Over the last two weeks I have been working a Z scale case layout. I drive a Miata, making transporting 2'x4' modules to shows impossible, but a case layout will fit. I have wanted to build one of these for a long time, but finding a case with a usable depth is difficult. Most briefcases are only 11” front to back, and guitar cases are in the 13” range. I wanted more like a 3'x2' hardshell case. After much searching, and not finding anything, I decided just to buy one of the larger cases I could find. I settled on a TZ Case 6 pistol gun case 25”x15”x4.25” (24+3/8”x 4+3/8” interior PN:TZ0025SD). The case is well built , comes with two keyed latches and a 3 digit combo lock. Once I got the case I started working on a track plan. I ended up settling on a design that uses 140mm or 5.5 inch radius curves, which is slightly smaller that Marklins minimum 145mm track requiring flex track throughout. Ive tested this radius with MTL and AZL 4 axle diesels, and a Marklin 2-6-0, all of which work coupled to 50' rolling stock. It needed 4 to 4.5% grades for the up and over design. My goal is to make a miniaturized version of the Williams loop. The track plan was made in 3RD Planit which has Z scale track libraries, and the ability the make custom sections. The best part is you can print out track plans 1 to 1 scale. This comes in handy when carving the building materials. So far I have made a Styrofoam insert for the case. At the bottom is a 1/4” thick plywood as a base, then 1/4” Styrofoam. Next comes a 1.5 inch thick slab of foam that was carved heavily. First the sections that would be grades were removed and the grades were cut. Then all sections were glued back together and the rest of the carving was done. The insert is a total of 2” thick and fits slightly recessed in the bottom of the case, and is removed somewhat easily.
Because my carving of the grades was not 100% perfect I wanted a put down something that would help smooth out any imperfections. I decided to use styrene plastic, and the cheapest source of a large section of it is a large for sale sign. I cut the track plan out of it, and installed it into the case. This idea turned out so well that I'm not sure if I'm going to bother putting down cork road bed. I'll have to see if sound is a problem with it. Right now I'm just waiting on an order of track to keep progress going. I also don't know how I'm going to power it. Ztrack Center was sold out of the Zthek power supplies, and I'm not sure if Lajos will be making any more. I saw the Jorger was being sold in Germany so I may order one of those. This is what it will look like when I get some track, but for now its just a paper cut out of the track plan.
I still have lots of circuits for the universal controllers, and finishing a good chunk of them this weekend. Rob will have this batch by mid-week. After I'm done with the last batch, the saga continues on different channels, so you can plan on this controller.
Excellent choice. Looking forward to seeing the progress. Next GTE show in Daly City is Feb 27-28. Bring it by !!! .
Looks great! If I might make a suggestion, when you lay the flex which I am guessing will be MT flex? Perhaps you may want to use double sided sticky tape. If you can get the black or gey variety. Not only would it hold your track in place, but you could put an initial layer of ballast. Then after things are running like you want you could do a more complete job by glueing additional ballast in place but at least you'd have a base down that would make the job a touch easier. Just a thought.
Lajos, I'm glad to hear that you are still in the power supply business. One will hopefully find its way to me in the next two weeks. The track will be all MT flex, and I'll consider the sticky tape tape method. I'll give it a try in a few days and see if it will work for me. I'll keep you guys updated as progress is made. This weekend I worked on making the tunnel/bridge. The prototype is a cement structure so I built mine out of sheet styrene. It took a few paper mock ups to get the shape right for the layout. One opening is larger than the other because its on a curve and needs the extra clearance. On the underside of the tunned I filled the curvature with lightweight spackle. Turned out pretty well. Installed on the layout And now I'm going to go make some potato soup.
Well Ive been working slowly on getting the track laid for the my case layout. The track came in a few weeks back and I spent some time working some bugs out of one of the turnouts. I decided to go with Micro-Trains manual turnouts because I didn't want to deal with mounting turnout motors, or providing AC power for the automatic versions. The one problem turnout had a large step between the frog and the points because the frog on that end was sticking up too far from the level of the rail. The points were also not making good contact to the rail, and were not getting power. After some filing, and bending, and more filing, and bending the turnout was working fine. The second turnout worked fine out of the box. What I ended up using for road bed was 3/32” cork sheet that I cut the track plan out of just in the same way I did the sign plastic. That way I didn't have to bend any cork around the tight radius curves. The 3/32” cork is little too thick and I had to put some styrene sheet under the turnouts to get them to be even with the flex track. Using 1/16” cork sheet would have been a better choice, but 3/32” is what they sell at the local craft store. Almost all of my available rolling stock (60' and less) make it around the curves and and through the tunnel without problems. The only cars that wont work are my Micro-Trains passenger cars (80') which will derail on the tight curves, and look ridiculous trying. And this is no knock against MTL since I am running curves which are slightly smaller than Marklins minimum. My Marklin 2-6-0 can just pull 2 cars up the 4-5% grades and then travels at warp speed down hill, but has no problems making it around the curves. My Zthek power supply showed up and works well. I'm currently deciding on weather to incorporate the electronics into the case, or to just have a port on the back of the case that I can plug anything into. I'm currently running trains in circles looking for problem spots. Ive already fixed a few. I also ran over to the Train Shop in Santa Clara this morning to pick up some Arizona Rock Co. supplies for scenery and Ballast. Starting in on scenery is my next task.
Looks very precise and clean, but before starting with the scenery, don't forget to weather the rails. Keep in mind, the best scenery work can be overshadowed by shiny rails. I still have a few "bare naked" controller circuits, if you want to go with the built in, contact me.
Cool ! Bring that to the GTE show at the Cow "Palais" on 27-28th !!! I'll bring mine and Jim should have all his stuff too. .
Lajos, you talked me into it. And today was a good day to do some airbrushing. I painted the rails from the side with boxcar red, and then straight down with oily black to paint the ties. I put down some ballast to show how it will look, but its not glued down. The challenge will be getting the turnouts to look right now, but I'm glad I did it. I'll try to get it to a presentable state by the 27th.
Cool ! That's the way to do it. Those simple steps are the inspirational basis. Now, wasn't that easy ?!? Spread to ballast like have, mist with 'wet water' (1qt + couple drops of dishwash soap), drown (literally) with 1:1 white glue+water+couple drops of soap again (it will look VERY white drowning wet). But in the morning, it will all be gone, dry, with NO glue residue. .
More slow-going progress. Ive been working on getting a base coat of rock work put down and some minor electrical work. Along the steepest cliffs I made some plaster rocks and and stained them with sienna, umber and black washes from the acrylics I had for Toms weathering tutorial. They turned out pretty good and mask the steep drop and closeness of the two tracks. They also provide a nice ledge to pat some ballast on for the upper tracks. I then put down a solid covering of Arizona Rock Co. Low desert soil, which simulates a high mountain or western US desert soil very well. Later I'll cover most of it up with static grass and or ground foam. I should have all the ballasting of the track done by the end of the week. I'm not going to rush any of the scenery before the 27th. I'll just sprinkle some foam and then vacuum it off later. For electrical I just wired it quickly to a jack in the back and will control the power from outside the case for now.
Excellent ! I really like that larger case. Are you bringing that to the Cow Palace next weekend ? Do you have trees and shrubs? I can bring my scenery boxes if you want to work on it. Shows like to see 'how to's. .
