Peco Code 55 or Micro Engineering Code 55 track?

I'm trying to decide on which track to use on my layout. Here are the pros and cons of each that I have found so far:

Micro Engineering Code 55:

-Pros
Realisitic tie spacing and look
Realistic looking turnouts
Flex track holds it's shape

-Cons
Limited availability
Poor selection of turnouts
Turnouts can be more chalenging to wire

Peco Code 55
-Pros
Wide variety of high quality turnouts
Heavy duty track

-Cons
Unrealistic tie spacing
Flex track is stiff and can be difficult to work with

What would you use and why? I would like to use the same brand of track and turnouts for my entire layout.

 

Greetings Chris

okay, possibly biased reply here, but I have just been through the same decision process as you and chose code 55 Peco for many reasons, none of which appear in your pros and cons

Let me list them and I am sure others will put up counter arguments for you to consider.

1) Peco code 55 will join with Peco code 80 with no modifications, so for where I have a couple of tight radii curves in hidden areas, I can use set-track fixed radii to save having to bend flexi-track into tight curves. (Actually also connects with various other makes as well if you want something really wierd like a 3 way turnout... I have a list somewhere)

2) Peco code 55 is much more robust than M/train.

3) Peco code 55 will run all the wheelsets I have with no modification, even deeper flange stuff because of no chairs on the inside of the rail.

4) Peco point moters clip directly to the point, thus making it almost impossible to get a bad linkage or offset drive that doesnt quite change the point.

5) Peco code 55 is useable from the box with no modification for DCC.... (this is contentious, but this will be the second DCC layout I have built with Peco track and have never modified any pointwork and never had a short or a problem

6) Peco produce track plans of their pointwork full size, so you can lay it all out on the board full size and check what fits before you buy a singler piece of track.

Phew.. okay, there you go.. my reasons for choosing one of your options.

Thought I would include a picture of my last layout using Peco 55 so that you can see that when ballasted and scenicked, the tie spacing isn't anything like so noticable... in my opinion anyway



This was done with a mix of concrete and timber sleeperd rail.

Hope this helps

Regards

Graham Evans
http://www.colony.co.uk

[ 20. January 2004, 21:25: Message edited by: Graham Evans ]

 

Thanks Graham. Im going all DCC on my layout so it's nice to hear their turnouts are working out well for you. I was planning on using a slow motion switching motor, but the Peco point moters sound interesting. How noisy are they? How do they function when compared to say a slow motion switching motor? Are they DCC compatible?

Thanks for the help.

Chris

 

Based on that fact alone, I'd go with Peco.

I gotta admit that the ME pre-weathered track looks GREAT, but given all the info I gathered when I was researching this very topic, I'd recommend the Peco.

- I've been told that the ME flex is harder to work with than both Atlas and Peco.

- I've been told that ME turnouts are problematic (electrically and otherwise).

- From my shopping around, ME track was considerably more expensive than Peco and Atlas.

- ME is hard to find.

- Peco C55 is pretty much bullet proof. You can't hardly hurt it.

- When ballasted and weathered, you'll never notice the European tie spacing of the Peco track.

Anyway, ultimately it's your decision, but I'd recommend Peco.

 

Hi Chris

The peco point motors are solenoid snap style. They snap positively and are designed to operate in conjunction with the over-centre spring built into the point. Additionally, you can get a switch which mounts on the motor which is used for switching the frog polarity as the point motor changes and is a break before make, so basically everything you need is all put into one package, mounted directly under the point and hidden in a hole in the baseboard.

I am planning to use the new Digitrax DS52 stationary decoders on my new layout which according to the documentation can change 2 peco point motors from one adress at the same time.

Yes, they make a snap when they go, but I have always liked that, because its not too intrusive, and it means I can get a positive aural feedback to know they have changed, even if I am not looking at them

The point motor switches, because they are break before make are wonderfully compatible with DCC.

To my mind, the benefits of positive location, switch options and reliability make them the only choice for me. I have tried slow motion, but the tolerance required to make sure the points have thrown completely, added to the fact that I never saw the things moving anyway led me to stay with the snap action

Regards

Graham Evans
http://www.colony.co.uk

 

I should first off let u know i am a fan of ME..... My reasons being, the track looks good, and realistic as well... and i have had just as many problems with peco turnouts as ME.... So i would say its an even match.... I would say peco too in the case because it is cheaper..... But if u plan to use ME flex track... I would use ME switches too, because it is one big hastle trying to put PECO turnous with code 55 ME flex track............ Ryan Schauf

 

Is there a difference between insulfrog and electrofrog. There is no insulfrog for code 55 for turnouts. Does the electrofrog still work with dcc without modification?
I realize that I will need to use a reverser of some type but does the turnout need modifying?
Jeff

 

HI Jeff

I think there are some code 55 insulfrog crossings and slips, but the normal pointwork is all electrofrog.

