I have completed the wiring for DCC on my new HO layout. I have 12 gauge bus and 18 gauge feeders soldered to the tracks. Now I wonder if I can test that there are no shorts before I go onto the next step which will be to ballast. Any suggestions? I am electrically impaired so please be specific. I live far from the nearest train shop so I can't pop in to discuss.
most definitely I would not attempt any ballasting until you have operated the layout and removed any bugs in track work or wiring, you could place a ohm meter across the bus and you should read infinity ohms but i would recommend connecting the layout and running a locomotive over the whole layout
No! If you place the probes of an ohm meter on the two wires of the bus and read ZERO ohms, that indicates a short. If you read infinite ohms, then you do not have a short. Again, ZERO ohms indicates a short! Other than that, Paul's advice is solid. You should thoroughly test your trackwork and wiring before you do any ballasting. Once trains are running reliably without derailments or electrical problems, then proceed with scenery and ballasting. - Jeff
lol im so sorry I'm a fully licensed electrician and signal Engineer lol how could i get that wrong, of course a zero reading would mean a short circuit I edited my original post, thanks Jeff
Ignoring the fact that I now need to pull out my meter and validate what readings I get ... Your turnouts could cause shorts when thrown so test with all combinations of thrown not thrown for any sidings. Do you have any reversing loops? They cause additional complexity for testing.
Not sure if this pertains : I believe when people say 'shorts' they mean an 'open' or shortage (lack of) of current. A lack of current as, say, a section of track where a loco stalls for no apparent reason, but later found to have been a bad/loose rail joiner, is an 'open'. A 'short' (short circuit) is current being routed too soon, taking a different path, causing a polarity clash or overload/circuit breaker (if exists) opening to prevent melting or fire. Something like that, anyway. If OP wants to check for voltage loss in a section of track ('continuity check') he can solder a wire to the side (cathode) of a car brake lamp bulb, then touch its tip (anode) to one rail and the wire to another rail, same side of track or opposite rail. If bulb doesn't light, it's an 'open' ( most likely loose rail joiner or power-routing switch (turnout) points not contacting stock rail). But maybe you folks above are on a much more technical discussion than this.. Anyway, just for the halibut, am I right ?... Mark
The downside of your method, Mark, is if there is a short circuit already. There will be no voltage to operate a lamp. Otherwise, it is a sound method of checking if everything is ok wiring-wise.
If you use two 12 volt car bulbs in series you will have a tester that is designed to handle up to 24 volts. The one I have for HO draws about 1 to 1.5 amperes so it finds power problems that a voltmeter will miss. Bob
I would indeed test at this point, using the means already suggested. Best to find out now, then move ahead.
Yes test away . Look at this website he describes the quarter test very easy and simple to do . lots of good info there. http://www.wiringfordcc.com http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track.htm#a16 Hope this helps, Bob
