N scale decals number boards

Trashman Mar 13, 2016

  1. Trashman

    Trashman TrainBoard Member

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    guys I know this may not want to be what you want to read but I can not be the only one who feels this way.

    Your doing some decaling and now it's time for the number boards. Why in the world are the numbers so damn close together. Does this make any since to ANYONE?

    Why is it that we N scalers get cheated out of every damn thing! You look at the HO decal sheet and there is plenty of room to cut your numbers mix and match without destroying anything more then you need to. The funny thing and this is what makes me laugh the most. There is PLENTLY of room to space the numbers out on the N scale decal sheet.

    I hope someone who has any pull at Microscale is reading this.

    Yes a small rant for Sunday evening coffee.

    Know I pray for peace for you and your eyes

    Arthur
     
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  2. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    It's been a long time since my last doing any number boards. Your complaint does seem to stir a memory or two.
     
  3. Hardcoaler

    Hardcoaler TrainBoard Member

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    I also find that the N Scale decal sheets provide digits that are too tall for the locomotive number board inserts.
     
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  4. Pie39

    Pie39 TrainBoard Member

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    Yes, yes, yes a hundred times. It's a tough situation, if the top or bottom of the number bends up onto the top of the cab.
     
  5. randgust

    randgust TrainBoard Member

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    Do John Sing's thing on numberboards using Microsoft Excel and adhesive labels. After I did that, I never looked at struggling with individual digit decals again.
    The tutorial on that seems to be missing, but basically print them reverse image in Excel and just keep resizing them for the font size. Test on regular paper, trim out to fit, when you finally get them just right print out on adhesive label stock.

    I'm doing a lot of custom CF7 builds of my kits, and if I couldn't do that, I think I'd go crazy as those number boards are so small. I used to use old Microscale sets that had a white background and black but individual digits never looked this good:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2016
  6. Eagle2

    Eagle2 Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    I'm with randgust on this, although I've simply printed on paper and used white glue to attach
     
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  7. Inkaneer

    Inkaneer TrainBoard Member

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    I did likewise. First, I printed the numbers I wanted making sure I had twelve of every number just in case of goof ups, slip ups and any other gremlins that might be lurking about. All the numbers I need easily fit on a single sheet of paper. Then I went to Kinko's ( are they still around?) and had them reverse the colors so that instead of having black numbers on a white background I had white numbers on a black background. I then sealed the numbers with a spray clear coat both front and back. Then came a coating of Future floor acrylic front and back. I applied to the plastic number boards with some more Future acrylic. If my memory serves me correctly I printed the numbers in 3pt type using my Microsoft Works 6.0 which I can't use anymore thanks to Windows 10. But that is another subject altogether.
     
  8. barlowfaudio

    barlowfaudio TrainBoard Member

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    Same goes for the number and lettering sheets I like for patches. At least open up the space between each line of numbers so they are easier to cut out.
     
  9. tehachapifan

    tehachapifan TrainBoard Member

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    Then there's also the light-able numberboard numbers from Microscale, which I installed in my latest N scale SW1500 bash...

    [​IMG]

    These were really small and close together on the sheet too. I guess this spacing would work well if you're lucky enough to get at least a few of the numbers you need already all together. I think I got the 2 and the 6 together at least.
     
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  10. sandro schaer

    sandro schaer TrainBoard Member

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    i print my own decals. no prob to do any numberboards
     
  11. JDG

    JDG TrainBoard Member

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    Me too Sandro. The Alps is handy.
     
  12. tehachapifan

    tehachapifan TrainBoard Member

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    you have an Alps? Aren't those as rare as can be these days?
     
  13. SP-Wolf

    SP-Wolf TrainBoard Supporter

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    I have to throw in my endorsement of John Sing's technique. I too print my number boards on plain white paper. Cut and glue. Works like a charm.

    Regards,
    Wolf
     
  14. JMaurer1

    JMaurer1 TrainBoard Member

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    White decal paper, print, cut, transfer, done.
     
  15. SOO MILW CNW

    SOO MILW CNW TrainBoard Supporter

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    I can sympathize with my n scale brethren,, number boards are a hassle,,but
    ,[​IMG]
    I use shell scale decals, I first place the numbers on the backrounds provided, then seal them with a protective coat of decal sealer. I let them sit for a couple of days just cause. When I was ready I cut the whole assembly and placed on the loco. In the picture above I made sure to use the correct type of numbers for the prototype,, ( I am a stickler for that). Drives me crazy.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    An optivisor comes in real handy,,lol

    I should mention that I cut the assembly oversize as to span the area, so they are suspended over the light board, make sense?

    Adios, Wyatt
     
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  16. SOO MILW CNW

    SOO MILW CNW TrainBoard Supporter

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    Here is one with white numbers and black backround. Alco numbers tend to be smaller than the GE and EMD numbers. Here I just used the existing black backround and placed separate numbers. Yes I know,, sometimes hard to see but I know its done.:D

    [​IMG]

    I hope what ever method you choose works best for you.

    http://www.shellscale.com/

    I also like how most numbers are in pairs, Like the CNW SD45 numbers were paired,, 65 and 68. That made it much mo betta.

    Adios, Wyatt
     
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  17. randgust

    randgust TrainBoard Member

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    Probably the only thing I can add is that an itty-bitty bit of ACC won't make inkjet ink run, where any white glue or waterbase derivative will, at least for me.

    I have access to a good laser Ricoh printer, but it has a nasty habit of detaching label stock in all those internal rollers, and I could replace an entire inkjet printer for the price of one service call on the Ricoh.
     
  18. bman

    bman TrainBoard Member

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    Unless I'm modeling a specific unit, which is rare these days. I can usually find a unit number or 2 in a 4 number sequence on a Microscale sheet. I've gotten lazy and have found this saves a bit of time for me. I also print my own just using this el cheapo HP inkjet printer I have if need be. I basically use John Sings method but use the inkjet paper instead of adhesive labels. It's worked well for me. At times it can be a bit trying though.
     
  19. Hardcoaler

    Hardcoaler TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for that website Wyatt -- I like what I see!
     
  20. pastoolio

    pastoolio TrainBoard Member

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    +1 for using shellscale decals for number boards. Like them better than microscale.
     

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