My old LL Es & PAs and SD7&9s (made since 1994) have a mechanism that does not look modern or high tech. Granted they were inexpensive and run great. Now most LLs seem to have the split frame construction. --And their prices have gone up as well. Does anyone know if LL is upgrading to split frames on everytning? I hope they do, and I hope they have on the DL-109s. I just bought 2 and even at discount they are $79.00 for a single unit. I understand that the DL-109 may not be a big seller, hence the price. Now I'll have all the old Diesel Electrics except the Shark Nose. I want one but just can't buy a Bachmann. (next post)
Life Like was bought by Walthers. It likely the prices will go up and the quality will remain the same . Life Like had two categories. Standard and Proto N with split frames, more detail, etc. The new DL-109's are Proto N. Walthers is retaining the Proto N name. Walthers proto N is good stuff but it isn't Kato. They want Kato prices for it which ain't gonna happen. LMAO.
None of the L-L releases delivered since the Walthers buyout have had a higher price. It is unlikely that new products will come in significantly(beyond inflation) higher. Walthers has been producing product using overseas factories for years in HO and some N w/o being out of the norm for pricing.
I respectfully disagree. I have two past Walthers N scale freight cars that I paid $10.00 for. They are no better than $5.00 Bachman cars. I built one Cornerstone plastic structure kit. The windows are cast in to the walls. Painting them was as difficult as installing an operating float valve in an N scale toilet. I spent the same kind of money on Kibri kits and got seperate window castings.
The LL GP20 used to have an MSRP of $65. The "new" version recently release had an MSRP of $95 which is Kato and Atlas country. The only physical difference between the old GP20 and the new is the knuckle couplers - nothing else changed. 30 more bucks for couplers and inflation? I don't think so. Making matters worse was the fact that not only did the 65 list GP20's street around 29-39 bucks, many got unloaded cheap on Model expo and LL website in clearence sales. I can't imagine they (Walthers) are selling very many of these.
The old LL GP-20 was blown off for $16/loco last spring. I picked up a bunch(my only LL diesels) for the chassis' to use in cheater boxcars. Stay cool and run steam........
I had just gotten into N scale when LL put those on the web. I bought two UP models not knowing just what a great deal they were. By the time I discovered what a great deal they were they were gone. I left mine alone because they are gorgeous as they sit and MT couplers snapped right in. I would not pay $65 for them though. According to a Walthers press release, they are discontinuing their Trainline products. It's pretty obvious Trainline wasn't moving and overpriced because I see aged yellow Trainline boxes sitting next to bright new Athearn and Atlas boxes for the same kind of money.
I'll probably use one of the LL GP-20's as a loco on the JJJ&E. I have to install MT Z scale couplers and mill the mill for a decoder. The rest of the LL GP-20's are designated for other purposes namely "cheater box cars" with decoders installed on the frame as well. Stay cool and run steam.....
I bought a bunch of LL GP-20's to put under Bachmann F-7 shells. Also for cheater boxcars/tenders. In the F-7s, I did not have to mill the frames, as the decoders fit along the sides. I expect the same for the cheaters. The real GP-20 wheelbase is one foot longer than the F-7, so things don't quite line up. I'm so impressed with the IM F3s that I've discontinued the F-7 conversions.
I will add that the extra space in the GP20/F7 conversion can be for added weight. I did one that way and it will pull a lot!
I don't have any Bachmann F-7 shells to try that with. The cheater box car projects are enough to use all my LL GP-20 chassis' Stay cool and run steam....
The GP20/F7 conversions are some of my heaviest locos because I could still get real lead weights rather than some alloy. I'm not worried about stressing the motors, either, since they are identical to the ones used in LL's monster-pulling FAs, FMs, and Erie-Builts. BTW, milling these frames is not difficult with a dremel. There is a barrel-shaped toothed cutter (not a grinder) that makes very quick work of the alloy used. Also makes a complete mess, with metal chips everywhere. I wear eye protection and a mask when cutting.
Pete: I always use eye protection when I work with any power tools especially the dremel. Stay cool and run steam......
