I share your interest in railroads and large layouts. I am devoting a warehouse to my trains. It is approximately 20'X 40'. The railroad will be multi-level--possibly 3 levels on one end. I am planning to incorporate modules, so parts can be moved to attend conventions, N-trak events, or what-have-you. I also plan to use DCC eventually. My railroad will loosely represent the Union Pacific in the Blue Mountains between Hinkle, Oregon and Nampa, Idaho. I am, however, trying to enlist the help of fellow modelers in my area. The idea is to build it faster, so we can operate trains. I'm really more interested in the operation end of things than construction. ------------------ Rett [This message has been edited by upguy (edited 02 May 2000).]
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by upguy: I share your interest in railroads and large layouts. I am devoting a warehouse to my trains. It is approximately 20'X 40'. The railroad will be multi-level--possibly 3 levels on one end. I am planning to incorporate modules, so parts can be moved to attend conventions, N-trak events, or what-have-you. I also plan to use DCC eventually. My railroad will loosely represent the Union Pacific in the Blue Mountains between Hinkle, Oregon and Nampa, Idaho. I am, however, trying to enlist the help of fellow modelers in my area. The idea is to build it faster, so we can operate trains. I'm really more interested in the operation end of things than construction. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Sounds like it will be a great layout. I have completed painting the soon to be rail room. After talking with several more people and investing in a new Kirby vac (not cheap) I decided to leave the carpet in place. I had to relay some of the carpet that I have ripped out. I need to purchase some additional power tools (circular saw and jig saw) before any construction of the benchwork can begin. The benchwork design has been completed and I am now about half done with the initial track plan. Once I complete the installaton of lighting in the room, I will start assembly of the benchwork. It's starting to look like June befoe I start this phase. Well thats all for now. Rett, let me know how things work out. Matt
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR> Benchwork, I know I will use butt to joint with a plywood top for the bottom level (level 0). Again, this level will mainly be a large staging yard based on a large consist yard in a city. I have been thinking about using foam as the basboard for the upper levels because it is easy to use and does not weigh allot. I have reaed an article on how to do this where you make a frame with "bed slats" to hold the foam in place. I am still researching this. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Which article are you referring to?? ------------------ Mike Drzycimski Arlington, TX The Southview Lines www.crosswinds.net/~mdrzycimski
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by mdrzycimski: Which article are you referring to?? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> This was a small article (not the greatest) from Model Railroader's book on benchwork. I am not sure the book is worth the price since it seems to be more of a general review as opposed to a step by step guide. Nevertheless, this mention of using foam as the basedboard inspired me. I still need to investigate what type of construction foam will work the best for this. Does anyone know what the pink foam is called used in construction? It is easy to work with and quite rigid. Let me know if you need more info to find this book (small book). I have not tried the library to see if there is any good reference material there. Thanks, Matt
Forgot to mention this. to use foam as your baseboard all is need is a frame around the perimeter and slats to hold the foam. The foam is then glued to the top of slats. I will be using foam to reduce the weight of my layout and to provide an easy way to cut into the baseboard if I need to (I know I will for areas). I will be using Woodland Scenics foam ontop of most of the baseboard foam. This will allow me to change the terrain easily if I ever need to. Well, it's time to wait until I get my power tools, oh well.
This is exactly the construction method I used on my garage layout. I built frames out of 1 x 4's, installed a few 1 x 2 cross braces and screwed cleats (slats) around the inside of the frame. The cross braces and cleats are all at the same height, recessed from the top edge of the frame the same thickness as the foam. The foam is glued to these. The foam (pink or blue) is called insulation board at the home centers. I could not get 2" thick here in the South like I would have preferred, so I bought sheets of 3/4" and 1/2" thicknesses. I layered two pieces of 3/4" and one piece of 1/2" to give total thickness of 2". I am very pleased with this type of construction. Please read more about my layout by following the link below and clicking on the "Layout" button. I didn't know there was an article about this method. I just came up with it on my own. ------------------ Mike Drzycimski Arlington, TX The Southview Lines www.crosswinds.net/~mdrzycimski
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by mdrzycimski: This is exactly the construction method I used on my garage layout. I built frames out of 1 x 4's, installed a few 1 x 2 cross braces and screwed cleats (slats) around the inside of the frame. The cross braces and cleats are all at the same height, recessed from the top edge of the frame the same thickness as the foam. The foam is glued to these. The foam (pink or blue) is called insulation board at the home centers. I could not get 2" thick here in the South like I would have preferred, so I bought sheets of 3/4" and 1/2" thicknesses. I layered two pieces of 3/4" and one piece of 1/2" to give total thickness of 2". I am very pleased with this type of construction. Please read more about my layout by following the link below and clicking on the "Layout" button. I didn't know there was an article about this method. I just came up with it on my own. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Very cool!! Say, does that mean they owe you royalties? I will certainly check out your site for tips and etc.
