Was that some of that Life Like junk that we got several years ago> I have pretty much trashed all of that and replaced it with code 55. </font>[/QUOTE]I'm not sure, but I think I built the loop before we did the big track order. (And was it Life-Like or Model Power track?) Remember, it's one of the original MARRS modules, built just after your sample one back in 1998. Besides, it wasn't the track that was the problem, it was me trying to be clever when I laid it. I staggered the joints in the rail, on the theory that if it was good enough for the real railroads it was good enough for me. But all I managed to do was create a spot where the inner rail wasn't supported properly by the ties. The gauge at that spot eventually tightened to the point where some equipment was starting to pop off the tracks. Fortunately, since I never really ballasted that module properly, it was an easy matter to cut out the bad track, sand the glue off the roadbed, and use a short piece of 19"-radius sectional to fill the gap.
A few years ago our NTRAK club set up in a new building that was to become a railroad museum. We provided our own lighting as the overhead lights were just a string of 60 W bulbs. Work was still in progress around the layout and we became used to a little saw dust every now and then. The building is about 50 feet from the BNSF main line so there was a lot of shaking going on every time a train passed. After clamping everything up tight we got things to stop shifting. The big problem came when they installed the central heating unit and decided to try it out. We had track popping up all over the place.
Ya know guys, this thread is an atempt by some future girlffriend of mine to discourage me from ever getting started in this hobby. Yep, that is it. She knows I'll be overwhealmed by the dificulty and give up. Well she is wrong. I am going to use everything I learned here and more to lay the perfect track. (and then I will declare world peace) /the wierd Gryphin gryns and hopes said girlfrined reads this and gives up before she ties. Thanks for the information guys. I will be very careful in Laying, Shimming, Wiring my track.
I guess I'm out of the loop... My c55 Atlas track does very well, (it's definitely the rolling stock that has problems) but I've never dealt with temperature change. From what you guys are saying, it sounds like my 42' of absolutely continuous flextrack would turn into one helluva pretzel if it was exposed to any change in climate. So what's the verdict, or the technique exactly? Would spacing the railheads a bit within each railjoiner of each flextrack joint solve the problem?
If the track is already in place and all soldered together then all you need to do is get a Dremel tool [easy way] or a Zona saw [harder way] and cut your rail at appropriate intervals. Just be sure that any rail cut has its own power feeder. We do not use rail joiners in our set up so each piece of flex track has its own set of power feeders.
I have grasped the bullet firmly between my teeth and ripped up about 3/8 of each of my two mains. I cleaned out the ballast, scraped off the roadbed that was formerly affixed with Liquid Nails and will now relay. I am increasing two turn sections to 11 from 9 3/4 on each main. I will properly superelevate the outside of each turn. I am adding an additional turnout at the end of one long side of the layout to allow for expansion when I finsih all on this layout. I had to shorten the width of a support for upper level where the outside main makes a turn so it could make it without hitting now non existent tunnel wall and entrance. Phew.
Mine is not perfect as shown by my Bachmann 4-8-2 steamer. However, what I do like about my track work, I do not have derailments. I can run for hours forward, back-wards, up hill, downhill and everything stays on track. I use Atlas C55 with low profiles and based on the fact stuff does not derail and the engines run very well, I am happy. It may not be the best looking, but I like to have trains running while I do other things, stand and watch, work the yard, or just let my mind wander and enjoy. I use this hobby to relax and decompress. The price for not having to put cars or engines back on the track.......priceless.
My trackwork perfect? Ha, due to desperation and shortage of funding, im using sectional track that moses got in his first train set. No glue, using brads. Ive started drilling the ties on each end and in the middle n the outside of the rail as an experiment, think its gonna work. My greatest concern is being able to remove it as I can get my hands on flex track.
I have run on Ntrak layouts almost exclusively. Anyone familiar with Ntrak knows full well the story of the notorious bridge tracks and the ski jump effect at the ends of modules. The truth be told I have seen some pretty bad track in these area but it worked. Trains stayed on the track and it did not seem to matter if cars had low profile wheels or not. What did seem to matter on really long trains was having the train occupying three 90 degree corners at the same time. The train would stringline at the middle corner almost every time.
