Control panel for a DC controled layout using chart tape

videobruce Feb 5, 2013

  1. videobruce

    videobruce TrainBoard Member

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    I decided some time ago to stick with conventional DC operation in spite of the frenzy over DCC due to the number of existing motive power I had that is in good running condition. That and the fact this is N scale and the engines are not DCC friendly.

    I took the concept from my first layout 17 years ago to design the panel as close to scale as possible as opposed to a 'linear' design due to the complexity of the plan. It's just too confusing to keep track of everything if I didn't . My 1st layouts panel was linear, but it just didn't work. I did try it again to come up with something, but it was a no go.
    I wanted something that someone could look at and figure out without a long learning curve. Though, that night still be debatable, it's as good as it gets.

    I don't have the skills to do computer based graphic work, so the plan was drawn out by hand, ruler & compass. Both with the full size paper templates I used for the actual layout and the layout for the panel. I used 1/8" white Plexiglas for the base of the panel and a 3/32" clear acrylic sheet for the top protective cover.

    For the track itself, I used chart or graphic tape which is hard to find due to the use of computer graphics. I had some left over from my first panel, but need more. I bought 1/8" and 1/16", but found the 1/16" worked best due to the number of parallel tracks I have.

    To layout the plan I did what I did (in a smaller scale) for the actual table by placing the paper plan over the surface, securing it to the frame of the panel and using a sharp 'pic' pressing the point every half inch or closer, tracing the plan so I can use the indentations as a guide where to place the tape. If I remember correctly, I believe I used carbon paper to trace the layout to the Plexiglas on my 1st layout (a smaller panel).

    I came up with a choice of colors to separate tracks & blocks so one could follow the route around. Red & orange for track one. Blue & green for track two. Tan for the sidings, black for the yard.

    I used Rub on dry transfers letters & numbers for the turnouts, blocks and labeling on the panel. The transfer of the 'ink' works fine as long as you fully 'rub' the number or letter being sure you don't miss any part or the character will be incomplete. You can use any blunt object as long as it doesn't tear the sheet of transfers. With a white panel, I choose the most common color; black.

    Source for the chart/graphic tape is here (they had the best selection and prices);
    IDENTI-TAPE - Chart Tape & Map Tape

    The main (expensive) source for the specific size of lettering and numbers was;
    Dry Transfers FLS Discount Supplies

    The other source was in the UK (much cheaper, but font size was larger);
    Rub On Transfer Letters and Numbers - Sticker World

    But there is also here (Woodland Scenics);
    Letters / Numbers Model Railroad Decals

    Two notes here;
    There are a couple of types of charting/graphic tape. One with a very glossy finish (plastic like) and the other a matte finish (cloth like). I found the glossy finish does not bend well. Tight curves are a problem as the tape 'wrinkles' depending on the tightness of the curve. The more flexible cloth like tape does not. I had to replace/redo some of the curves due to this. Not a huge deal, but an annoyance.

    The point (font) size of the numbers & letters was important. Most of the dry transfers had larger font sizes which would of been too large for this application. The only one that had sizes smaller than 12 point was FLS (2nd link) which was the most expensive (around $20 a package). Eight and ten point were the best. I did use some six and twelve.
    .
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 5, 2013
  2. videobruce

    videobruce TrainBoard Member

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    Attached are photos for the tape and rub on dry transfers.
    Also are photos for the panel with toggle switches for block control & turnouts.

    I did a separate thread on electronic suppliers for sources for toggles;
    http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine...ctrical-amp-wire-cable-supply-sites-amp-links

    On the third attachment, the rows of toggles are push buttons for turnouts. The two rows to the right of the 10 track hump are diode matrix configuration where one button lines the route.
    The two rows to the left and below the layout are for the turnouts directly above where space was not sufficient to place the toggles near the turnout like the rest of the layout. Those toggles and the associated turnout are both numbered.


    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 5, 2013
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  3. videobruce

    videobruce TrainBoard Member

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    I designed this to 'hinge' (flip out) so I can work on the reverse side without working upside down. This duplicated my 1st layout design and it worked Ok. I will support the panel when it is 'flipped' by inserting two roofing nails through the supports and the frame. If I feel additional support is needed I can always slap together a wooden brace of some kind to support it from the floor.

