RustOleum Red Primer

Anyone use Rustoleum Red Primer? I shot some onto a whit metal casting and it seemed to work very well. It was not to thick and didn't hide the details. I like the color for use as a base. I am going to use the "Hairspray Technique" to make parts of the casting appear rusty.

Should work fine with acrylics over the top.

Rustoleum is made by RPM, parent of Testors. Many people, myself included said they would not buy RPM because of the Testors decision. Well, good luck with that. Home Depot only has Rustoleum spray. Didn't see a can of Krylon in the place.

Taking the emotion out, the Testors decision was business. They weren't selling enough paint to justify keeping the factory open. Now that a lot of us have had to look elsewhere for paint, it turned out that the Floquil and PolyScale paint weren't very high quality compared with other brands on the market.

I also use the Rustoleum camo colors for various projects including painting tree trunks.

 

I found that primers tend to work a lot better than regular paint when comes to 'rattle-canning' a car or locomotive. The Rustoleum camouflage line of paints also works well. If I could just find flat yellow in a can, I've got it made.

 

Pardon my ignorance, but what's the "hairspray technique?"

Jim

 

I'm absolutely furious with this primer..I made a dozen mold masters a few weeks ago.I made them on MDF board.I use it to seal the woodgrain on top before I attach the masters.I've been using cheapie primer I've been getting anywhere,auto parts stores,Wally World,ETC,for years.All of a sudden,this 'STUFF" was all I could find.Takes 10X as long to completely dry,costs 3X as much,is much thicker,harder to spray,and lo and behold,after I poured the first mold,THE MASTERS PULLED RIGHT OFF THE WOOD!!!!! The stupid primer didn't stick to the MDF!!! My absolute contempt for RPM couldn't be more absolute..I use a spraygun and real paint for EVERYTHING now..If I need something like Rotsoleum,I use Ace brand..

 

I found this here youtube video on hairy spray technique

[video=youtube;7CNFdEZnQN8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CNFdEZnQN8[/video]

wyatt

 

You could paint with a regular gloss or satin yellow that you like, then go over that with a coat of dull coat or flat clear to give the same effect.

 

Thanks for the vid, Wyatt. Very cool technique.

Jim

 

I've used Rustoleum to spray about 100 Atlas ore cars with great results so far. The paint appears to be thick when you first spray but it quickly dries "down". The advantages to spraying with Rustoleum that I've seen are:

1. Very quick set-up and tear-down. No prepping paints, cleaning the airbrush etc.
2. No need to strip paint off the original models.
3. Especially when painting in batches, the spray can is very handy as I set up a jig to paint about 12 cars at a time. You aren't tied to an air source.

Now that the initial test lot is done, I've got about 350 more cars to paint once the weather warms up.

 

I certainly use Red and Black Rustoleum primers all the time with zero problems or issues.

 

I will start a new thread. It's a way to show peeling paint.

 

I have used rattle cans to paint my locos and have had great success. I use a semi-gloss for the shell and then use dull-coat to seal everything when I have painted and decaled. Not sure what the fuss is about using spray cans, there's more than one way to skin a cat.

 

My experience with spray paints is in vehicles where I want a shiny finish and on some brick buildings where I want a flat finish.
For n-scale, I have a concern about whether the pigments are milled finely enough to get an n-scale finish.
I have seen photos of painted items from n-scale that have a grainy look that I think is from large particles in the spray. Perhaps I am wrong about the cause, but I do not like a grainy look on a locomotive or rolling stock.

 

I have used spray can paint on N Scale structures with good results. I find the process that works best for me is to keep the can above and away from the surface by about 18". That way the mist is fine and even. I have had some problem with paints ON SALE/REDUCED COST from WallyWorld which I think can be blamed on an expiration date. I have not painted any locos or cars this way. That has been by hand with really thinned down paint.
Respectfully,
Gary