Mark, yup...ya got bristled over something I didn't write. My suggestion was to sell your TRACK...not your trains. That's the reason for offering suggestions for trackwork that accommodates pizza cutters, such as the hand-laid code 40 PCB trackage. However, I got a burr under my saddle a few years ago and sold off ALL of my engines and cars that didn't fit my Dec. 31 1956 cut-off date...including some brass engines that really hurt (several Overland GTEL Turbines, Overland Centennials, all my Atlas GP30's and one brass GP30 B-unit!) Luckily, some of the engines had appreciated in value, so I made a lot of money off the effort, which I sunk back into buying DCC, new period-specific rolling stock and lots of Athearn Big Boys and Challengers. Although I have fewer engines and cars now, I have plenty to run my operating scheme and I save even more money nowadays because I'm not buying anything that doesn't fit my era and location. As to gauge and wheelsets. Wheelsets on cars are almost always gauged properly nowadays. Back when Kadee was making N-scale cars, their wheelsets were three piece affairs (two rib-backed wheels and a metal axle) and sometimes got out of gauge. With the advent (years ago) of the one-piece plastic wheelset, the gauge problem was solved for rolling stock. THEN, metal wheelsets started becoming popular, and they are multi piece affairs again. Although I really like the appearance of several of the new lo-pro wheelsets (Fox Valley and BLMA) there have been some problems with them, including being out of gauge and the axles being off center. Lately, since I'm slowly replacing my plastic lo-pros with Fox Valley and BLMA metal wheelsets, I initially checked every wheelset for problems, but that was taking waaaay too long, and I decided just to automatically check them by running them through my tight-clearanced turnouts in a train. If they don't go through smoothly, I'll pull the car, check the gauge and correct the problem. It's a lot quicker than checking every wheelset. Truth is, you probably don't have to replace the vast majority of your cars' wheelsets because of gauge problems. The reasons to replace nowadays are more related to appearance than function. However, I do check every wheelset on my locomotives before running them. Some are a lot easier to fix than others, and I find that the loco that's in-gauge out of the box is very rare. Most have got at least two wheelsets that have problems, the main problem is being too narrow. I fix all of them by using one of my large jeweler's screwdrivers to gently pry (prise) the offending wheel outward, placing the tip of the standard screwdriver blade on the axle and using the chassis or gearbox as a fulcrum. Sometimes they move gently, and sometimes they "pop". I'm lucky if I get it right the first time, and I usually end up having to push them back in a bit. Steam engines need more care because you don't want the driver to twist at all, which will get the engine out of quarter. Also, spoked drivers are fragile, so you HAVE to keep your screwdriver right on the axle. Really difficult brass models sometimes require disassembly, which my Key FEF's did. I took several hours tuning them up, but they ran exponentially better after I got done. The effort was worth it. Until you start building your own turnouts, if everything runs fine through your RTR turnouts, then don't worry about properly gauging everything. You can build your turnouts so that their clearances are not so fine (like RTR turnout manufacturers do) and more engines will run through without adjustment, but they tip and flop around a bit because of the loose clearances. However, your turnouts and motive power will run much more reliably and smoothly if the turnout tolerances are relatively exact, and your engine's wheels are exactly in proper gauge. TTYL Bob Gilmore
See, that's why I don't bother getting upset online - it's much too easy to mis-read/misunderstand. Thanks again, for all the great input. Was busy playing with my new Zephyr yesterday - hope to file some rails over the weekend. I already see a problem with one of my factory turnouts with DCC which was glossed over by DC. Though the frog point is plastic, the frog rails are close enough that one loco's wheels bridge the gap on most trips through the diverging route. Can't wait to build my own so I only have myself to blame.
Mark, always remember that wonderful adage as you build your turnouts, "If at First You DO Succeed, try to Hide Your Astonishment." :startled:
