I am trying to get a handle on how to program the ESU decoders both with ESU programmer and JMRI but I have run into a few roadblocks. I have my digitrax decoders programmed for rule 17 lighting and I can't figure out how I can go that with the ESU decoders. I'm sure that it is easy...so that's why I can't figure it out. Also, I have some Scale Train BNSF GEVOs that come programmed with function 2 activating both the horn and the bell. While it might be prototypical (I'm not sure), I would like to have separate control over F1 and F2. I also see that it looks fairly straight forward to install an ESU sound decoder in a KATO SD70ACe with limited milling for the speaker/enclosure on top of the rear frame. Would there be an off the shelf enclosure and speaker recommendation (that is best for sound)? The ACe has a lot of frame depth that can be reduced; unlike many of my other KATO locos. This would be my first sound decoder in a loco; I don't know why I'm so hesitant to start doing this as I've done soundtraxx installs in 2 of my Challengers - years ago Any help and comments would be appreciated. Brian
Hi Brian. Rule 17 lighting is set on the Function Outputs page of the LokProgrammer or JMRI software. However, I do this a bit differently, taking advantage of ESU's ability to have two different "programs" for each light. If you e-mail me directly at jdcolombo at gmail, I'll send you a PDF that explains how to use JMRI to set up function keys and special lighting effects on a LokSound. As for the Kato sound install, you might want to look at the photos in the following thread over at The Railwire (you might have to register - free - to see the photos): https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=44230.0 John C. EDIT: For a speaker, I'd use a 9x16 cell-phone ("sugar cube") type speaker. If you look at the photos in the TRW link above, you can see how you can put a speaker into a fairly shallow enclosure, but "extend" the enclosure in length so that there is sufficient air volume to get good sound. A 9x16mm speaker needs about 800 cubic mm of internal air space in the enclosure to sound its best. If you use an enclosure that is 5mm high (not counting the thickness of the bottom), you'd probably be OK with a simple box, but I'd extend that box to 20mm long to get more air volume (5x9x20= 900). If all you have is enough depth for a 4mm-high enclosure (again, not including the thickness of the bottom), then I'd extend the length of the enclosure to 25mm (4x9x25=900). You probably don't need to do any milling at all for a speaker to get really good sound if you use this enclosure technique.
