FYI to all on using liquid nails and foam! I found out the hard way! I finally got down to business and laid all my track. It took about 3-weeks of weekends and evenings to complete the project. Everything looked great, the wiring went smoothly, the first train (Kato/Atlas RS-3 purchased in 1984 - D&H with two passenger cars) ran the inaguration special- no problems or derails. After a week away, when I returned from a road trip, I was getting ready to start landscaping and ballasting. To my horror, I found my flex-track started to un-flex and the sectional track lifted from the cork. Plus, my cork LIFTED FROM THE FOAM, WHICH LIFTED FROM THE PLYWOOD! My liquid nails glue wasn't glue anymore! It had actually melted my foam in places and the cork, which I glued too, pulled away as well. It's funny, that everything seemed "locked down" okay when I was laying the track. I think the pressure of the track pulled everything up. Like it was spring loaded. Nothing was lost, I spent about another week re-gluing the foam, where it lifted, with the water-based liquid nails. (There are probably 12 different types. Apparently I bought the wrong one!) The track - I re-glued down with hot-glue on to the cork. Just to let everyone know and what I did to solve the problem. Don't use the epoxy-based glue with foam. You have to really read the fine, fine, print on the tubes. John
Next time try the liquid latex base form of liquid nails, that is the one recomended for the gluing of foam (I also learned the hard way)
Thanks Squirrel, All I can say is what a mess! I was at the point of considering ripping everything up and starting over... I decided to go for a long, long walk instead. The re-gluing seems to have helped as nothing has budged since. Now to start the landscaping... John [ 16 September 2001: Message edited by: JohnC ]</p>
I learned a similar lesson a long time ago about solvent based paints. Great if you want a WW I batlefield! The best product is called Liquid Nails for Projects and is a latex caulk. Having said that, any latex caulk will work just as well, and probably be cheaper to boot!
I was warned by my fellow club members about getting the right caulk some time ago. I also got Liquid Nails for Projects, and have had no problems. While I was at it, I used white glue (Elmer's glue) to hold down the Woodland Scenics foam roadbed. I used nails to hold the roadbed to the foam until the glue dried, then removed the nails. Needless to say, I'm happy with the results. I've painted the side of my foam board with Floquil PollyS black (latex base, cleans with water). You can try regular Floquil, but you won't like the after-effects!
Totally agree with Eagle2! Sometimes you must read the fine print on those caulking tubes... Eagle2, are you a freelancer or do you model a particular era? I am just outside GATE 20...
I use cork roadbed over foam. My method is to glue the cork down to the foam with regular white glue. After this is set, I use the REGULAR Liquid Nails (not Projects) to glue the track to the foam. The regular LN does not react to the cork or the track and does not touch the foam, so no problems. I think the regular formula of LN holds better than the latex kind. I have done a module this way over ten years ago. The track has not budged at all and is still firmly attached. For more, see my web page.
ROMAFERN: I guess I'm pretty much a free lancer (as long as it's MoPac) BTW, shame on you! Co Springs isn't near Gate 20, at least relatively. But that's OK.
Thanks to all for your input. A lesson has been learned - RFP (Read the Fine Print)! John [ 18 September 2001: Message edited by: JohnC ]</p>
