<font color="336633">after ages of looking i finally managed to pick up a Kato GP38-2, its in CSX and will be repainted into UP, it was rather expensive for an old model (£65 aprox $94)but i supose its high due to it being rare, and i dont care as i got it now! </font> ------------------ Matthew wheres all the C636's???? stickymonk.com Matts Photo gallery TrainBoard member #257
They are great aren't they. I have one in CP colours. Notice, our spelling hasn't been Americanised yet. ------------------ Robin member #35 Maberly and Tayside
Well I'm glad you guys like the Kato GP38's, I hate the one I have, it is the most frustrating loco I have. They are a pain to work on and I can even figure out what is wrong with mine! You want another one, ill give ya better price then that! LOL Kevin
I loved my GP-38-2 for many years but time and age caught up with the old boy. Finally, because of the desire to switch to DCC, I replaced the guts with a Atlas GP40-2. Put in a digitrax decoder and it runs like a dream. Probably isn't 100% prototypical but its better than the alternative. Hope yours works well though. Bryan [This message has been edited by bmalonef45 (edited 09 December 2000).]
i got my gp 38 and did a little work(greasing and cleaning) and now it runs better than it did when it was new.but now it is painted up in the bn pacific pride paint scheme. ------------------ anyone need a car call ed pinkley,home of the pinkley taurus.
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by bmalonef45: because of the desire to switch to DCC, I replaced the guts with a Atlas GP40-2. Put in a digitrax decoder and it runs like a dream. Probably isn't 100% prototypical but its better than the alternative. (edited 09 December 2000).]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> <font color="336633">well if your GP38 had the large fuel tank option then it would be correct, i also will be wanting to add DCC but i have the tools to mill the chassis down to fit the decoder </font> ------------------ Matthew wheres all the C636's???? stickymonk.com Matts Photo gallery TrainBoard member #257
Am I correct weren't there 2 releases of these units. The versian I had had a different frame than normal. I purchased this unit after getting my first tax return from my first job when I was 16. The handrails actually screwed in to plates beneath them to make contact with the trucks. Is this the same frame as some of you may have. Another reason I replaced the frame was it had taken the big tumble off the table and never quite ran the same. I figured after 14 years it was time to change. Thanks for the info on the fuel tank Matthew I don't think I knew that.
I finally found one at a local show, except that some genius decided to replace the factory Milwaukee paint (which is what I was after) with Soo's candy-apple red! UGH! In retrospect I should have gotten it anyway for my DT&I modeling, I suppose I'll have to use Life-Like GP38-2's now... ------------------ Brian Schmidt railohio@hotmail.com ICQ #21630753 AIM - railohio
Beemer, there were 2 releases of the 38-2. They had a different flywheel/worm set-up, with the second release being the same as the GP50. They did, consequently, use different handrail moldings, pick-up plates (under the walkways holding the trucks), and frame halves. Brian, try stripping (shudder) the Soo paint off . Kato's paint is quite resilient and may not be touched if given a few short quick baths. ------------------ Gary A. Rose The Unofficial TC&W page TrainBoard Moderator and Member No.377 N to the Nth degree!
<font color="336633">I have striped my one down to look at the drive and it was covered in fluff and what looks like brush bristles, the one i have has 2 metal plates that holds the trucks in place these plates are screwed to the frame by the screws that hold the light and contact strip on. After cleaning it out and greaseing it it runs better but is rather noisy and still dont run that good, its ok at swtiching speeds but at line speed it sounds like the flywheels are unballanced.... gonna have to play about with it to see if i can make it better. talking about getting rid of the paint what shall i use to remove the Kato paint? its not that its thick its just that yellow dont cover very well and i dont want to be able to see the large CSX under it. </font> ------------------ Matthew wheres all the C636's???? stickymonk.com Matts Photo gallery TrainBoard member #257
StickyMonk, A word of advice. 91% Isopropyl alcohol. I have used ELO and others and needless to say this is the safest and most inexpensive route. ELO has a tendency to 'dry' out the shell and cause it to become brittle. Use multiple baths of the stuff and let it soak for a while, I have used this process for about 6 GP38/50 shells from the first and second runs and no problems have arisen. Have a good one, Justin May
i have also used the rubbing alchohol but only to remove the factory numbers off of kato units.it works very well.i stripped my milwaukee road gp38 with pinesol and then painted a grey primer coat so you cant see what paint is underneath it.it is a fine looking bn pacific pride unit now. ------------------ anyone need a car call ed pinkley,home of the pinkley taurus.
I'm with Justin on the ELO - it kills Kato shells. I didn't know about the isopropyl alcohol, though. Gary. ------------------ Gary A. Rose The Unofficial TC&W page TrainBoard Moderator and Member No.377 N to the Nth degree!
<font color="336633">well i been looking at it again and the problems seem to be in the trucks, the motor (which must be old as its not skew wound) and flywheels seem to run ok, not as quiet as later Katos but what can i expect from an old loco. im going to dismantal the trucks and wash them out, then have a look at the gears. there also seems to be a lot of slop in between the axel and the gears, they can almost come out of mesh, might have to put a washer in to stop that. the quest continues......... ------------------ Matthew wheres all the C636's???? stickymonk.com Matts Photo gallery TrainBoard member #257
Matt,Some FYI for you. The KATO GP-38 predates the ATLAS/KATO union by several years.You may have noticed that any KATO built after that runs a whole lot smoother and quieter. I have a KATO GP-50 that is one cantankerous loco.If I keep the wheels polished it runs almost as well as my newer ATLAS and KATO units,but the slightess bit of dirt and it runs like (oops can't say that in here ).Still it did survive a 6' drop to a concrete floor with nothing but a broken rear pilot. ------------------ Catt!#118 - Moderator and A freelancer to the end http://members.fortunecity.com/boylerwerx/
