minimum feed track length

Another question from a new-by

The Marklin 8590 Z Scale straight feeder track is 110mm (4-3/8").
I am working on a layout where I would like to use a minimum feed track length.
I assume a 8590 can be cut to length, but, is there another way to attach the feed?

 

I don't use the feeder tracks. What I do is to cut down a piece of track and remove a tie from the middle of the track. I then solder the leads to the exposed rail where the tie once was. Once you flip the track over, you will see you can barely notice the feeder wires. Once you lay the track and ballast, it is very difficult to spot the missing tie unless you really look for it.

On another note, I try to run feeds about every 3' for better reliability.

Rob

 

Is there a practical need for the interference filter that comes with the Marklin 8590 Straight Feeder Track?

 

Good question. I am not sure. I don't use the feeder tracks and have no problems running the trains without the interface filter. I do use a Gaugemaster Electronic Track cleaner and have it wire between the transformers and the rails. I have been told to remove the filter if you do use the Gaugemaster, but since I don't have the filters, it is not an issue. Anyone know what the filter is used for?

Rob

 

As far as I now understand, the 8590 has a built in capacitor in order to reduce electronic interferences in radio or TV. It works by producing a small current flow between the two rails of the track. If the capacitor is installed, this is the reason that Gagemaster may not be able to detect a break in circuit that is caused by dirt.

Now-a-days the interference on digital TV should not be affected by a small electric 'buzz' if there is a sparking on the track. I am not sure about modern radios ... 'cause I only listen to them in a car

When Marklin started to make Z's thirty years ago this might have been a problem in Europe.

My vote, don't bother with the capacitor

 

Myself I soldered feeders to every track section (I'm using MTL flex) or turnout, on the joiners or directly on each rail. A lttle bit tedious but the result is here, I'm not experiencing the least voltage drop and my trains run flawlessly. In order to hide the feeders I drill a hole centered between each rail and I insert the feeders in it. As soon as the area is filled with ballast you don't see the lack of ties within the considered area.

Dom

 

The capacitor ('filter') was simply a way of trying to suppress transients generated by the Permanent Magnet (PM) motors as their brushes connect and disconnect across the rotating motor's armature contacts (there are capacitors in each Märklin chassis but not in anyone elses locos). Adding them to the track was just a bonus. You really don't need the track one.

Solder to the rail bottoms or joiners every few sections and you'll have years of trouble free running. The current (amperage) draw of modern Z locos is so low that poor connections can much more easily be tolerated than in the much higher currents of say HO or O.

When we set up our Z-Bend Track modules at shows, we run entirely on the 8592 expansion track sections to test for electrical issues. Then we connect the inter-module bus feeders. Think about it, you get the Starter set wth and oval and add several Expansions sets and run them off a single track feeder, right ? Don't overdo it, you'll be fine.

 

Small hint: I am using the DCC++ solution. When I do program a CV I do not get acknowledgment from the loco if I am not using the marklin 8590 fully equipped. So in my case the capacitor is a must...