N Scale Modular Layout Designs

Jerry Tarvid Jan 31, 2014

  1. Jerry Tarvid

    Jerry Tarvid TrainBoard Member

    739
    16
    16
    I have constructed bench work for quite a few layout design types. I have used a 4 X 8 island design, a 9 X 9 donut duck under design, a 9 X 13 walk in design with return loops and a 9 X 13 walk in design once around with lift up bridge. My new challenge is to create a modular design that I can easily take with me when I move (upcoming move eminent). I have promised myself a minimum 20 X 22 foot area for a layout. I will knock out walls if I have to!

    I have learned that I do not want a duck under, lift bridge or return loop layout design. That seems to leave me with an island design. I also want a scenic divider incorporated into the layout, so that I cannot see the entire layout at a glance. I do want to use a grid design with risers to support the sub road bed.

    My thought is to create 30" X 96" frames with cross boards on one foot centers using 1" X 4" lumber. I would then bolt the two units together length wise with a scenic divider sandwiched in between. This would give me a 5 X 8 foot section that could be joined with other 5 X 8 foot sections to expand the layout to meet whatever I want. Initially I am looking at a 13 X 16 foot "L" design.

    Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Team DTO

    Team DTO TrainBoard Member

    27
    0
    13
    Your plan is similar to mine. If a residence change is in the foreseeable future, build modules for easy transport and expansion of your layout. Just remember when gluing down foam board, make sure the panels separate where the modules are bolted together. Plaster cloth used for scenery can then easily be cut using a razor knife.
     
  3. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

    67,560
    22,735
    653
    That is a good sized space to have for a layout. I agree about duck-unders. My days of having those are long gone.

    30 by 96 inch sections are getting fairly large. Any thoughts on weight went done? Moving them will easily require at least two people, and getting them through doorways, or around any corners?
     
  4. modle-a

    modle-a TrainBoard Member

    51
    2
    6
    I agree no more duck unders for me.
     
  5. Jerry Tarvid

    Jerry Tarvid TrainBoard Member

    739
    16
    16
    The amount of space available is more than I will use. It is unlikely I will expand beyond the "L"; however I would like to keep my options open.

    I currently have space for two sections back to back. I will only set this up for temporary use and expand once I move. The legs, scenic divider and temporary plywood top will be removed for moving. The frame will be equal to (5) 1" X 4" X 8' boards. That is roughly 25 pounds total weight. I should be able to tilt the sections up and carry them easily through doorways and around corners. Essentially there are two pairs of cross braced legs, two 30 X 96 sections and a scenic divider 24" X 96". Everything bolts together and can be easily unbolted for transport.

    This of course is all brain storming at the moment. Everyone is welcome throw stones at the idea to see if it holds up.
     
  6. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

    67,560
    22,735
    653
    As to weight, I was really wondering what that will be, with scenery, wiring, etc, added. I once had an NTrak module which was 30" by 96". There was no added cross bracing, so depending upon what your top surface is, it might add up. After scenery was added, yikes! And moving it around, when negotiating a corner, through a doorway was a big task. The end result was good, but there was a bit of cussing to get there.
     
  7. robert3985

    robert3985 TrainBoard Member

    841
    57
    14
    You've got plenty of square footage in your initial design for a nice N-scale model railroad. Your idea to make it sectional is a good idea, allowing you to work on it progressively until you get enough room to construct the entire layout.

    I've done the same thing and my modules/sections are portable. I take much of what I've constructed to two or three shows in the Utah/Wyoming/Idaho area to buckle up with a friend's sectional portion for a total of 10 sections.

    Since we're always setting up and breaking down...and always setting up right after a show in our respective layout rooms to work on our LDE's for the next show, we've got a pretty good idea of what's a maximum size for being able to be moved by one full-grown man as far as weight and dimensions are concerned.

    The "standard module" we've decided upon (and built) is 3' X 6'. The 3' depth allows a lot of scenic possibilities and because we model prototype scenes (LDE's) it's good to have that depth if we want it. However, the layout as it's put together isn't designed to be fully "modular", but is "sectional" with most sections being dedicated to each other and only able to be set up one way.

    I use open benchwork that is pretty minimalistic with two L-girders running the length to which 3/4" plywood "end-plates" are gusseted, glued and screwed. Since these are meant to be taken to shows, each section has integral folding legs fabricated from premium pine and 2X2 clear redwood baluster lumber with "glides" on the bottoms which gives us +/- 1" of vertical movement to compensate for uneven floors. The open benchwork allows me to use splined Masonite subroadbed made from 1" strips glued together with yellow carpenter's glue. Yards and industrial areas have 3/4" plywood subroadbed. All the subroadbed is supported by clear pine risers, which are glued and screwed to cross braces which rest on the tops of the L-girders. After all my track is in, wired, tested and run, I install a scenery base composed of various thicknesses of extruded polystyrene foam...usually 2" or 3" stuff.

    When set up at home in my 25.5' X 10.5' media room, it's an island that's a truncated L-shape with the sections butting up against each others' backs, which is where the skyboards form a view block so I can't see the opposite side of the layout.