Mike, Nice web site. I recently moved back to Minnesota from Charlotte, NC and also live on the Crystal Coast of NC (New Bern, Morehead City, and Beaufort). I used to watch many NS trains follow US 70 from Raleigh to the sea ports and Morehead City. The NS has some very cool looking locos. Those Dash -9s look great in black. I will find an excuse to run a couple I'm sure Matt
Thanks! I need to get some pictures on there of my own railroad. I also plan to put my track plan on the page. And, a little more detail on the hot wire cutter. But, it's a start! ------------------ Mike Drzycimski Arlington, TX The Southview Lines www.crosswinds.net/~mdrzycimski
What vertical distance are you planning on between levels Matt? I use 20 inches but by the time a fascia board is installed on the upper level it becomes a lot less. In the case of the M.A.T. it is 16 inches. All scenery should be complete before the fascia board goes up or you will keep banging your head. Wiring for the upper level can also be difficult. Worth it in the end though. Robin
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Robin Matthysen: What vertical distance are you planning on between levels Matt? I use 20 inches but by the time a fascia board is installed on the upper level it becomes a lot less. In the case of the M.A.T. it is 16 inches. All scenery should be complete before the fascia board goes up or you will keep banging your head. Wiring for the upper level can also be difficult. Worth it in the end though. Robin<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> I am planning on 15" inches. Not including an allowance of 2.0" for the benchwork. As the plan stands for now. Level 0 will start at 12" Level 1 starts at 29" Level Three at 46" and level 4" at 63" I am 75" tall. I am considering of lowering level four by a couple of inches. Level 0 does dont cover the entire floor space of the layout. In fact it only covers about 1/3. I am toying with the idea of droping the entire layout a couple of inches and shave a couple of inches between level 2 and three. It looks like I will not begin benchwork construction until June, so I still have some time to examine these ideas. Robin, so state that you have 20" between your levels. That seems like alot. Is it?
I love this thread. I building a 25X 20 layout in my basement. I almost have the first loop built. Let me open a new topic, but one that you will be spending a lot of time with. Wiring All those funny little electrons running around your basement. By the way I've stolen most of what I've learned from an EE named Alan Gartner, he's got a great web site. When you start to lay track and wire. Go to radio shack and buy a 9V battery, a buzzer and 2 alagator clips. Wire them together and clip them on the tracks when you wire a short, the buzzer will sound. I read that last Sept. I bought the buzzer in January. Could have saved myself 100 hours of hunting shorts. If you plan on soldering more than once week, then check out the American Beauty resistance soldering station in MicroMark. I use Tortoise turn-out motors, 7 connections per motor. It cost more than some of my engines, best investment I ever made. Probably the best tool I've ever used. It does what you want when you want. Go to your local night school and take a course in basic electicity, not electronics, AC, DC, shunts, shorts and opens. That sort of thing. That'll do for now. e-mail me if I can be of help. ------------------ When in doubt, empty your magazine.
