Jul 6, 2017
I am a devot ARM user! It works well with any track
Has anyone tried using the S&L hidden magnet uncouplers with Unitrack? Does it or would it work or does the Unitrack sit too high for the magnet force to work?
At one point i was considering using rare earth manets between the Unitrack ties. With the Unitrack ties being part of the molded in process putting a 'plate' witth magnets on them below the ties and plastic trackbed would probably not work. Glueing just the magnets between the ties and somewhat under the rail might. Unitrack ties are spaced further apart then other track. This might just give the room needed to get the magnets in there. Might be fun to experiment...JMO
*You can buy all kinds of small rare eath magnets even on Amazon.
I'm guessing that would be a lot cheaper then buying a rare earth magnet uncoupler system just to use the magnets.
Has anybody tried removing the magnet from a Kato uncoupling section and gluing it on the underside of a Unitrack section? It should fit, but not sure if the magnetic field would be strong enough.
That is an interesting thought.
Trying to find a way to do this from the underside without modifying the track itself. I was looking at all those rare earth magnets. I would think I could find something strong enough to work but have to wonder how that will affect other things like metal wheels, DCC boards, etc.
The magnetic uncoupling is not a must have in my Unitrack world but is a would be cool if I could have.
I have used a Bachmann undertrack magnet with Kato Unitrak with great success https://shop.bachmanntrains.com/ind...ucts_id=2764&zenid=miidbh7i2nlerbkc8o9d3jt173 .
I have also tried those circular rare earth magnets without much success.
The Bachmann magnet fits under the Unitrak and self-centers just fine. It pulls the uncoupling pins out as far as the rails, which is farther than the above-the-ties actual Unitrak uncouplers do, so it works better. It is completely invisible from the top (hence the included brakeman figure). I can still do "delayed uncoupling" with the Bachmann magnets, even with the wider swing of the coupler knuckles.
Those S&L hidden magnet uncouplers use rare earth magnets too. I dont see any magnets affecting wheels or DCC.
I do see cars being drawn to permanent magnets on the ties and "under the ties" inside Unitrak roadbed sections. That can be a nuisance if you need to spot a car close to a magnet. On the other hand, it can definitely keep a car from rolling down-grade when spotted on less-than-flat track. So, some consider it a "feature".
That is kind of what I was wondering. Could be both good and bad.
Think I will order one of these nd give it a try. Looks like the typ of solution I was hoping for. Will update how it goes whenever I get to where I can get back to the layout.
Have you considered cutting small sections out of the track base and bending the track to suit. I have had some success with this where I have cut a small V out, flexed the track to shape and either inserted a large piece to extend the radius or just glued the gap to reduce the radius. You may have to trim the track ends to make them fit, which involves a little more cutting however it does make give you more flexibility.
I can't seem to find Kato's simple grade crossing 20-021 in stock as seen here. What's up with that?
All I can find is Kato's 20-027-1 (manual) and their 20-652-1 (automatic). I prefer the rural simplicity of the 20-021.
I've been searching ebay for some time now, since I'm pretty sure Kato has discontinued them.
Not good news. I found two on eBay and the prices are insanely high, typical eBay. I might check my local hobby shop. He stocks Kato and has a lot of old inventory.
Use some atlas rerailers with a few pieces of cork roadbed...maybe
hardcoaler ive got a couple of these id be willing to let go. you can shoot me a pm if interested there n scale.......
Thanks, let me take a look and figure out how many I need. Are the packages unopened?
I use ballast from Scenic Express, you know, the guys who gave you Super Trees. What I like is it comes in different actual mesh sizes rather than just fine, medium and coarse. It also comes in different colors. Used to buy a lot of their stuff when they were local but now they relocated to Colorado and shipping becomes a problem.
TomyTec makes a few variations of their 115 kit that I liked well enough to purchase. Very similar to the Kato one Hardcoaler posted above. Doesn't look too much different than American crossings imo.
Unfortunately 20021 has been discontinued and replaced by 20026. Not exactly "like for like". You might be able to search for something you can 3D print to create the two ramps that came with 20021 on places like Thingyverse, etc. Or perhaps design and print your own if you have access to a 3D printer.
Personally, like you, I like the older 20021 myself.