    Since you don't have any need to buckle up to another modeler's modules/sections, you can make your sections any length you want. However, for good lumber use, I'd add 6 inches to your maximum depth and consider section sizes of 3' X 6' if you have room.

    Just for the hell of it, I did a quick drawing of your sections if you chose to do 3' X 6' sections. The double track mainline means nothing other than the smallest radius is app. 24.5" with some curves being a greater than 100" radius. Lots of room for both scenery, a city, big industry, a substantial yard...lots of stuff. The double skyboard is supported by 2 X 2's and basically there's 2' added to length and width...but you gain a lot and I guarantee you that you can more easily maneuver the 6' long sections (even if they're 3' wide) than 8' long, narrower ones.

    [​IMG]

    I envision the benchwork for these just like my benchwork (I've designed a 40' X 40' layout using 6' long sections with virtually identical benchwork), which is not ultra-light, but it's ultra sturdy and I can manage each one of my sections by myself, although I prefer to have my grownup son assist. He and I can really break our present configuration down quickly and set it up equally quickly, but when I'm setting it up at home, I can pretty easily do it all by myself, but it takes longer.

    Here's a Sketchup drawing of my basic benchwork which has been posted a couple of times before. Materials are premium pine dimensional lumber with ends made from 3/4" sanded one side CDX plywood, with the 2X2's being clear redwood baluster lumber. Joints are glued and screwed and my integral legs aren't shown in this drawing and the Masonite fascia is also not shown:
    [​IMG]

    Here's a photo of my Taggarts LDE which is a non-typical section because it's a transition section between my sections and my co-conspirator's sections. You can see I put the fascia on before I install my subroadbed, then cut the terrain contour after the subroadbed and track is in. I have the track plan very precisely planned before I start cutting lumber:
    [​IMG]

    If any of this interests you, please get in touch because I've got benchwork plans and modular standards that can be adapted to different widths.

    Cheerio!
    Bob Gilmore
     
  8. Jerry Tarvid

    Jerry Tarvid TrainBoard Member

    739
    16
    16
    Thanks BoxcabE50 and Bob for some excellent food for thought and design ideas. My first thought was to build a couple of sections, bolt them together, throw a plywood top on and temporarily run some trains and continue building more of my structures. There would be no scenery added until after the move. However now you have me thinking of additional moves.

    My thought on the 8 foot length was more for the temporary set up giving me a little more play area; however the 6 foot length has more benefits as does the 3 foot width. The "L" girder construction may be overkill for my purposes. I was also thinking of sandwiching in a 2 foot tall plywood sky board (unsupported 18 inch above the deck) that would serve both sides of the layout.

    Thanks for the awesome visuals Bob. It is apparent I need to do more homework and consider more options before drawing any conclusions.
     
  9. Kenneth L. Anthony

    Kenneth L. Anthony TrainBoard Member

    2,749
    524
    52
    I know of one OTHER possibility, albeit extreme. Vertical entry. Build your layout with a stairway just a foot or so away from a wall, so that one or two tracks can run between stairs and wall. Then trains can run all the way around walls with no break. David Barrow did this with several versions of his Cat Mountain layout.
    Two catches: you have to have a house specially built to fit the layout, and your body needs to be physically capable of climbing up and down stairs.

    Or even more extreme construction: an elevator in the middle of the layout.
    But in all of these, you can't see entire layout at once, unless you are a schoolteacher and have eyes in the back of your head.

    Oh, still one more design that avoids duckunder, liftbridge or return loop design-- a multilevel layout with a helix at EACH END.
     
  10. Jerry Tarvid

    Jerry Tarvid TrainBoard Member

    739
    16
    16
    I am looking to buy a raised ranch style home with walk out basement. The problem I see is I would have a duck under / lift bridge at the door to the walk out basement. At this point anything is possible. I love the elevator idea!
     
  11. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

    67,560
    22,735
    653
    Do you have a definite home in mind to purchase? If so, is it possible to post a dimensional sketch showing the room outline, with doors, windows, etc?
     
  12. Jerry Tarvid

    Jerry Tarvid TrainBoard Member

    739
    16
    16
    Unfortunately nothing definite at this time, just some rough ideas based on a few look sees. Our rural home will have to sell first and that could be months away.

    Here is a design using Bob's 3 X 6 section size on a possible Eola Sub track plan. Comments welcome.

    [​IMG][/URL][/IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 1, 2014
  13. RBrodzinsky

    RBrodzinsky November 18, 2022 Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter In Memoriam

    5,685
    2,780
    98
    Jerry,

    Are you going to stick with Unitrack? Besides a fixed modular layout, you may also want to consider at least a couple of the modules meeting a standard, in case you ever want to join up with an n-track or Free-MoN group
     
  14. Jerry Tarvid

    Jerry Tarvid TrainBoard Member

    739
    16
    16
    Yes, I intend to use Kato Unitrack. I realize I could make my modules do double duty; however I see this as a semi-permanent installation. If I become interested in n-track or Free-MoN, I would build a separate module as you did.
     

Share This Page