I, personally, only ever use electrofrog for all trackwork, working on the basis that every little helps.

The way I lay the pointwork is that at the diverging end of the point I use insulating rail joiners on all 4 rails. On crossings and slips and scissors I use insulated rail joiners on every rail. Then I put in droppers to my main power bus from the unit itself.

On a point, I switch the polarity of the frog by using the Peco SPDT switch PL13 mounted directly to the point motor. For crossings there are three methods, one is to mount the Peco DPDT switch to the point motors leading to the crossing and use that to switch the frogs.. second, mount a seperate point motor under the boards in a mounting base with a switch on it that throws at the same time as the switch leading to the crossing, or with DCC.. use certain types of auto reverse unit on the frogs to do an auto switch as per Loys Toys site recommendations... (care.. I haven't tried this yet and its only certain types of auto-reverse unit... I will be trying this in a few weeks )

In fact, although this all sounds a little like overkill, it is, in fact, just good practice and is identical to the way I used to wire with DC block control as well. It does mean its much harder to get problems cropping up in the installation.

Using these methods, I have not changed anything about the code 55 delivered points, crossings or slips that I have used on DCC, because even though the polarity of the switch blade is opposite to that of the stock rail, Peco 55 points open wide enough that unless the wheels are already so far out of alignment they are about to fall of the rail anyway, they cannot short. If you do get a short, it isn't really the fault of the point, its the fact that the item of rolling stock was an accident looking to happen anyway


Hope this helps

Regards

Graham Evans
http://www.colony.co.uk

 

Having spent some time looking for Peco track it occured to me: Is there any packs for a certain radius (eg. 15 inch radius whole curve). Or do you essentially use flex track and lay it all out by radius tools!?
I have switched my mind multiple times about Atlas and Peco 55.
Jeff

 

Jeff, Greetings

It is rumoured that Peco may be bringing out some fixed radius stuff in code 55 this year.. they call it set-track but theres no guarantees.. however.. they do fixed radius set-track in code 80 of 9" and I think it is just under 11" radius in code 80.

It is possible.. because of the design, to connect peco code 80 directly to code 55 no problem so it is possible, and in fact I have done this quite successfully, to use code 55 on the visible portion of the layout, and then, if you have a tight radius curve in a tunnel, or off-scene, to connect set-track 9" radius curves to this.

Anything bigger than those 2 radii however, and yep, you have to radius out flexi-track.

Regards

Graham Evans
http://www.colony.co.uk

 

Thanks Graham that answered my question. Is it very hard to radius out flex track? I was about to start that project on my previous HO scale layout before we moved.
Just another newbie question. Thanks for answering previous posts.
Jeff

 

I have heard some find working with ME to be difficult as has been stated above. I have laid 1/3 of my layout with Peco 55 (about 120 feet) and I can't figure out the problem with the stiffness of Peco. I haven't had any problems. I just work it into the curve I want gradually rather than all in one shot. Also it will hold much of the curve while you are working with it.

If you have any problems with Peco turnouts it is because you are relying on a mechanical joint at the points to the rail. If you wire your points, you'll eliminate much of any problems you will encounter with Peco turnouts.

Both insulfrog and electrofrog will work fine with DCC.

 

Hi Jeff

Nope I find it easy Perhaps thats just experience though.. Mostly, you just ease it to your line marked on the board, or the centerline of your cork etc and pin it gently.

One tip... if your making a curve, especially a sharp curve, you will be amazed at how much of a visual difference it makes if you make a transition curve... let me explain, and if I am teaching you to suck eggs, I apoogise.

I have a home made radius layer for tracklaying... its a piece of wood an inch wide with a nail driven in one end so the point comes through and holes drilled in it at distances 9" 12" 15" 18" 22" 24" etc up to 30". The holes are the right size for a felt pen to fit in.

Now a simple curve of say 15" you would put the pen in the 15" hole and the nail at the centre and draw a curve as required. When the train gets there it does an instant transition from straight to 15" and looks odd.

If instead you draw the first 2 - 3 inches at 24" then next 2 - 3 inches at 18" then got to 15" and the same at the other end, the train moves into the curve more gentlyand never looks as odd going round the 15" as it would on a pure 15" curve.

Once you have the line, you have the centre to either lay your cork on or your track direct.

This is a huge improvement and is only possible with flexi-track.

One final tip.. if you pin track down.. drill the sleepers first and dont put the pins in to tight, otherwise you risk narrowing the track guage as the ties form a slight V and thats the last thing you want on a curve. Personally I Pin the trac lightly, ballast the track with white glue/water mix and then when fully dry, I pull the pins out.

Hope this is of interest

Regards

Graham Evans
http://www.colony.co.uk

 

You Could Always use Unitrack .

[ 27. January 2004, 05:04: Message edited by: amtraktim ]