While cleaning track this weekend, I discovered some spots that left me thinking: what was I thinking (or drinking) when I laid that section? Dagnagbit! Maybe a hefty application of ballast will fix it?
Regarding the expansion problem; My layout is located in the third bay of a 3 car garage (inland San Diego) where the temperature varies from 40f to 105f so I only solder the flex track that are located on the curves - nothing else. The layout is DCC so I make sure that there are plenty of feeder drops but I don't do every piece of flex. If I soldered every piece; it wouldn't be a pretty site at 105 F !!!! Brian
I too am using the third bay, which is separated by a wall, insulated, and heated/cooled. Temperatures at my elevation of 5800 feet typically range from about 10F to 90F. But the midsummer sun on the driveway outside the garage door can easily raise the concrete temperature to scalding, which I believe is about 140 F. Pinning the insulated garage door tightly to its frame with screws really helped eliminate a hot air blow-by during the summer. I've soldered only a few curves where I was having trouble maintaining track alignment. While I have broad curves (18 inch minimum radius) I also believe the Atlas C55 track is so flexible that rail joiners have held it aligned on these curves.
Since this is the "Perfect Track" thread I have a question or two. I have built 36 linear feet of NTRAK modules and didn't worry about perfect track. I don't think there is such a thing. Now I'm starting on a home layout and will be using PECO code 55 flex track. I have never laid any flex on corners. Any hints on how to make it easier would be appreciated. It will have a double track main with radia of 20" and 22".
I start laying the flex into the curve with a length of transition from straight to curve like described in the NTRAK manual. When I have the track temporarily tacked down on the curve to about 6 inches from the end of the rail I bend the remaining part around and trim off the long end with rail nippers. Then I let it relax to straight and remove any ties that stick out. Then I attach the next piece of flex with the rails straight. I clamp on some large alligator clips for heat sinks and solder the outside of the rails and joiners. Then I bend the track around and keep on tacking. I slip some loose ties under the rail joiner to fill in any gaps. It makes a nice smooth continuous curve that way.
"When I have the track temporarily tacked down on the curve to about 6 inches from the end of the rail I bend the remaining part around and trim off the long end with rail nippers. Then I let it relax to straight and remove any ties that stick out. Then I attach the next piece of flex with the rails straight. I clamp on some large alligator clips for heat sinks and solder the outside of the rails and joiners. Then I bend the track around and keep on tacking. I slip some loose ties under the rail joiner to fill in any gaps. It makes a nice smooth continuous curve that way." Straw- If I ever remember to reread important posts re: tips, I would save myself aggrevation. I did NOT follow your instructions and wound up with a soldered joint that was at less than a 1 degree angle, but enough to create problems with steam engines derailing. I will now rip up and relay for the THIRD TIME
My layout trackwork is NOT perfect. There are some areas I just have nothing but trouble. But, that's my own fault. My next layout will be better, using what I learned on the present one. As for curves, I solder a (straight) pair of pieces of flex together, on the workbench, add feeders, and install on the curve, drilling a hole to drop the feeders into. I find that pre-soldering feeders is easier than after laying. I cut the piece to fit, and leave a small gap for expansion. I have soldered ony about 30% of all my track on my layout. No expansion problems, and we see temps from -20 to 100 degrees in Cheyenne. The room is insulated, but sees direct sun in the morning to mid day.
davido posted: ".....have installed the loose rail on the inside ...." Is there really a preferred orientation to install flextrack? Loose rail in or loose rail out? (Innie or Outie?) Now they tell me! What's the usual problem you run into if you did it backwards? Regards Ed
I did the same thing on some of my curves. Check the guage. If it is okay, leave it. If it is underguage, which is what may happen if it is backwards, I would re lay it. In gereral, the larger the radius, the less it matters. Maybe some others have ideas on this.
Gotcha, but which way is it "supposed" to be laid, flexible side to the inside or outside of the curve? Why would one way or the other cause a difference in gauge? I'm concerned because I've probably got the smallest one of anyone here (minimum curve radius). Thanks Ed
