N scale "What's on your workbench?"

Mark Watson Oct 28, 2009

  1. BigJake

    BigJake TrainBoard Member

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    A long coal drag would be perfect, with coal ca
    That, or I was even wondering if the "humps" of coal in open hoppers would do well as the eyes of the diamonds...
     
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  2. BigJake

    BigJake TrainBoard Member

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    And of course, the caboose painted like the rattles! Maybe even with some intentional wobble.
     
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  3. Shortround

    Shortround TrainBoard Member

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    I would go with the local Pine Snake.
     
  4. Grey One

    Grey One TrainBoard Supporter

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    Skip the caboose. Put a REAL rattle snake rattle on a flat car rigged such that it *could* rattle.
    You now have 3 months to make this happen. ☻
    When I wargamed in 1/285 scale, (and my vision was a lot better), I painted quite a few units in western reptile colors.
    I'd suggest:
    2 bay covered hoppers
    Sprayed light sand
    Make a template of the diamonds
    2 per side of the cars
    Have fun. ☻
     
    BigJake likes this.
  5. freddy_fo

    freddy_fo TrainBoard Member

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    Going to add interior lighting to this diesel railcar. This already has a zimo sound decoder so should be a simple matter of plugging into one of the unused function outputs. Not so simple is figuring out how to separate the physical outputs from the sounds that are assigned to the same input keys. Worst case lighting will come on when I turn on the main drive sound.

    20211012_150109.jpg
     
  6. Massey

    Massey TrainBoard Member

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    My order from PowerWerx was in the mail box here today, so I get to build the wiring harnesses for my modules that do not yet have one.
     
  7. BigJake

    BigJake TrainBoard Member

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    I like the real rattle on a flat car idea (with wobbly wheels)!

    For a 1:1 train, normally only viewed from the side, the diamond pattern on the side would make sense.

    For a model train, usually viewed at least somewhat from above, the diamonds should be centered on the tops of the cars, draping over the sides, as they would on a real diamondback rattlesnake's body.

    Alas, I have none of the skill to execute this (except affixing a rattlesnake rattle on a wobbly flatcar).
     
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  8. Massey

    Massey TrainBoard Member

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    Well no wobbly rattlesnake cars for me… at least not tonight. I did kill a rattlesnake once when I was about 11 years old. I was camping and riding my bike in the trails at the camp ground. I was chasing my cousin and the snake jumped out to lash at him, missed and I ran it over as I passed. Right over its head too. We took the snake back to grandpa and he threw it in a cooler filled with ice. We went home a few days later, and a few months later grandpa had a new rattlesnake belt. He gave me the tail which I had for years till time finally turned it into powder.

    Now onto trains… I fixed a few issues with a module, and I also created a wiring harness for the modules. I incorporated a “Y” harness into both ends so it will serve as power feed and an extension. See below… it only feeds 2 modules about 3 feet apart.

    Sorry for the lighting, it’s horrible in my house at night. If you all want I can get a better pic tomorrow when the sun is still out.
    E287EF84-BBB5-410B-B3C2-5BFE3EC4697E.jpeg
     
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  9. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    [​IMG]
    Working on U25B to try and get rid of noise and run better. Waiting on some supplies just ordered. Already got LaBelle #102 oil. Now waiting on clips to test motor although it moves freely by hand. Want to check for noise by motor?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  10. John Moore

    John Moore TrainBoard Supporter

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    I just received some cardstock structures from a Canadian company. Their name is on the flyer behind them. Five buildings in a set and they threw in a bonus set of two structures. Excellent art work and the structures are perforated at the bend lines. Even with my old fingers the building went together easily. There were five buildings in the set and with the bonus buildings I ended up with seven structures. The vendor recommends using Krylon non yellowing finish to protect the structures once together. I used Krylon workable fixatif from my art box that is used to protect artwork to spray a light coat overall.



    I recently had received some 3D printed buildings that came from China and found them poor quality and the parts a very poor fit. Not only are these cardstock structures 100% better, they were cheaper and no painting required. In the next week I will make a 2nd order for a Mexican Restaurant and a news stand.
     
  11. Shortround

    Shortround TrainBoard Member

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    I looked it up and see some interesting models. I made a link for the future. Hopefully soon.
     
  12. Massey

    Massey TrainBoard Member

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    I just finished repairing and installing a decoder into a brass N Scale SD70MAC. I can’t say I want to do that again any time soon.
     
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  13. freddy_fo

    freddy_fo TrainBoard Member

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    Got the interior lighting installed on the railcar. The mostly blacked out windows in the lead car are due to a metal weight/heatsink so unless I remove that I will have to live with it. I couldn't figure out how to separate the engine sound and F01 output on the zimo decoder so lights come on with the engine. I can mute the engine though through another function which means I can run the lights without sound but not the other way around. The light boards are fleischmann LED analogs that I had leftover from another project where I went digital instead. They come with a built in flicker cap which works well to keep the lighting steady/realistic.

     
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  14. Massey

    Massey TrainBoard Member

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    OK so I was able to get the stain on my 4 corner modules tonight. I will sand them and make them look distressed just like my other modules tomorrow. I will get pics then!
     
  15. freddy_fo

    freddy_fo TrainBoard Member

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    Came across a real life photo of a graffitied ACF 3 bay hopper that has a saying capturing the current zeitgeist. It was a crappy lo-res photo but with the help of photoshop filters I think I was able to create a printable version with a little bit of fudging for some of the less important elements. I've been working with Matthew over at circus city decals to do the actual printing if we can make it work.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2021
  16. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    Looks like I have bad motors for my two Atlas U25B's. So until Atlas gets back to me about the correct ones to order, and if they are in stock, I am on hold for this project!
     
  17. Massey

    Massey TrainBoard Member

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    Ok so I finished wiring my Nightmare module and I also built the harnesses for it and my haunted house module. I have had some people ask about how I build my harnesses so I will write up a little explanation for the T-trak thread as that is essentially where they go.

    Here are the completed harnesses. These show the harness a bit better than the last time I posted a pic about them.
    62B52A32-7957-48F4-9A21-17045D6EDB44.jpeg
     
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  18. John Moore

    John Moore TrainBoard Supporter

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  19. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    [​IMG]
    Was a VO-1000 in the middle, and U25B off to left waiting on new motors and shipment delayed by storm’s somewhere in the USA . Main reason to post is to show my mess of a workbench. And it’s temporary too. Have to clean that crap up when done. It’s also my adjustable L for my other base. How do we do this?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  20. 308GTSi

    308GTSi TrainBoard Member

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    Hi Carl,

    Great project , I'm looking forward to an update.

    I'm also working on an Kato SD80 and I've hit a bit of a brick wall. I'm trying to get the cab window glass out and it just won't budge. It's not glued in or anything as it has a very small amount of movement.

    Can you please tell me where I should push on it to get it out ... without breaking it that is ............ pleeeeeeeeeeeaaaase !
     
    Carl Sowell likes this.

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