How Finicky is N Scale?

Xrayvizhen Jan 3, 2021

  1. Xrayvizhen

    Xrayvizhen TrainBoard Member

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    I used the Woodland Scenics 2% incline set to get up to that level which is 3" above the base, discarded the two 4" +/- long sections where the lower tracks pass under, then continued on but flipped it in the other direction to start the decline. I never used the risers that complete the climb to 4" so I don't know if that set graduates the start and end. Regardless, filing that section section of styrofoam lower will be today's fun activity.

    Given the finickyness of the scale I'm rethinking the scenery aspect of this layout because sections of track I was planning to be concealed by tunnels under hills or mountains may have to be more out in the open in case things go haywire, or at least I'll need numerous access hatches for the five fingered train crew to get in there and straighten things out.

    The funniest thing about this whole project is I was originally thinking about going to Z scale of all things, admiring the various coffee table layouts I saw on the internet. (I need a new coffee table in my den/man-cave.) But a local hobby shop owner convinced me, because I was used to modeling in O gauge since I was a child, going to Z as an old fart was just plain nuts. Examining the Z scale trains he had in his store I had to agree with his logic, thus, here I am in N. What I have here now is not a coffee table but more like a large door.
     
    MK and mtntrainman like this.
  2. bigGG1fan

    bigGG1fan TrainBoard Member

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    Hi Xray... we're about at the same place on this wonderful hobby journey. As mtntrainman said, the transition to flat at a rail joint is an issue. I have had the same problem. It occurred most often with my Bachmann J, which has proven to be most sensitive to that, especially when coupled to my Kato rolling stock, so it's ideal for testing uncoupling issues.) I had generally no problems with Kato-to-Kato coupling, unless there were cars in the consist that did not roll freely, and created too much drag for the couplers to hold. They're awaiting replacement trucks.

    You're right about sanding/shimming. I used spackle to maintain the track alignment, and careful sanding to make sure the roadbed was flat perpendicular to the track and to move the transition to flat beyond the rail joints. I have a couple of spots where my 3% goes to 4% for a short distance (less than a track length) because of that (I have to throttle up on one particular section of the incline to maintain speed with longer trains... imagine that.)

    Getting the track geometry right is probably the hardest thing; I've only ever had temporary DC layouts on flat surfaces (you can blame the incline on my kid... it was his idea.) I like the over-under design of your layout.
     
  3. Massey

    Massey TrainBoard Member

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    So with Kato track (and Bachmann for that matter) you can bend the longer pieces slightly to get your transition. Just be careful and try a little at a time. I have had pieces of track feel like they are not bending then all of a sudden they are folded in half. With Unitrak and EZtrack you are fighting the roadbed too. I have found heating the track in boiling water or with a heat gun helps prevent the sudden death of the track as the hot plastic will be more forgiving to you trying to reshape it.
     
  4. Xrayvizhen

    Xrayvizhen TrainBoard Member

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    Update:
    Filing down the center foam pier just a little bit worked! The kink in between the track sections disappeared and as a result the test train I assembled, the loco plus 6 various pieces of rolling stock behind it , traversed the section in both directions, going backwards and forwards, without a hiccup.

    The locomotive stuttering seems to be reduced as well. Maybe it did need to be broken in. It's not gone entirely, but it's not happening as often. I'll try the coffee filter / wheel cleaning trick eventually but meanwhile I discovered another kink between track sections on the flat outer loop where I found I did a bad soldering job on a DIY unijoiner)feeder. I ran out of unifeeders and made a couple of my own. One pair is perfect, the other not so much. Those copper (brass?) rail joiners are tiny. I just picked up a package of unifeeders today from my LHS and will be replacing tomorrow at which more testing will follow. Once I'm confident everything is honky-dory, I'll glue the track down with caulk and then start with the scenery.

    Thanks for the help guys.
     
    mtntrainman, MK and Metro Red Line like this.
  5. Ravindra

    Ravindra TrainBoard Member

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    I use ME code55 tracks on my N scale layout and i love them.
     
  6. Onizukachan

    Onizukachan TrainBoard Supporter

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    I suggest white glue. That way you can take still them off later to reuse. Caulk can work as well as long as it is clear silicone type, but it doesn’t harden or adhere as well, in my personal opinion. I only use it to glue flex track as that is effective.y disposable.
     
  7. bigGG1fan

    bigGG1fan TrainBoard Member

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    I'm using Aileen's tacky glue. Tried hot glue and it changed the track geometry, and made it difficult to change the track without tearing up the foam and rendering those pieces more or less unusable.


    Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
     
    MK likes this.

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