Agreed - nice wheels. Can you tell us how you paint them so neatly? I'm especially impressed with the clean separation between the shiny rim and the dish of the wheel face. Thanks, Gary
Got a new yard tower for my layout (currently under construction). I was going to build a couple for Jeff (4X2DSP) but he got a couple of the TrainCat towers (very nice kit btw) so I just built one for myself. I may build another and sell it off. I've got enough railings and stairs for it. Railings and stairs are Plastruct, the balance is Evergreen. About the only thing left is to paint and add the tinted windows.
Granted, my "workbench" is the provided desk at my hotel 1900miles away from kansas in mt vernon, wa but heres what Ive been playing with. The E2 is a UP unit im building for the new kato city train. Hopefully, they will be cast after im done with the B unit. The HWs are MT cars painted in the later schemes of the late 40s-50s for my transition era Santa Fe needs. Theyre all lowered and with close but reliable coupling. (Look for an article in NSR) Adam
Gary, I brush paint being careful to avoid the tread, but I end up painting the end/tip of the axle. To remove the paint from the tip and the edge I simply poke the axle into a sanding sponge and twist a few times. If I do paint the tread I use a polishing attachment in a motor tool to clean it up while the wheels are in the frames.
skipgear: I think that is one of the best through plate girder bridges I have seen. Good idea on extending the length a panel at a time. I want to go back to some of my older plate girder bridges and add the diagonal bracing. They are commercial and don't have any bracing at all.
sp&s367 I've had this in B&O for a couple years. Never even opened the box. Finally got around to dressing it up in SP&S livery.........
I have 2 Undecorated RS1 on my desk.. Now what's that old fella up to? Its farewell C&HV( N Scale) and hello????? Stay tuned.
Super detailed an Atlas GP38 High hood I really like High Hood models and wanted SP to have this one in my inventory.I painted it applied Microscale decals, BLMA MU Hoses, Sunshades, Vapor AC, and Horn
Center span is done minus some Archer Rivet decals after the first primer coat. Bottom side up - I got a good start on the rest of the sub assemblies for the next two bridges. The girders for one bridge are done and have been glued to the first two cross beams to start the next bridge, just waiting for glue to dry. The remaining cross beam assemblies are glued together and the final girders are ready for shaping (rounding one end of the beam).
A few of the vehicles I am working on - a '47 Packard, a '50 Packard, a '49 Mercury station wagon, and a '50 Studebaker Starlight Coupe. These are the first out of the molds.
I made the molds myself, the vehicles are all shrunk down from HO scale. You can still read the M-E-R-C-U-R-Y letters on the hood of the '49 station wagon. I left off the front bumper of the Studebaker to simplify the casting. I'm thinking of using a left-over GHQ part as they give you extra ones in some of their kits.
I am putting the finishing touches on my sound box car. I purchased the parts from this vendor http://www.sbs4dcc.com/
Here are a few more vehicles, some '48 Chryslers and a '51 Nash. What's a Boley fire engine? and is there one in HO or a similar scale??
Rasputen, What method did you use to shrink the vehicles down from HO scale? Very interested in your method because I would love to use it for Z scale. John
