Help! A Beginner's Wiring Confusion

jshglass Oct 27, 2017

  1. jshglass

    jshglass TrainBoard Member

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    THANK GOODNESS!!!! (I didn't even notice the polarity issue on the example I found.)

    I am so happy to have finally figured this out the right way for Z scale. Thank you, thank you, thank you! I really appreciate your time helping me with understand all of this. It will be a nice project over the next month when I have time here and there. Oh, so looking forward to getting the ball rolling.

    Planning on using 20 gauge wire. Do you think that's appropriate? Also, 8-10V should do the trick for all Z scale locos, yes? I can set this adapter to 9V and be safe, no?
     
  2. acptulsa

    acptulsa TrainBoard Member

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    20 gauge is more than sufficient. Not all locomotive motors are equally efficient, but since 18 volts is enough to run most HO scale locomotives at 120+ scale miles per hour, 9V will probably be fine, though I'd leave it on 12 volts. Amperage is the other question. It goes up to two amps, which I believe will be more than enough.

    But I've always preferred purpose-built powerpacks, which at least have pulse speed control, direction control, and a good circuit breaker for the purpose built right in--and maybe good stuff like the momentum feature. With that, you'll have to add speed and direction control. Will you still be saving money?
     
  3. jshglass

    jshglass TrainBoard Member

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    Yea, I looking into more standard power packs, but they are all a little too rich for my blood at this point in time. Plus, these panel-mount throttles will help the transportability of the entire layout.

    Thanks for your help. I'll be sure to tag you in any layout updates I give, in case you're interested.
     
  4. acptulsa

    acptulsa TrainBoard Member

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    Keep us all updated! I'll see it.
     
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  5. Garth-H

    Garth-H TrainBoard Supporter

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    You seem to have the idea now I am not sure of all your wring as the scale of drawing puts things too close for 100% accuracy of my view of it

    you seem to have the idea now. have fun with it.
     
  6. Garth-H

    Garth-H TrainBoard Supporter

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    always interested in seeing what people are doing
     
  7. tracktoo

    tracktoo TrainBoard Member

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    I like Garth's suggestion of DPDT switches with center off that allow block selection of throttle "A" or throttle "B" or "OFF".

    That power supply you linked to should be enough to power both throttles. It is a 30 watt unit so when used at 9v it has 3.3 amps (30/ 9=3.3) available. I suspect your locos won't draw much more than 100mA (.1 amp) max and even if they were 200mA (.2 amp) you still have plenty of power to run up to... 16 locos?! If you half that for a double safety factor you could still run 8 at once. I'm guessing that should be enough. It's also overload and short circuit protected. The reverse switches on those throttles are also "center off" switches and the throttles are also short circuit protected. Hope that helps.
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2017
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  8. jshglass

    jshglass TrainBoard Member

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    Is there an other power supply you'd recommend? Also, which plug head do I use and what type of connectors should I buy for it?

    You're saying I can splice the wires to run both throttles off one power supply? Someone further up the thread said I should get two separate ones. Did you happen to get the direct message I sent you? If I end up going this route, how can I tell which wire form the adapter is + and which is the -? Finally, which is the + and which the - outbound port on the throttle? It's not listed. Or does it not matter?
     
  9. tracktoo

    tracktoo TrainBoard Member

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    That power supply seems fine and yes, I think it could power both throttles based on the amp draw that I believe is a fair estimate. Others with more Z experience could chime in here. The only thing I didn't notice in the link was whether it was a regulated supply but based on some of its recommended uses, suspect it is.

    This and the question of confirming polarity can both be confirmed with the use of a multi-tester. That is an almost indispensable tool working around these things and I and others have recommended acquiring one in some of these posts. They are not hard to learn your way around especially for the basic functions you'll use like volts and ohms. Get one, play with it a little, and even get someone who is familiar to give you a quick hands on lesson if you really want to cut to the quick. Example, with the red lead on the tool always being positive, touching both power supply wires you will get a readout of the voltage and additionally the polarity will read out on the display as + or -. In this case, the wire that the red meter lead is touching is the positive or negative based on which polarity symbol is displayed.

    There are very inexpensive ones available from places like Harbor Freight ($7.50 or so) and they are also available on occasion with a free coupon from them with any puchase as well as a 20% off coupon for the item that was purchased. If you're not familiar with their game, do a search.:cool: Coupons are available so freely that I believe it's like shopping discount cards where they price everything at one level, never expecting anybody to pay that price. A gimmick that has the consumer jumping through little aggravating hoops to get the legitimate price on a purchase but alas, I wasn't invited to that meeting. ;)
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2017
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  10. acptulsa

    acptulsa TrainBoard Member

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    Yes, you can use one with two controllers with power reverse, if you don't use common rail. But when you start a second train, it'll slow the first a little.
     
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  11. tracktoo

    tracktoo TrainBoard Member

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    I think that trains slowing will not be such an issue with a regulated supply as long as its capacity is not exceeded. That's kinda' the point of them and one of the reasons for my recommendation that a regulated supply be used. My first use of a regulated supply, when I learned such a thing existed, was intended to assure that you won't exceed the intended voltage regardless of draw which is safer for attached devices (leds being one where it matters) but to my simple mind it further assures that you get the intended voltage as draw fluctuates, all of the way up to the rating of the supply. I think this is correct but I would accept a different explanation from someone more expert than myself.:)
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2017
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