Frank, I used an airbrush only for the orange layers. As I'm too much messy I didn't realize the top of G&W engines are grey before I actually set all shell including its roof under a double layer of orange. When I discovered I had to paint the top grey it was too late and I didn't want to cover the remaining of the shell under masking tape, that's why I used an hand brush for the top. The fans are a little bit embedded but I'm remembering I have a superdetail kit from Micronart for Rogue/AZL GP38s. That kit includes brass fan grids for the upper fans (except of course the small one in the middle but that'll be OK) and these will be thus enhanced. Dom
Here are the latest steps: -painting and setting handrails (aft still to be set), -painting and setting pilot + front coupler (I find it too much protruding in my opinion, preventing close coupling, that's why on the aft side I'll revert to truck coupling) -finishing black stripe painting on both sides of the cab Next steps: applying bright polish, setting the decals (when I have them, if ever) and weathering. Dom
Hi Dom, Looks good to me. Maybe you can shorten the coupler house slightly or us the coupler that came from the truck. I will run into the same issue with my 3045. I can recall that Robert Ray did chop off the end of the coupler housing , were the spring became vissible.
Thanks for the kind commentZ guys. But to give ZFRANK a reply, I used its screw pocket to set the MTL coupler on the pilot... And as the screw was too loose I consolided the setting with a small drop of superglue. Difficult to go backwards now. And as everything is set on the loco with superglue (front handrails on the shell, pilot on the front handrail, coupler on the pilot, yet with the screw) I'll wait to check how the front side works. If I've no problem of separation I'll consider modifying the aft side as well, indeed setting the coupler only with superglue and not using the screw pocket (actually I'll use the loco mainly as a single engine working the branchline and as there will be a wye at every end of the line the loco will always be running nose forward, except for a few maneuvers on sidings and spurs). Thus, if I'm happy with the result I'll be able to set the coupler only with superglue, and in that case I'll be able to set it deeper on the pilot. But on what I've already done, I'm affraid that any modification should be difficult. Dom
When I created my full pilots for the GP9's and 35's i remove the back of the coupler box so I can draw the coupler further into the pocket. This exposes the end of the coupler pieces that hold the spring inside the box. For ease of maintenance when I install the coupler I use a piece of brass wire with the end bend at right angles and flattened, like the head of a rail spike, to drop down through a hole in the pilot deck and into the bottom of the pocket to hold the coupler in place. So, if it needs to be replaced all I have to do is pull the piece of brass wire up and replace the damaged coupler and reinstall the brass wire. A dab of paint on the flattened head hides it and secures it in place and a exacto knife blade will free it anytime a replacement is required. Even a piece of solder or a rail spike will do this job. Just be sure the brass piece does not protrude below the full pilot and snag the road bed or switch points.
Interresting comments guys, thank you, I will remember for my next Geep conversion. However, I'd like here to cheerfully greet Mr Uncle Nugat who kindly gave me these pilots and without who none of this could have been done.:tb-wink::thumbs_up: Dom
Hi Alex First thing I do is put a plate across between the step under the pilot and shim up to correct height coupler height. Then I plate the front of the pilot. install the coupler and drill the hole by placing the coupler on bottom plate to mark hole location and then drill upward. In these pictures I have replaced my wire with solder piece so you can see it. Otherwise once flattened and cut off at edge of pilot and painted it disappears and can not be seen.
I believe that is from the AZL SD75 run. I purchased extra trucks with traction tires and additional plows when they first came out. But I have made them from Brass and aluminum cigar tubes in the past and plastic. My z-scale Rogue GP38 has a brass one and the Nn3 DL535 has cigar tube one.
plow ...spend this afternoon 'stuggling' with some styrene... The left side (as seen in the picture) was the first and more successfull half. It is intended for my D&RGW 3045.
Project close to completion. The picture below shows the loco riding rails far from its future and normal biotope... However, the zoomed picture is merciless, and shows all areas needing to receive small repainting work. After that I have to paint the fuel tank black (I discovered today that I've no more black paint at homecool, to paint black oblique stripes on the pilot, then to weather. Dom
Hi Gerd, do you mean a "matt varnish"? However, I'd like to congratulate you for the work with the decals, and to cheerfully thank mister Uncle Nugat for the pilots he kindly sent me.:tb-wink: Dom
