Yup. Just had never noticed them before, when in any hardware or building supplier. I usually have a list, head straight for my target, buy it and get home- Before I get run over by some crazed contractor shoving a cart of lumber.
There's another type that works in a similar way, but the bracket runs horizontally along the wall and has two lips that the shelf board fits between. Called "invisible bracket" or some such.
They are, in fact, these: http://www.rockler.com/jams-shelf-brackets-select-option Which appear to be so similar to the ones you posted that they must be different models of the same basic bracket.
Is Rockler the actual manufacturer, or just a reseller? The "big box" stores seem to handle the Dolle [ http://www.dolle.com/Home/Contact-Dolle-Group/Dolle-Shelvings ] brand of this style of shelf bracket. The Dolle product line is imported into the US by Bluestone: http://www.bluestoneshelves.com/Shelf-Brackets/Metal-shelf-brackets/ The 'JAM' bracket is just one style within the product line of decorative shelf brackets.
According to the packaging, these particular brackets are made (or at least packaged) by Reunion Industrial S.L.U. of Valencia, Spain. Rockler is just the retailer.
Time for another update. I took a couple of weeks for family vacation, but I'm back at work making sawdust. Since last report, I finished and painted the narrow shelf, finished and painted the peninsula, and constructed two more sections of the layout shelf. The final section, along the South wall (with the entry door) is getting started. I have rough-cut the top piece, and after a cool-down break and some time doing design math, will be going downstairs to start ripping the frame pieces. One more section done... by Mark, on Flickr One more section done... by Mark, on Flickr Next steps... Test fitting by Mark, on Flickr For some reason, section #3 (above the computer) is 1/2" higher than the rest... I will have to make some adjustments to fix that. I have foam down on the narrow shelf and on section #1 (behind the peninsula in the corner), including the grade for the track that leads to the narrow shelf. Here's a detail of the underside of section #4, including where I left a gap in the frame for clearance around a future UP5 panel. Space for a UP5 by Mark, on Flickr The top of sections #4 and 5 are (or will be) intentionally cut over-large. The layout edge will curve inward around the corner there (widening the aisle), and I want to make the cut across both sections together so it will flow smoothly. I also have to figure out how to arrange the corner of section #5 where the swing-bridge will attach... I know how I want to do it, but I just have to do the math on the pieces to cut. While I am painting the shelves themselves primer grey (they will be hidden behind the fascia), I went to the trouble of staining the legs of the peninsula, in case I decide not to use a skirt. That was a fun exercise. I've never stained wood before...
Yeah, something like that. The worst part was waiting FOREVER for each coat to dry... I'm not a very patient guy. But the end result is, I think, worth it. The legs look quite good (for my woodworking skill level), and assuming I leave them exposed (which is the plan), it will help keep the room looking nice.
A further update... I have the fifth and final shelf under construction. I found that I had accidentally made the peninsula two inches too long, so I had to take it down and chop off the end. After that little bit of surgery and some very minor adjustments to the track design, I now have a comfortable 26" pass-through between the peninsula and the shelf. I've been working on the design of the swing bridge that will close the loop. Because it is part of the main line, I expect that during operating sessions it will be necessary to occasionally duck under, rather than open the bridge. So I am keeping the shelf as thin as practical to provide as much clearance as I can for ducking under. I had originally planned on having 2 inches of foam and modeling a nice trestle scene on the bridge, but due to the need to keep it thin, I ditched that idea. I did, however, keep 1/2" of foam, just enough for some minor scenic contouring, ditch lines, and the like around the track. Here's a sketchup of what I have so far... the bridge is 1/2" foam over 1/2" ply, with some kind of stiffening (TBD) beneath the ply (perhaps a second layer of ply, perhaps something else). There is a ledge on the right end (shelf) that the end of the bridge will rest on when closed, and a stopper it will swing against to locate it. Still working out some of the details of exactly how this part will be constructed. Some of it will be built-to-fit as I go.
That's an interesting swing idea. I'm too used to seeing up or down. It will be interesting to learn just how this works on operating days.
I'm still working that out. I'm not too keen on a swing-up or down, but I may (yet) have to go with one... the swing-out will block the closet-wall aisle when it's open, so that may be a bit awkward... or not. Time for a mock-up!!
My concern on a swing would be alignment when closing. You might want to consider some sort of keying mechanism that brings the swinging in back at the same exact height each time. Don't depend just on the lower ledge.
Here's a quick take on a lift version. I actually like the simplicity of this, if I can get over the elevated hinges. The other issue is there is a ceiling fan above the bridge, so I would have to limit upward travel with a strap or chain or something. The supports under the bridge ends would each have a pair of screws driven in them to act as adjustable bridge "shoes". Plus some kind of (TBD) alignment pin thing on the latch end.
It's my understanding that they have to be elevated above the rail tops in order to allow clearance when the bridge opens up. They don't have to be as tall as I show in the sketch, but...
you just need the center point of the hinge to be at/above the rail head. So, with a typical hinge, it can be basically flush. Just don't build up too much scenery around the joint. There is also a drop down option, so all the pivoting is away from the join (at least on the hinge side). Gets complicated on the other side, though. That is one reason I went with a simple lift-out bridge across the doorway of the JACALAR.
