Micro Trains 1021 couplers are T-shank style low short profile coupler, for locomotives and cars with limited mounting area, used on the Atlas 2-truck Shay, among others. These are in my opinion the most difficult to as assemble couplers I've ever encountered. Has anyone ever actually successfully assembled one of these? If so, I'd really appreciate knowing how you pulled it off. Or, has anyone ever seen these for sale ASSEMBLED? http://www.modelbaneteknik.dk/n-scale/kobl/mt1021-e.pdf
If you don't have their coupler assembly kit, you will quickly find what is meant by "an exercise in futility". I don't think you could assemble them without it and even with it, it takes patience. Following the instructions to the letter and using their self closing tweezers, it can be done.
Thanks Burlington Bob, The frustrating thing is that in spite of having a coupler assembly kit (Katee jig as well as Micro-Trains coupler tweezers), the 1021 seems to still defy assembly. I'm not sure about any differences between a Micro-Trains jig and the Kadeem one that I have, but tweezers aren't that helpful in that they don't prevent the two halves of the "t" pieces from pivoting within their grasp. As far as the jig goes, it provides no means of positively gripping the unique gearbox geometry of the Micro-Trains 1021. I solved the spring's instability problem by super gluing the end of the spring to the inside of the gearbox, but I'm still missing something.
Yes, I have the jig. Mine says Kadee #702 rather than Micro-Trains, but they appear to be identical. The deal with the 702 is that it doesn't seem to have any provision for securely gripping the bottom section of the 1021's gearbox, whereas it does nicely grip couplers like the 1015/1016 type. The geometry of the 1021 is different as well as having a "t" type 2-piece knuckle assembly.
Steam ghost, Sounds from your comment like you've been there-done that with the MT 1021/1022 couplers. Could you share any more insight on handling these? I've got a 2-truck Shay with one end missing all but the box and screw and the other end in tack but "drooping".
The "weld" is an important step when you build any M/T couplers. A little spit or a speck of lube grease on the spring ends helps hold the spring in place before closing the box lid. The spring really wants to escape. Looks like the original couplers are 1021/1022. I'd probably replace the empty box with a completed 1021/1022 rather than try to wrestle with the shay. On the drooping one, check if the coupler box is solidly together and see if you can feel that the spring is still in place. If it won't couple well, then replace that one too.
Thanks Steamghost. The original couplers are 1021s and that's what I'm trying to assemble. I'm still finding it impossible to keep the 2 halves of the coupler to remain aligned at the "t" so I can slip into the spring inside the gearbox. My MT coupler tweezers just won't keep them aligned. Do you know a source for the 1021 ASSEMBLED?
I know this is an old thread buuuuuuuuuuuutttttttt ........ It does seem to be better than starting a sort of duplicate. So I've got some Life Like PA1's, E7's and E9's. Going by Micro Trains coupler conversion listing the 1021 / 1022 kit is the correct couplers to use. I've fitted an 1128 to the rear coupler pocket of an E7 and it fits great. I still have to do the pilot coupler and I'm guessing either the 1021 or 1022 is the correct one to use. So do these actually fit and if so what is the difference between 1021 and 1022 ? Is one longer than the other ?? I have tried Joe at Micro Trains but not heard back ....... that's OK cause they have problems not of their making so it's all good.
