Right now I am using my Tech II 2500 ONLY for driving my AC Atlas N Scale switches/turnouts and want to get something smaller to do that job. I only need it to power my AC items. Will this work? https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-transformer-Compatible-Including-Honeywell/dp/B088PN111N/ref=sr_1_2?crid=Q1DINBPZT01E&keywords=BOSCH+SECURITY+VIDEO+TR1850+Transformer+18+VAC,+50VA+for+CCTV+Systems&qid=1672259089&sprefix=bosch+security+video+tr1850+transformer+18+vac,+50va+for+cctv+systems,aps,75&sr=8-2 Or this one? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DGH31IC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1VF30U5376AJ1&psc=1 Thanks to @Hardcoaler for the info. I was about to order a AC to DC wall wart, not good! Mine is just like this: https://www.portlines.com/store/MRC...-OUTPUT;-with-Momentum;-New;-boxed-p480405419
I'd go for the 16.5 VAC one, it has nearly 2.5 amps capacity and is pretty compact. It's the same voltage output as the Tech II. You'll have over twice the current capacity of the Tech II (which is about 1 amp) - it's always good to have a margin in that specification.
So it won't blow anything up? And why 3 screws, which do I connect my wires too? And what's up with the Red screw thingy?
3 screw terminals: the two outer ones give you your 16.5 VAC power. Polarity is no concern since it's AC. The middle terminal is a grounding pin, in case you need one - it's optional and I don't think you'll need it since your Tech II doesn't have one either (I have one too, for one portion of the layout). Since you're powering switch machines - basically an isolated circuit not connected to anything else, it won't be necessary. The Red Screw Thingy: I've never seen anything like that before. I suspect it's there to be able to attach it to a wall socket or something like that, if it's to be used with some kind of security panel (prevents unwanted unpluggings). If there's a way to remove it (screw it out), feel free to do so. Hope this helps.
Yes the screw with the red washer around it is to attach the unit to the outlet box via the screw hole in the middle of the outlet plate. It is to keep it from falling out being it is probably a heavier wart. You remove the existing screw in the plate and replace it with the one on the wart. Doug
So here is the bottom view, me thinks. And I connect these two screws to my AC input? Wait, I'll need some kind of switch to be able to power it OFF when not in use? Suggestions? As you can see I have never done anything like this before. https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-transformer-Compatible-Including-Honeywell/dp/B088PN111N/ref=sr_1_2?crid=Q1DINBPZT01E&keywords=BOSCH+SECURITY+VIDEO+TR1850+Transformer+18+VAC,+50VA+for+CCTV+Systems&qid=1672259089&sprefix=bosch+security+video+tr1850+transformer+18+vac,+50va+for+cctv+systems,aps,75&sr=8-2 That's it on Amazon!
You don't connect to the middle terminal for AC. Connect to the two outer terminals as Mike said. The wall wart is, of course, just going to take the place of your MRC 2500. Everything else is wired the same. If there are already switches there (momentary for your track switches, e.g.), they will be the same so you don't really need to switch the wart on and off but it would be good to be able to, having it on a switchable power strip as Dan said. Doug
That's a good idea. Another idea is to go get an old CHEAP power pack that came with a Train Set. You know the old Life-Like power units used to run your first train set and power the turnouts. Nothing fancy, cause all you want to do is power the turnouts, not run the trains. I think almost everybody has one or two of them laying around.
Heck I never thought of that, I have some of those, or one of those Blue & Brown things in the attic I think. Geez, you might have just saved me $20.00? Every dollar counts. They do have AC on them, don't they? Must dig through totes in attic now How in the world did you know I had one? Did you look in my attic? It's magic I say. I feel kind of dumb right now. Well that is solved, and saved money. No reason why it shouldn't work? This place is awesome! Need to clean it up! I think I have another one too? And screw holes to mount it, somewhere! I'll have to test it with ONE of these!
Yep, and he knows what is in my attic. Kind of scary And I can plug it up to my normal Christmas extension cord with a foot switch I use for all my layout power. I have two of them I use! One for WS lights, and one for the AC and NCE PowerCab, perfect solution! Now it is possible after starting this project for the Winter Layout Party, I might need some NEW Atlas Remote switches. If so I have to decide what @Hardcoaler told me about using the #6 turnouts versus the standard ones? For the entrance and exit from 11" radius outer loop to 9 3/4 radius inner loop. I think he said #6 was better for that?
Just so those little ol' power packs can supply enough current to reliably throw your switches. Almost all of them were/are around .5 - 1 amp. packs (I can't see what it says on the one you show because I can't scroll horizontally when I enlarge images) and will probably work but switches can draw quite a bit of current momentarily. Does that say 7 VA down at the bottom? If so, it's only about .6 amps. Well, it's easy enough to give 'er a try. Doug
7VA Max Output mean anything to you? All it says except Output Open Circuit 18 VAC and 16VDC? And Input 120VAC 50/60HZ.
Also using my newly purchased manual Atlas Standard turnouts as they are all the same and bought last year or year before. Till I buy or need new remote ones. Doing some testing with the manual ones! Everything work in progress!
Yes, 7 VA max. means about a .6 amp. max. output. You'll just have to hook it up and see if it throws the switches OK. It'll probably work. Open circuit voltage is the voltage without a load on it. Most power packs like that are unregulated so the voltage output will drop when you connect something like a locomotive to it. Of course, manual switches require NO output except from your muscles and fingers. Doug
Thanks, I'll give it a try later with the Remote switches. Manual are only temporary while I fix the wiring rats nest and such! I'll probably test it today with just ONE remote turnout!
How many switches are on your layout @in2tech ? Even with a dozen, I'll bet @Doug Gosha 's right, that your attic find will do okay. As I remember, your layout doesn't have lengthy runs of wire.
Well at Max it would have 7, if I add the spur back I took out. Probably won't though. And the other ones, not hooked up either, runs to my second base which I have not had out for some time. Even if I do will probably just operate the Remote switches on it manually for now! But usually just 5 Remote switches! Right now ONLY manual ones hooked up for testing and such, while I get ready to work on things. I'll have to look on the other base in the attic, but I think it only had 1 Remote and all the others are manual as I sit right next to them! When the two bases form an L.