    Attached are pics of my first layouts panel (original design, then revised) and the current layouts panel with closeups of the toggles and open and closed side views. Hopefully it won't be such a 'rats nest' as the 1st one was.
    The holes in the panel are for bi-colored LED's for the turnouts. I'm using servos with control boards that allows a bi colored LED saving space on the panel and less holes to drill. I will also add support wires crossing lengthwise to tie off the wires keeping them from hanging down.

    I'm questioning my use of 1x2"s for the support arms for the panel. My old panel used 1x4's so I might make a change here.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 5, 2013
  4. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Looks like the panel might be a bit on the heavy side. So you may be correct about questioning use of 1x2 lumber.

    You will certainly be kept busy wiring that panel. Brings back memories for me of past efforts on my part.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 5, 2013
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  5. paperkite

    paperkite TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for posting these panels. I have to do a new control panel and etc. for my new DC layout and have been putting it off... now it seems I will put it off even further as it all looks so confusing , I say looks confusing but really I think it is just tedious. You have some keen ideas here and it will help me deisign a panel even if I don't build it ..... I think it would be just perfect if someone else built and wired the panel and I just had to hook it up to the trak ... ( that'd be a hint for anyone intrested , I'd pay of course )
     
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  6. David K. Smith

    David K. Smith TrainBoard Supporter

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    I've not had the best of luck using chart tape for control panels. After a few years of use, the tape starts to peel off from normal wear and tear and/or degradation of the adhesive on the tape. My recommendation is to paint the panel in various colors where different lines will run (no need to be super-neat about this), apply the chart tape, then spray the whole panel a contrasting color (I prefer black). When the paint is dry, peel off the tape to expose the colors underneath. For lettering, use dry transfers, then spray the whole panel with clear overcoat to protect the lettering from wear.
     
  7. videobruce

    videobruce TrainBoard Member

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    It's not the panel, it's all the cabling that I'm concerned about.
    Which is why the tape is between the two layers of plastic. The tape is laid on the white sheet, not the top clear sheet. I never had any issue 17 years ago and that panel lasted around five years. I would never consider placing that tape with nothing over it to protect it. With the additional pressure of all those toggles, I see no issue at all.
     
  8. David K. Smith

    David K. Smith TrainBoard Supporter

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    You are absolutely correct. I failed to read the original post thoroughly; my apologies.
     
  9. videobruce

    videobruce TrainBoard Member

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    For my first layout, I sandwiched the two layers together so the nut holding each toggle was on the top (outside). Problem with that is, if I want to make a label or track change, I have to remove every nut which in this case would be a nightmare.
    But,
    I was concerned about what you brought up, also I was concerned about rigidity (flex) on a single sheet of Plexi vs a double sheet (with the nut on the outside instead of between) so I went with my original plan. I checked, I don't know how many times for omissions, but after assembly I still found a few which I corrected with my Brother label maker (1/4" tape using 10 point text for two block labels and 2/8" text for the CP numbers).
     
  10. Arctic Train

    Arctic Train TrainBoard Member

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    For the control panel on my old layout I used 1/4 in. polycarbonite (because I had a sheet laying around the house) and DPDT mini switches. To do the layout diagram I used Car pin stripe tape. Available at any car parts store, cheap, and very easy to apply. My method of construction started with covering the face of the panel with masking tape. I traced the layout design on the tape with a dark colored marker. Then drilled the holes for all the turnout switches. Next I flipped the board over and applied the pin stripes on the back following the lines visible through the tape. After the pin stripes were layed down I sprayed the back of the board black. Ater the paint dried I removed the masking tape on the face and started installing, and wiring the switches.

    [​IMG]

    Brian
     
  11. videobruce

    videobruce TrainBoard Member

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    Interesting about using car pinstripe tape. I went this route because that is what I did before. I liked the smooth acrylic/Plexi for the adhesion ability for the tape. A white background amkes it easier to see the different colors for the blocks.
    I'm just pissed about the acrylic chipping after drilling the smaller holes for the LED's in spite of the specialized bit I bought.
     
