GP35 snow plow mounting

JonEMDfan Nov 26, 2020

  1. JonEMDfan

    JonEMDfan TrainBoard Member

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    I have 2 snow plows to mount to my Athearn Blue Box GP35. The instructions say to remove items that may interfere, I am guessing that is the 2 L shaped brackets at the bottom of the pilot end. My scratch awl is pointing at the L brackets.See image below. It also suggests using Kadee couplers, I noticed the Athearn couplers are rather oversized and odd shaped. Any help will be apperciated.-John
    GP35 snowplow 1.JPG
    GP35 snowplow 2.JPG
     
  2. dalebaker

    dalebaker TrainBoard Member

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    On the body shell, those represent foot boards. I would cut them off so the end sill is straight. Do not shorten it.A razor saw and file will clean them up nicely.

    The coupler is what most folks call a horn hook coupler. Remove the coupler and the retainer that goes over it. What I used to do was use a stationery disc sander to remove about half the thickness of the piece sticking out and then drill and tap for a 2-56 screw. Use the Kadee box to hold the replacement coupler and a 2-56 screw to attach it. In the front pocket, I would use a long shank coupler to keep it from being fouled by the plow installation. The newer whisker couplers work pretty good and you don’t need to use the brass centering spring in the coupler box.

    I can post a picture of one tomorrow if you want. Just PM me if you need to see it.

    Dale
     
  3. JonEMDfan

    JonEMDfan TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks Dale, that would be most helpful.-John
     
  4. dalebaker

    dalebaker TrainBoard Member

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    This is a BB old width GP 35 I have.
    Here the Kadee coupler and box are attached to the frame with a 2-56 screw. On this installation I did not need to sand the coupler tab. I did have to shim the box underneath with a Kadee red and gray washers.
    9E03B338-B4C9-4E5C-B9E5-68DF15EE7FF9.jpeg

    Here is where I just had to drill and tap for the screw.
    4DB9C643-6146-4B75-9B7C-B46ABD837E37.jpeg
    This is a frame from a Athearn F45 locomotive. On this one I drilled from the top and tapped.
    B9EC0B00-2E91-463E-A770-203B3EB156E6.jpeg
    This is the bottom of the tab. I had to sand here to get it to work. I don’t remember if I had to add any shims.
    FB40ABB5-15B0-4B43-B3E4-5FA6AC04F782.jpeg
    The Kadee tap and drill set. These will Chuck up in a pin vice.
    3375B9F0-C3AF-4FD7-86A1-4786B8826591.jpeg
    Have fun! And post your results. If you do not have one, invest in a coupler height gauge, you can use it to check your work as you fit the couplers.
     
  5. JonEMDfan

    JonEMDfan TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks, those couplers look very authentic. I worked in a machine shop welding many many years and have tapped but smallest was 1/4-20 to 1/2 13 mostly. Doesn't Kadee makes a coupler that fits Athearn "boxes"? I am building "static" models that will go in a display case so height for connection to other cars is moot to me. I was thinking of cutting the "horn" off the Athearn coupler but after seeing yours in the picture I will replace the originals. Thanks again.-John
     
  6. dalebaker

    dalebaker TrainBoard Member

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    Well you could just cut the horn off and leave the hook. Paint them with burnt umber acrylic craft paint and you would have to get really close to notice them. You could also trim off the piece that sticks down. That was to be used with an automatic uncoupler you could buy. You don’t need it for display.
     
  7. JonEMDfan

    JonEMDfan TrainBoard Member

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    I tried on a previous build what you suggested. Cut the horn and the uncoupler tab off the bottom then painted it burnt sienna acrylic on my static PC GP35. Plumb out of rust. It does look much better but I think I will go with the replacement couplers and drill and tap. I have been drilling #76 holes with a pin vise so it can't be much harder and the original couplers need even more altering for clearance.-John

    PC GP35 coupler 1.JPG
     
  8. dalebaker

    dalebaker TrainBoard Member

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    Well since these are for show only, you could just pop the retainer off, replace with a #5 Kadee with the glad arm removed. Paint it and you will be good to go. If it does not stick out straight, a bit of CA would hold it to the coupler retainer in the correct position.
     
  9. Pastor John

    Pastor John TrainBoard Member

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    For what it's worth, while a pin vise certainly works to drill holes for the coupler box, I often have trouble with the bit "walking" off center before it really bites. I decided to buy a Dremel drill-press to fix that problem, but a good, spring-loaded center punch would probably be enough.

    Sent from my moto g(7) play using Tapatalk
     

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