Okay guys have some questions on track. I will be buying flex track for my upcoming ho layout. i want concrete ties on it whats best brand flex to get. next part of this question is do i HAVE to solder the pieces if i stagger the rail joints on the curves. Next who makes the best bang for the buck turnouts avaible premade don't want to go the handmade ones route. and which is best roadbed to use cork or foam woodland scenics roadbed. this is on a base of 2 inch foamboard thanks guys for the help.
I've been happy with Homabed from the California Roadbed Company. He's a little slow sometimes, but it's better then cork and far superior to foam, in my opinion.
Well, I don't know much about concrete ties as I'm not a contemporary MRRer. But, contrary to some peoples' opinion I have been happy with Atlas code 83 Custom Line switches and their flex. I think they look the most like USA RR switches. Lots of guys are going to the British, Peco switches due to the spring action of the points. But if you are going to employ manual ground throws ( such as Caboose Industries line ) the spring will only get in the way of the ground throw's action (some are rigid while others are sprung). Most engines will roll smoothly through Atlas TOs. But, due to certain wheel-base lenghths (usually short like an 0-4-0 steamer or Plymouth Diesel ) a stall-out over the frog is common at slow speed due to the frog itself being un-powered/cold. But this is easily remedied with 3-4 different methods of wiring the frog to have the correct polarity depending on which route is taken through the TO. The Hex Frog Juicer can handle this for you ( assuming you are in DCC). For some unexplainable reason Altlas puts a black coating on the frog, leading many to think they're plastic. It rubs off easy. The old code 100 switches are plastic, so keep well away from Atlas code 100... For curved switches, so far there are still only Walthers (originally Shinohara code 83 and Lambert code 70...) I think Atlas does make concrete flex. The correct way to deal with curving flex is to lay 2-3 sections out, dead straight, and solder them end to end (with joiners). This way when you do curve them there are no kinks; a perfect shape occurs. I suppose if you still want to stagger them (though there'd be no need to now) you can slide the movable rails. But it's still the same story; solder them straight, first...One drag about the cork v Atlas flex: I always wished Atlas would put those punch-out-able spike holes anywhere but dead center. If you use spikes to hold it until you ballasted (which can be years off) , the spikes wind up going into the crevice between the 2 pieces of the cork and don't grab it well. I did it that way anyway. It's not that bad. .......Mark
I second the statement on Homabed. I started using it over 25 tears ago when I started my layout and love it. I started hand laying track and turnouts in code 70 and finished with Shinohara code 70. Excellent to work with, holds spikes well and is easy to ballast.
with the homa bed can i laythat onto foam board my layout has a 2 inch thick layer or pink foam inusoation board on it as a scenery base how would i attatch the homa bed to this because it looks like most of you guys either nail ir or screw it in place would that work if i used long enough screws or will glue hold it good enough thanks and how do i figure otu how many pieces come in a pack of this homa bed stuff there sites a little lacking in detail on that thanks.
Gluing it should work fine. I've never done it, mind, so you might want to wait for a response from someone that has. I'd guess a latex adhesive would be best. The Homabed website is a disaster. You can find a bit more detail if you click the "Specifications" links that appear alongside many of the product links. Cheers, Jeff.
Foam board wasn't around when I started my layout. I glued the homabed to the plywood cookie cutter type base. I did use a couple of small brads to hold it in place, but I guess you could put it down without tacking it down. Some of this layout is over 25 years old and I haven't had a single problem with any of the roadbed. Not only is it great for hand laying track and turnouts, it's great for flex track and just about any kinds of turnouts.
yeah i like the ida of having a solid roadbed to attatch the track to so i may order a small package of the homabed and test it out and see whati think thanks again now to figure out which brand of track to go with thinking either atlas or micro engineering flex track any opinions from you guys which is better thanks.
I have some left. Let me check and see how much. I have finished laying my track. Probably can't get back to you until the weekend.
okay that would be awesome and no rush im still working on benchwork but shoudl have that done somepoint by the end of next week if all goes well.
