Kato Unitrak Photos?

I am currently building my HO layout but I have a ton of Kato Unitrak from a trade and would like to build a hollow core door layout in N scale with it but was wondering how it looks on a layout?I know it runs well but how prototypical can you make it look? Can anyone using it post some photos so I can decide whether to use it or not.Thanks in advance.

 

It doesnt look prototypical, but I like it because it is easy to use, and runs well... As far as on a layout, yeah, it just doesnt look right, but, I am not a rivit counter, and flawless running is more important to me, than looking exactly correct.

That said, I have seen other layouts by some master modlers using Unitrac, whom ballasted it, and weathered it, and it sure did look awesome. So, yeah, it can look very nice with some work. Hopefully, some of those guys will respond to your inquiry with some pics..

 

Tbone:

Here are some photo's of the JJJ&E.The Unitrack has been weathered and ballasted. The rails have been painted first with a dark gray and then mineral red.










Have fun.....

 

The 2 layouts that come to mind are Bob's which you've already seen. The second is John Sing's layout. His forum name is atsf_arizona. You can see his profile here. If you click the 'About Me' tab on his profile you'll see a link to his home page which has so many pictures and tips, etc. about unitrack painting and ballasting. Anyway, between searching for posts by Bob and John on Unitrack I'm not sure there's anything you won't find!

 

Here's a few shots of mine:

 

Wow looks great rmansker. I had originally planned to make a door layout using Unitrack. Personally the tie spacing and the height of the rail are not what bothers me about it. It's the curve of the diverging track after a switch. Also the fact that 2 #6's can't make a correctly spaced cross over keeps me up at night.

I really hope the Atlas True Track kicks Kato in the butt to make some more pieces.

Broader curves, #8s, #6's that can make a crossover...etc.

Rmansker, what methods did you use for painting the rail, ties, etc?

 

DaveWonders, thx for the reference. RMansker and PowerSteamGuy, always good to see your Unitrack. Tbone, here's a couple of pictures:

http://home.comcast.net/~j.sing/Peavine_Layout_Overview.html

Here's the ballasted Kato Unitrack N scale layout:







You can also see some basic Kato Unitrack painting experiments of mine at:

ATSF_Arizona Vol 1: Kato Unitrack Painting/Ballasting pictures from trains photos on webshots

I hope it helps!

 

Just the same as with regular track, airbrushed from above and the sides after it was put down, and then ballasted like regular track, except around the turnouts.

 

Here's a section I ballasted using Woodland Scenics grey blend:



The picture isn't the best. Outer rails and unijoiners painted. I might experiment with a wash in the future.

 

Running "As-Is"

I'm in the middle of building a Woodland Scenics Scenic Ridge styrofoam layout kit (Christmas break, while the better half gets the layout table for her HO Christmas garden), and I've glued down the Unitrack to terrain.
As I look at the bare white plaster cloth with the Unitrack on it and watch my Athearn Challenger drag 10 pieces of Kato Broadway LTD around it, I think, "Why bother to ballast? It looks great as is!"
That, plus my experience with Unitrack being the closest thing to bulletproof that I've EVER FOUND in N or HO (I converted my wife to it after 20 years of Atlas Snap Track, then Bachmann EZ-Track, then Atlas True-Track, Life-Like Power-Loc - never mind, gimme the Kato! Yeah, it's bloody expensive, but then, anything free is worth what you paid for it!
It looks good, it runs GREAT, and with the finish Kato puts on it, you don't HAVE to paint, ballast, or do anything with it, except keep it clean so the electricity runs to the engines and cars. And that's true with ANY track!
Now, I'm a lazy railroader; I'm not in this hobby to count rivets, or check teeth in my engineers and conductors, and I'm not going to inspect my crummy's pot-bellied stove for grease in the frying pans, or hospital corners on the bunks. I don't care if the Challenger is burning #2 Anthracite or #2 Fuel Oil, or running extra electrons through the DCC decoder, as long as everything is working correctly. I just like to watch trains run and when I tell then to stop, drop a box and pick up a TOFC, or make a flying pass for a mail run, things happen the right way. When there are passengers waiting at Union Station, I expect them to get prompt, courteous service. If the Amtrak Superliner has an Acela engine instead of a P42, well, too bad; the -42 had a cracked headlight lens this morning. Deal with it.

Sorry about the ranting polemic, but it was building up, like gas, and I had to burp. I do that once in a while.

It's just that fanatic rivet counters drive me bug nuts; in fact, they drove me OUT of IPMS - THEY want to build miniature planes, tanks, ships, trains, and cars.
I just want to have FUN.

 

Stuff like this doesn't just help. For a perenial armchair modeler like me. It can be like the rosetta stone unlocking entire worlds of understanding.

One question for Mr. Sing.
In the notes for your Painting/Balasting pictures on webshots (2nd link above) you wrote the following:

I noticed that the word brush was not preceeded by the word 'air'.
Then you stated:

Am I to understand that you got these results using a PAINTbrush and rubbing your finger down the center of the track to reveal a bit of the original black color between the rails?

I have been looking to do this very thing with some Lionel Fastrak
Sir, you are my hero. :worship2::worship2::worship2::worship2:

 

Hi, Jonrail,

That's correct, I used a small mini-paintbrush,
and then my finger.

The brand name is of the little paint brushes is
"Ultrabrush" (I used the black colored ones in the lower right
of the following picture for most of the work, and if necessary
I used one of the other 'Microbrush' styles for getting into
really tight spots). You can find it at most hobby shops:



MicroBrush and Ultrabrush Manufacturer's Web Site

Good luck and glad it could be of some help.

 

I have been out of N for about 5 years now. I have been in Z but I still have my door kato unitrack door layout. The track is painted and lightly ballasted and integrated into the scenery with layers of ground foam on the edges.

 

Here is a closer view.

 

And another just to see how you can disguise the toylikeness of the track.

 

For you guys that paint the rails: what brand of paint or type?

For ballasting what glue did you use?

 

I used Pollyscale Railroad Tie Brown then ballasted with diluted white glue about 1/2 & 1/2 I think.

 

Awesome photos guys.I think you guys have convinced me to go with Kato Unitrak.I really appreciate the close up shots.:thumbs_up::thumbs_up:

 

You can ballast it, but it takes time