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by ChrisDante: I love this thread. I building a 25X 20 layout in my basement. I almost have the first loop built. Let me open a new topic, but one that you will be spending a lot of time with. Wiring All those funny little electrons running around your basement. By the way I've stolen most of what I've learned from an EE named Alan Gartner, he's got a great web site. When you start to lay track and wire. Go to radio shack and buy a 9V battery, a buzzer and 2 alagator clips. Wire them together and clip them on the tracks when you wire a short, the buzzer will sound. I read that last Sept. I bought the buzzer in January. Could have saved myself 100 hours of hunting shorts. If you plan on soldering more than once week, then check out the American Beauty resistance soldering station in MicroMark. I use Tortoise turn-out motors, 7 connections per motor. It cost more than some of my engines, best investment I ever made. Probably the best tool I've ever used. It does what you want when you want. Go to your local night school and take a course in basic electicity, not electronics, AC, DC, shunts, shorts and opens. That sort of thing. That'll do for now. e-mail me if I can be of help. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Very cool ideas!!! Do you have the URL to Alan's web site. I need to brain sponge Thanks Matt
Another factor Matt is lighting. Will you be using flourescent or incandescent. The 4 inches I use for fascia that is below the level surface handles lighting for me as well wiring. My track level is about 1 inch in depth. Hope I am making sense here. Lighting is important and if you only allow 2 inches for the level depth and only have 15 inches remaining, you may be in for a tight squeeze. Do a mock up out of cardboard cartons to see what you will be facing. I am not trying to put a damper on your ideas but am concerned that you may end up with something you don't really enjoy. I know the 16 inches I am using is a challenge. Depth of the shelf can also be a factor. If it's 12 inches or less then things get easier. Greater depths can be awkward. Putting in lighting and track wiring has caused me uneeded frustration which no model rairoader needs. Thats my two cents worth today. Robin
I have been thinking about low wattage lighting that is often used on trophy cases. I can not think of the name of these lights off the top of my head. The bulb is usally about 15 to 20 watts and is long and fairly skinny. I have not looked into other lighting options but will do so and I am open to suggestions. As far as vertical height and depth, the majority of my layout will be 20" in depth with the turnaround areas being about 26" I may take your advice with the heights. I have been using measuring tape next to models to try to get an idea of the layout. It is possible that after all of this I may end up subtracting a level . That would disrupt my grand plan of things. But on the other hand, if more vertical space between my levels proves needed, I do not want to have to lay on my fat belly to work/play with the bottom level. Geeez, just when I thougt I had it all figured out Of course I would rather spend 6 months planning the benchwork and track plan than years of griping with a bad layout. I do not want to have to start a layout over once I get going. Those of you with multiple level layouts, what type of lighting do you use for the lower levels and what is the vertical distance between levels. As always, I thank you all for the great info and fun you all provide. Matt [This message has been edited by mtaylor (edited 12 May 2000).]
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by mtaylor: Very cool ideas!!! Do you have the URL to Alan's web site. I need to brain sponge Thanks Matt<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> I think it is Wiring For DCC, if not that will get you close enough to find it. ------------------ When in doubt, empty your magazine.
The layout that I am building (with help) is going to be using modules in conjunction with shelves connected to the walls. The modules will probably be the standard 24" x 48" with 40" in height. These will connect to a shelf that will elevate the track to a second level about 50" to 52" which will be above the modules. This second level will be about 1/2 the width of the level below it. There will also be a third level over part of the layout that will be 1/2 the width of the second level. (24" -- 12" -- 6") With this configuration I hope to be able to see each level even with them relatively close together. I also hope that this will allow ceiling lighting to provide adequate lighting without having to wire lighting into the layout itself. Am I going to be sorry that I did it this way? Any thoughts? ------------------ Rett
Me again Matt. My lighting is all incandescent. I use 40 watt bulbs spaced 30 inches apart. I have made reflectors out of coffee tins. I must drink too much coffee because I have enough tins to do the whole layout. I cut the tins in half and mount them over the light bulbs and with a bend and twist here and there, I get light to go where I want it. I use this on both levels. I have set up dimmer switches to give me the ability to change light levels. I can use up to 15 bulbs per dimmer. My main aisle lights are blue. When I turn off all track lighting the blue light give a feeling of moonlight. Great for night operation. Robin
The 20 inches may be a lot Matt but I can assure you that with lighting and fascia board it isn't. The net height is 16 inches. That is not much room to do any work in there. Just try wiring or track work. Scenery isn't too bad and structures can be built at the bench and installation is easy. The shelf depth on my layout is a maximum of 24 inches down to 12 inches. The area where my roundhouse is to go will be somewhat deeper and will have the main line run around behind it. No fancy track work here. Robin
