Well I have a Before video for sure. Now I'll make a After video. Now that you mention it, it will be fun to see IF we can even noticed the difference I can say it looks different in real life, but picture or video, we will see
Convert half your fleet, run them together to show the difference, then finish the conversion of the other half.
It's all converted already, all 3 of them. I am done, and not taking them apart again at this point. Don't want to lose a Orange diffuser
You can hardly tell the difference in the video cause of the phone camera. But in real life it is very noticeable! Before After If you play both videos at the same time there is a slight difference! Still looks better in real life! Some of them still blink, I'll fix in the future
Not really, took me a few hours in the middle of the night A miracle I did not lose a orange diffuser!
They do look different! At least from the video, I like them with the orange filter! Note to self, next time you open them up for maintenance....
Would adjusting voltage change the color of our HO LED lighting? Does your Kato kit run by an internal battery (or off the rails)? Am thinking a buck/boost here, connected to my 24v pulse modulator (for switch power), can adjust the output voltage from 0.5 to 30v giving a varied lighting effect? LED voltage drop: The amount of power needed, in volts, for the LED to light properly. This value is usually provided by the manufacturer. Also known as forward bias voltage of just forward voltage. If you are not sure of your LED voltage drop use this table for common 3mm or 5mm LEDs. Infrared: 1.6v Red: 1.8 to 2.1v Orange: 2.2v Yellow: 2.4v Green: 2.6v Blue: 3.0 to 3.5v White: 3.0 to 3.5v Ultraviolet: 3.5v (credit: table is from "?" here. My 1st attempt at 'scenery' - switch power is inside 'the diner' with % throttle mounted outside the kitchen's side door)
I have used that little filter that comes with the set and it doesn’t do much for the color. The light is still a blueish white.
in2tech and all, I have been working on upgrading the KATO lights in a recent SP daylight set that I purchased last October. Here is a before : Way too obtrusive, so here is an upgraded (?) version : This car is the 1st one that I changed around and I like the results. I know the "night time" displays the lighting much different than with room lights on. I have some more images taken with room lights on and there is still quite a difference. I have done 3 other cars and I am currently working on the tavern car with changing colors in the interior. Rather than using up this current thread, I will do a new thread showing what I have done and some cool components that I found. in2tech - sorry about hijacking your thread, the devil made me do it !
The "flicker effect" is dirty tracks and/or wheels. My lights would flicker all over the place when running at train shows. I came home and was about to tear everything apart to see what's up. But first, I try running them on my small layout at home one more time. No flicker! (I'm super anal on track cleanliness on my own layout.) Saved a lot of time and headache to tear everything apart to find out it's the tracks!
Hey anyone I have a question 'bout LED lighting in general. Am thinking of adding RG signals where main-line meets reverse-loop track and, knowing that resisters must go on the ground (-) side and reverse polarity damages LEDs, IS THERE ANY HARM if conx is "+ +" or "- -" or, in other words, just assuming they would NOT light at all (as per an "open circuit")? In other other words one lead, pos or neg, direct conx to non-directional switched power pack with other lead, again neg or pos, subject to switched track power.
Michael: As long as you are using DC current to power those LED's you do not have to worry about polarity damaging anything. Well, unless you hook stuff WardsBack AND you have a honking VDC coming from the supply. Also, the series resistor you are putting in - it does not matter which side of the LED you put it on; just as long as there is a resistor in series with the LED between power and ground. Later
