Walthers 933-2829 130' modern turntable

phantom Jan 7, 2016

  1. phantom

    phantom TrainBoard Member

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    I'm having a real bad time with my 933-2829 130' modern turntable. I spent a few hours learning how to program the thing. I finally got it programmed and stopping at all service tracks. At this point I'm feeling pretty good. So I pull out my favorite steam locomotive on to the turntable. The turn table takes its time spins around and lines up with its stall. I run the loco in the round house and back out on the turn table. I then try to turn the turn table and it either twitches or just dose not move. So I pull the turn table checked the contacts. There in good clean shape. None are bent. So I then reinstall the turn table in the pit. Turn on the power, same wont move or goes just a tad and stops. So I try to zero it. It wont do that either.
     
  2. RBrodzinsky

    RBrodzinsky November 18, 2022 Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter In Memoriam

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    What are you using to supply the voltage to the control? I found that I had to push my supply to the high end of the Walthers specification, and not stay right around 12V
     
  3. phantom

    phantom TrainBoard Member

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    I was using an 18 V DC power supply. But after doing some research on line and reading a bit. I changed to an old TechII power pack. I'm using the AC terminals and the turn table has sprung back to like. Funny the instructions said I could use AC or DC. But it looks like it likes AC better. I will have to reprogram it though. Its off by quite a bit even after zeroing it. But at least it moves now. I'll post more after I reprogram it yet one more time.
     
  4. COverton

    COverton TrainBoard Supporter

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    Voltage is one thing, but the capacity of amperage throughput is at least as important. For my 10 year old 90' version, the one that is not called "DCC" but simply built-up and programmable, they recommended a range of voltage from 12-18 or 19, I forget the higher number, and it had to be able to supply up to, and to be limited at, 0.5 amps. Could it be that your power supply is limiting the amperage somehow? The motors of any kind are meant to draw what they need for the task, but if there is a limit and it needs that full 0.5 amps, you won't get the performance if it is less.

    Also, don't assume the mechanism is properly lubed, or that some schmutz of some kind isn't in the drive gears at the end of the bridge. You'll have to figure out how to get access to the drive mechanism and check for lubes that are still soft and slippery, but also that they are free of pet hairs, lint, dirt particles, etc. Trust me on this if you believe nothing else I tell you...when they say to vacuum the pit regularly, especially prior to each use if more than a couple of days have passed, they were being honest and up front. I found out myself that, despite my rigorous cleaning per instructions, within six months the gears had pet hairs, bits of dyed ground foam from adjacent scenery, grit, lint...it was really quite dismaying to see that my best intentions and efforts had only bought me six months of good performance.
     
  5. phantom

    phantom TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks! The returnable came back to life! The power pack swap did the trick. I had to reprogram it. Now it keeps the programing when you shut it off and works just fine. I'm so happy. I was thinking I had a $250 manual operating turntable. Thanks for your input!
     

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