras settings) and the fill light function on the flash if used at all. I can get down to about three inches from the subject with that setting if I need to show something like a cracked gear. I am basically a low tech guy and I still haven't found all that can be done with Picasa 3.
Probably not quite to the point of being "super-detailing" yet...........is that a Kato? Love to see it as one of the silver and green versions.......I've never been a big fan of the hockey stick scheme, so it's hard to get too excited.
ummmm, BLMA parts, I'm having a hard time telling if this is sarcasm, a serious question, or if it's being rude for the fun of it.... my apologies for trying to learn and better my skills, is this going to turn into a bash fest? I've already had two modelers insult my modeling because it wasn't up to their par, the odd thing was that they didn't show any of their work before or after that bash fest. MRL Dave it's a Kato, I will be repainting it to look like BN #9950 which was all silver with green and white stripes on the nose. it will also be renumbered #9950, after that I'll be purchasing another #9942 to take it's place. I need to install the side grab irons and roof grab irons, as well as the ones down the length of the unit.
sarcasm. I saw you did use way too much glue to glue the parts on. try to use an old airbrush needle, a toothpick or similar to apply the glue. less is more. Peter
ah, ok yes the super glue was my fault I couldn't find those toothpicks I know I have.... my parts box is a mess.
A couple of suggestions for you. Check the small tool catalogues like Micro Mark and get yourself a surgical steel dental pick. Sharp points at both ends with usually one end angled. Sharp enough to make a nice hole in your foot if dropped. Or a fine point sewing needle. Next a old flat glass clock face or a glass coaster that cold drink glasses are set on. Glass because a single edge razor blade can remove the ACC drops that you put on the glass after they dry. Now the rest of the story. Typically when drilling for grabs and other details you drill through the shell. Place a small drop of ACC on the glass, mount the part, and then dip the tip of the very sharp object, in my case the dental pick, in the ACC to get a small drop on the end. Apply from the inside only. No ACC shows when it sometimes will swell slightly when it cures and the part will be nice and snug. A thin ACC has less swelling than a gap filling or thick ACC and I have all three in my adhesive selection and the thin gives a smaller drop for this type work. Also the thin has a good capillary action. After the glass gets filled up with small hard dried drops of ACC I use a single edge razor blade to scrape the glass clean watching where my fingers are.
If you are stripping the shell before the repaint, the glue won't be an issue.......it's on the original paint and will come off when you strip the shell.....or if you aren't stipping, you need to put a coat of primer on and that will fix the glue. I would definitely avoid putting silver over the BN green paint. But with that said I'd hold off on grabs and such till the last thing before you paint. I couldn't tell from the pics if that was glue or paint.......it didn't really bother me. Like I said before, you'll probably never be totally happy with your own work........I never am, but that's what keeps us moving forward and improving. You don't drop into this hobby knowing everything or in some cases much of anything...........for me the learning and experimenting is a big part of the fun. I got your package today ......Thanks. The weights dropped right in and made a BIG improvement.
Ok, thank you John and dave. enjoy them Dave! I was planning on stripping the paint with 91% Iso Alcohol.
