So I have a N scale layout I would like to do on a HCD. See image attached. There is a total of 21 switches in the layout. I can estimate what the track will cost, but have no idea where to begin pricing a DCC unit and everything else that goes with it. Any advice or resources would be appreciated. Thanks, William
As a happy customer...I would start here... http://www.fiferhobby.com/html/digitrax_lenz_bachmann_e-z_com.html and ask questions as they unfold ;-)
Starting out, your turnouts do not have to be controlled by DCC. I run unitrack switches on a DCC layout still using the Kato DC power pack I started with. I only drive the turnouts from that. Never connect the track power feed to the power pack once you have DCC installed. The power to the switch motor doesn't end up on the track, so it's safe to run the turnouts from there. I like having the turnout controls separate from the cab when I'm pushing cars around a yard and have to make several throws in short order. I'd change my opinion rapidly if I had a room size layout, but for a door, you're not running back and forth anyway. It's cheaper to go the DC route as Kato's got the motors in the turnouts already, but you should really consider what you want to do in the long run with it. If you think you'll convert over to all DCC, then it may make more sense to only operate the rearmost turnouts remotely for now via DCC and manually operate the closer turnouts til the budget allows for more decoders. EDIT: Though looking back on it, I bought the bulk of my turnouts in the various "V" variation sets because it ended up with the pricing usually working out so that the turnout controllers were almost free. Don't forget to budget for wire and electrical connections. The kato feeders are easy, but in the long run it's cheaper to learn to solder (and I used to HATE to solder). You just should plan on running, at a bare minimum, a power feed on each side of each turnout. Many people who are permanently mounting unitrack go through the effort of soldering a set of feeders to each section so they don't have to worry about joiners getting loose over time and having to tear up scenery to fix it. I don't see any reverse loops or other bits that would call for special wiring or components. To start, if you've got all the track, you really just need the decoders for your locos and a decent starter kit for DCC, but it doesn't have to be an expensive one. If you are also going to drive your turnouts from DCC, you will need stationary decoders as well. Make sure they are ones that specify that they can drive Kato turnouts. The power of the system you'll need is more based on the number of locomotives you are running. N scale in theory takes 1/4 amp per loco, but figure a 1/3 or even 1/2 for power budget as track gets dirty, etc. If you have sound locos, they'll need more power. If I recall correctly, with Kato turnouts, you don't need to really count the turnouts too much into your power budget as they only draw power while they're being thrown, but the turnout decoders you use may change that. One thing I see in that plan is use of the adjustable unitrack right next to turnouts (in the lower right is one instance). I've had nothing but bad luck with that arrangement. It's fine in between straights, but some wheels can have problems with it coming off of turns. Just adjust the order of the track so that it's straight-adjustable-straight-turnout.
Roughly right: $150 to $200 for a starter DCC system (I use NCE Power Cab), then $25 to $40 for a decoder for each loco to be converted, assuming that you do your own installation and that the loco isn't already DCC-ready.
NCE Powercab is about $150 for command station / throttle, plug-in panel, and power pack. As you said in your email that you want two operators able to roll then another throttle (a smaller, non-command station version) is about $80. A decent loco with DCC decoder already installed runs about $100. Rolling stock runs between $15-$25 per car for better quality stuff. Kato Unitrack turnouts are about $25 each (the #4s used in the design also come with short sections of "extra" track). Kato Unitrack turnouts already have a switch machine in them which you can hook up to a toggle and separate wall wart power source. Or, give the small size of the layout, you can just use your finger to throw the little rod next to the points. Four pieces of track runs about $9. (These are estimates taking into account various prices for various pieces and shipping). The plan posted above was intentionally overstuffed to show options. David K. Smith's rendering of Dave Vollmer's Juniata Division uses less track and can be seen here. By having a loco run the mainline and another dedicated to switching the local industries, you can also remove 1/2 or more of the double main, further reducing turnouts and track.
Looking at the layout, you would need to determine what you want to control via DCC on the layout. For example, you can use DCC Stationary Decoders for all the turnouts and have programmed routes. If you go the NCE route, they have a stationary decoder for Kato turnouts. You will need about 19 "ports" to control the turnouts. The Crossovers are tied to the same stationary decoder port. Decoders for locomotives run the gambit from about $20 to over $100 if you opt for sound. Board replacement decoders are about $30-$35, while small wired decoders like the Digitrax DZ125 are around $20. Cars and the locomotives are easy to figure out, just use the advertisers here to get an idea.
Go on The bay and buy a Bach-mann E-Z-Com-mand D-C-C setup, find out what you like/dislike and then move up to a better system. Everyone here will suggest a different, (I use L-enz myself) system. The upside of this is once you choose the better system, you can return to The bay and sell the Bach-mann system for virtually what you paid for it in the first place.
I went through this whole process over the past year: planning for a similar Unitrack door-size layout, decide on DCC system, switch control setup (DCC, vs Kato vs 701k vs homemade panel), etc. As for DCC, I came to the conclusion that the NCE Powercab was the best value, and I've been totally satisfied thus far. I wasn't much of a fan of the Unitrack switch controls, so I wired my own panel. It was one of the more fun projects on the layout. If you're interested in that, I can lead you to a tutorial. To save some the hassle, rather than soldering feeders to each leg of #4 turnouts, you can wire to the underside power routing screws. I made a brief tutorial about it here: http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/group.php?discussionid=1875&do=discuss To create the Unitrack version of the Juanita Division, you will have to modify the #4 turnouts. These two problematic locations occur where the three #4 turnouts are attached at the lower left of the layout, and the four #4s at the lower right. The issue is the Unitrack roadbed will prevent the turnouts from being attached in this configuration without trimming said roadbed. However, Anyrail and other track planning programs will allow this configuration. I have not seen someone do this modification to #4 turnouts, but it may be possible. Just giving you a head's up. Good luck with the layout! Noah
I started out thinking I would do a 4x8 layout but then was advised that the HCD is a better choice because you can reach across the board. Makes sense to me. DCC sounds fascinating and I wanted to be able to run at least 2 trains at the same time.
I want to thank all of you for your information and kindness - beyond my expectations Noah I would like to see the tutorial on wiring your own panel for the switch controls. Again, thanks to all, William
Just looking back on it, it's not exactly a tutorial. But you can see my trial and error process which should help if you decide to build a panel. It's roughly pages 46-50 of my layout build thread: http://www.thewhistlepost.com/forums/kato-unitrack-users-group/14563-new-guys-layout-46.html I just George Stillwell's BCD circuit. It's a switch mechanism that can be built with Radio Shack parts (cheaper to purchase parts online of course). If you are serious about going this route, I can private message you George's email. If you ask him nicely, he will send you the instructions to construct the circuit. He simply asks that it not be published online. Here is how my panel turned out:
