I have a small ultra soon cleaner for juwels. I use water and a drop of dish wash cleaner. Verstuurd vanaf mijn GT-I8190 met Tapatalk
I fill the tank with water and use a small plastic cup filled with dishwashing soap and water. Simple green works really well. the nice part of using a plastic cup is you don't have to switch out the fluid. I also use alcohol for motors and metal parts in a different cup.
I've noticed the engines are louder with the oil making me wonder if it is the best choice. At higher speeds sounds like a MTL F7 (coffee grinder). I'm going to re-clean the engine and try the Teflon grease from Labelle. I'll let you know if it is a better solution.
The car manufacturers do this too, use thick grease to make the car sound good when new and when the grease is displaced or replaced at service it's a different story. But I don't think that was a design indentation from AZL, I guess the Chinese just used something they found cheap around the corner... Regarding noise: that's the difference between a $30+ Swiss Maxxon motor and a $2 Chinese can motor. But we can't complain, the purchase price of the enginer is also $30 less....
would have paid extra 40 - 50 for a nice quite engine. That's what made the first run of SD70 so great, nice runners and whisper quiet. not sure about the new run of the SD's but going buy the GP9 they will be grinders not too bad when at slow speed thankfully
wonder what a minimum order would be to get a bunch of the swiss motors. the question would be is it the same motor for the GP9,SD70 & 75i, and the gp38-2. If so I would think there would be enough people wanting an upgrade. Just doing the math I would need 20 with all the up coming releases. Also need to question the F7 in design currently. I don't really buy the MTL version because of the grinding would be sad if the AZL one has the same sound not to mention the new Marklin/AZL E8
The grinding noise in the F7 from MTL is not just coming from the motor in the unit. As to getting a quiet engine I took a MTL GP chassis when they ere available as a unique item and I shortened it as has been shown for creating an SW1200 or MP15, and using that method to reduce the Geep frame to fit into the F7 A or B, If you created an FP7 shell you do not have to shorten the Geep chassis at all, to go under an FP7 or FP9 shell. I have seen the F7 chassis reworked with a can motor, but I felt it was more work and not as much of an improvement as a shortened Geep chassis was. With the shortened chassis you still can DCC with the same drop in boards, and you can mu with any of the Geeps then also. With the F7A and B shells you only need to shorten, so if you are going too shorten the Geep chassis choose then end with the smaller flywheel to shorten.The conversion creates a very robust frame because you are using screws to hold the pieces together not glue, so electrically it is not altered and Mechanically it is as strong as the original. I consider it a relatively easy conversion, using a snap saw a couple of small metal files a dremel tool and No 62 drill bit and a tap for 00-90, You can use a larger drill bit to create a counter sink for the screw heads to sit into so a nice neat job when done. David K Smith had a good article covering this topic.
So, You do not have to attach the worms direcly to the motor axis? /Frank Verstuurd vanaf mijn GT-I8190 met Tapatalk
The worms and flywheels are pressed onto the motor shaft to start with, in the original versions of the Geeps they were hard to remove without breaking the motor shaft as the motor shaft was ceramic but, for several years now the motors have come with metal shafts, so it is quite easy to remove and remount with a wheel press or pin press.
several links http://jamesriverbranch.net/project_28.htm David K smith's article on the changes. http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?144283-Feasibility-SW1000 Zfrank started this thread and there are a host of pictures and text over 9 pages or so.
Okay catching up on this thread. First, the new run of AZL GP7/9s are not grinders like the MTL F7s at low speeds. We have test run all of the new run and found them to be quite quiet. Some can be chatty, but we think with running, this will go away. At higher speeds, you may hear more noise, but this is once you start getting to the higher voltages. Not all locos are like this, but many do have a personality. Yes, these are the same motors used in the 38s and SD70s (new run). As for the motors, don't look for AZL to go back to Falhuabers. They are just too cost prohibitive. Frankly, I really like the performance AZL has with these new motors. I have been testing the first generation and new generation chassis packages together and they just plain work great! But if you really want the other motor, you have options. The single best option, purchase one of the first run GP7s. The UP, PRR, C&O and Nickel Plate GP7s are still in stock, all have the Faulhabuer motors, and the price has been reduced to match the new run. This makes these a real value!! If you really want this package, I would buy one of these and swap shells with the new run. Or this sounds like a great aftermarket upgrade. It might be reaching out to someone like Don Fedjur to see if he could come up with an upgrade package. Good tips on the grease. AZL has been working with the manufacturers to reduce the grease levels, but this did not seem to happen in the new runs. Just keep running these locos to work in the grease and even it out. Keep the electrical contacts around the trucks clean. I am also using Conducta Lube at these points when I service my locos. Rob
The motor in the earlier GP7 was a Faulhaber 0816 N 008 S K789. I only found one listing online for this motor at 49.03 euros (~68 USD) when buying in bulk. At that price I'll stick with the $2 chinese motor.
At the end of the day, we really did not have a choice. Even the Maxon alternative was getting very expensive in price. At the same time the "cheap" Chinese motors were getting better and better. It was a simple decision: stick with Swiss motors and RAISE the price by $100 MSRP, or go with an Asian motor, get 90% of the performance, and LOWER the price by $25 MSRP.
Also the Swiss motors have to be imported into China. It is alway much cheaper to use local produced parts.
