The Mysteries of Terminal Strip Wiring

Is there any book - model railroading, electrical or other - out there that explains the "hows, whats, wheres and whys" of connecting wiring from power packs, turnouts, control devices, accessories, etc. to the various screws and sections on a terminal strip? The same for using jumpers - or not using them?

I'm gradually figuring it out by trail and error, though I'm hoping someone has written about it somewhere. For some mysterious reason, all of the otherwise excellent model RR wiring books I have by Sperandeo, Mallery, Westcott, Atlas and Selby leave out this important detail. The You Tube videos I've found also don't do a good job of it.

Thanks for any insight you can offer!

 

Kalmback books had an book called How to wire your model railroad by Linn Westcott.

Don't know if it is still in print- This is for DC. Lots of good practical wiring and the likes.

There should be some books about DCC wiring too.

 

I agree with woodone, this is an excellent book, and is useful for DCC as well as DC wiring. It isn't in print any more, but is available on e-bay.

While it's not a book, the web site Wiring for DCC is an excellent guide for DCC wiring.

Tim R.

 

Not quite sure what the question really is. When to use terminal strips? Or how to physically attach the wires?

 

Based upon the other thread, it seems you want to understand the mysteries and vagaries of said terminal strips.

Usually, they are two rows of unconnected (electrically) screws into metal nuts.
You use them to expand or connect.
Very useful when you have sections of railroad you can disconnect.


So...when I use them (automotive, radio, submarines, whatever) I decide what it is I want to do electrically.
Let's say I have filtered DC power in on two wires, either fixed or variable.

Now, I want to run that power to six different places. How do I do that?

Get some spade terminal ends to fit your terminal block screws and wire.
(hint: I try to avoid crimp type. I buy them without the cheap plastic bits)
SOLDER your wires in for long-term, trouble-free wiring!

Now. Make jumpers, oh, inch and a half long, doesn't matter as long as you can bend a 180 in the wire and still get the spades onto adjacent screws.
Yes, I know you can find jumper plates, and some terminal blocks come with them, but mine are generally salvage units without such.
The jumpers have a spade on each end, for one in and six out, you will need 38 spades, I think.
Put one of your inputs, let's say red, on one end of one side along with one end of one jumper.
Now, run that other end to the next screw, along with one of the six outputs of same polarity. Continue on that one side all the way to the end, and your one polarity is done.

Now, repeat on the opposite polarity along the other side of the block.

This gives you the ability to change things rapidly, troubleshoot by removing wires one at a time, and simply place the probes of your voltmeter to a screw on each bank to see what the actual voltage is...under load.

One in and six out will require 7 ports, so you'll probably need an 8. Make sure there are blank holes inn the ends for mounting with wood screws to the underside of your benchwork.
That said, some of my salvage units have the ends broken off. No problem, I just abandon the end ports, remove the machine screws, and use wood screws through those holes.

Dave

 

Dave,

Thanks! You've captured the gist of what I'm after, specifically your excerpts in blue below.

"Based upon the other thread, it seems you want to understand the mysteries and vagaries of said terminal strips....

Now, I want to run that power to six different places. How do I do that?....

The jumpers have a spade on each end, for one in and six out, you will need 38 spades, I think.....

Put one of your inputs, let's say red, on one end of one side along with one end of one jumper. Now, run that other end to the next screw, along with one of the six outputs of same polarity. Continue on that one side all the way to the end, and your one polarity is done.

Now, repeat on the opposite polarity along the other side of the block."

 

Those do work. However, one all metal block per leg. And, if you're using small wire, remember these are designed specifically for solid core or single conductor wiring of usually 14 gauge or larger.
You will need to strip, twist, solder (tin) and trim any wires before using those strips.

However again, if you have a big box of plastic or bakelite terminal blocks.....no need to buy metal ones.

 

This is how I used a terminal strip to connect the DCC breaker board to the track busses. I went with a TE Connectivity Flexi-Block brand terminal strip, because they offer quarter-inch quick disconnect terminals as an accessory. The unused terminals at left are for a future accessory bus that bypasses the breakers. Could have done the same thing with solder, crimp connectors, or even wire nuts, but using the strip keeps everything organized and easy to follow.