  12. paperkite

    paperkite TrainBoard Member

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    My first control panel in 1978 used acrylic and chipped something fierce even after having a tool and dye maker grind a special bit to prevent chip out . I gave up and went with masonite , it was ugly...
     
  13. videobruce

    videobruce TrainBoard Member

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    I drilled 105 1/4" holes with no issue with my old plastic bit. The new smaller bit I just bought for the LED's is the one I had the problem with. The bezel at a sharper angle 80 degrees vs 90 for the older bit. That apparently caused the problem though it was suppose to do the opposite.

    The bit on the left is a typical wood bit. The center is the 1/4" 90 degree bevel, the one on the right is the smaller 80 degree sharper bevel that caused the chip out.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. David K. Smith

    David K. Smith TrainBoard Supporter

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    I've never been fond of acrylic for control panels. It's kind of "sexy," in a way, but to me it's a "fussy" material to work with and more trouble than it's worth. I've always preferred good old tempered Masonite, although for smaller panels I'll use thick styrene.
     
  15. Dwyane

    Dwyane TrainBoard Member

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  16. videobruce

    videobruce TrainBoard Member

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    The difference is "cast" vs "extruded" materials. Cast is brittle and can crack or chip, extruded will melt. The supplier didn't have any extruded white material.
    Would I do it again? Absolutely, but I would go out of my way to get only extruded material and/or just use conventional wood bits (which work fine in the past).

    Dwyane;
    Real nice panels, clean and uncluttered. I wanted CTC (dispatcher) operation which is what I grew up with.
    Question; How about longevity for that pinstripeing? Pealing off and/or getting worn/dirty/winkled?

    I should add (since I can't edit my OP), I have 27 locomotives that are not DCC friendly. I have/had no intention to attempt to modify them to accept DCC modules. Nor did I want to sell them since they all run fine and many were custom decaled and/or painted with MicroTrain couplers added. Since the average price for a DCC loco now is around $100, you do the math. Selling those engines for maybe $30 each would still mean big bucks, not counting the time invested to customize them.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 8, 2013
  17. Dwyane

    Dwyane TrainBoard Member

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    Dwyane;
    Real nice panels, clean and uncluttered. I wanted CTC (dispatcher) operation which is what I grew up with.
    Question; How about longevity for that pinstripeing? Pealing off and/or getting worn/dirty/winkled?

    I make my first panels in 2006 with 1/8" Pinstripe tape, This is auto pin stripe once it in place for a while it does not come up easy. It is vinyl or plastic so it can be clean if need it. They do use it on outside of cars so it can handle waxing, car washer and etc.

    Here are some photos of the panels back in 2006 and today

    2006

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Today after being in storage and the base of the panel re-use on my current layout

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  18. videobruce

    videobruce TrainBoard Member

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    I added shelves for my two 'throttles'. One a single, the other a dual supply that was re-built. I also reinforced the bracket for the panel.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  19. videobruce

    videobruce TrainBoard Member

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    It was suggested elsewhere to use Avery laser labels;
    http://www.amazon.com/Avery-White-Mailing-Labels-Printers/dp/B00006B8FZ/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

    I see they also make labels for Inkjets, but the labels are actually 'frosted', something Avery does not state.
    http://www.avery.com/avery/en_us/Pr...bels/Easy-Peel-Clear-Address-Labels_05660.htm
    http://www.amazon.com/Avery-Mailing-Labels-Printers-18660/dp/B00004Z5T0/ref=cm_rdp_product

    But, actually cutting them to size might be a problem. For longer labels that makes sense, but for just numbers or individual letters, it would be a real chore. Has anyone tried any of these??
     
  20. Train Builder

    Train Builder TrainBoard Member

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    What a brilliant idea. I'm in the midst of building a control panel on a sheet of lexan, and have not been able to find a suitable tape anywhere. Letratape etc has pretty much become obsolete as others have noted; and my skills drawing with Keynote are less than stellar.
     

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