Hello I just installed a brand new Digitrax dcc decoder (DN163K1C) on a Kato U30C (Burlington #5327) Installation was easy I had some issue to detect the decoder with JMRI (and the engine on the programming track) But I was finally able to do program the new address #5327 But now, I can't read again the information (with the engine on prog track)...it says "No acknowledge from locomotive (error 308) and the 2 lights blink 3 times When I put the engine on the main track, I can turn lights ON and OFF with the right address (5327) but I can't have it move in forward nor in reverse When I slightly pinch the 2 motor clips on the side, the engine moves though, but stops when I remove my fingers But it seems strange though, because the 2 decoder motor clips are properly covering the motor contacts, and I really don't see what else I could do to have contact (assuming my issue is coming from a bad contact between motor contact and decoder clips) Any idea? Is the error 308 typically an error due to the contact between motor and decoder? Thanks
I would check those two motor clips again. The fact that your lights work means the decoder is getting power but no motor runs and no address read points to a motor contact problem. The command station needs to see a load before it can read/write CVs and the motor is the load. I don't use JMRI so I can't answer the 308 question.
Yes, but how? Is there any tips to create a good contact between motor contacts and decoder clips? When I look at both, I don't understand why there is no proper contact.....!
You can try bending the decoder clips a touch more since you say by pinching with your fingers the motor spins. At the same time bend the motor tabs outwards a touch more. The idea is to have greater pressure between the decoder tabs and the motor tabs. A handful of people solder wires between the decoder tabs and the motor tabs but that defeats the plug-n-play and I don't recommend that.
The Digitrax instruction sheet says to put Kapton tape in 3 spots (instruction are for SD40-2, but my engine is a U30C) I did put Katpon tape where the decoder's clips will "cover" the motor tabs (center spot), however I did not put tape on the left and right spot since: 1) I don't see where the decoder could touch the frame in these areas 2) The decoder is insulated underneath 3) Kapton tape would prevent the decoder to properly sit between 2 tiny tabs on the frame on the right spot I had to slide a tiny piece of styrene to force the 2 front tabs onto the slots Basically, the install I did for this Digitrax is almost IDENTICAL to the install sheet on the TCS website for their K1D4 decoder on a Kato GE C30-7: https://tcsdcc.com/installation/n-scale/1626 I will try to bend the decoder clips a little bit more and/or tin the motor tabs......but if it still doesn't work, I guess I will have to solder some wire jumpers !!!
Not that the styrene strip should be avoided, but because the Digitrax board is slight thinner than the original light board, people often put a dab of solder on the two (sometimes four) tabs for power pickup. Don't worry if you put too much as you can gently file them down to get a snug fit. Solder is soft and very easy to solder. BTW, what's the white thing underneath the motor clip on the decoder? Is that the white "tape" that Digitrax used to insulate the bottom of the board? Just to be clear, there is no Kapton tape anywhere in the decoder motor clips?
Yes, that tiny white thing is the insulation layer installed by Digitrax on the bottom of the board I thought about a dab of solder on the pads (top and bottom?), but thought the strip of styrene would be just good enough...Should I remove it and go with the solder? No, there is no Kapton tape between the decoder tabs and motor tabs...
I would remove the Styrene and go with the solder. With the Styrene you're stressing/flexing the board. The stress shouldn't be that great to give these board a problem but it's best to avoid it. Solder on top pads only.
So, I did remove the styrene and added 2 dabs of solder on the top of the pads..... I also bent (slightly) the 2 decoder clips inward And....................................................................it works now ! I have to do the exact same thing for my U23C now.... Thanks for all the tips
Thank you Sir......I'm comfortable with electronic soldering, I started many years ago with electronic kits It's even easier now with my TS-100 soldering iron... https://www.amazon.com/UY-CHAN-Programmable-Pocket-size-Acceleration/dp/B01MDTO6X7
Ah! The TS100. I've seen that and a few of my airplane friends (I also fly RC airplanes) have it for field usage. I've heard it's a great soldering iron. I don't solder at the field and only do it at home. I have a Hakko and a clone Hakko soldering stations (yes, two stations ). I've been soldering since I was 15 when my father worked for AT&T and he taught me. I won't tell you how old I am now. I'm glad you got everything straightened out. I know it's frustrating when things don't work but once you get everything worked out, it's a great feeling. Plus those Katos run like Swiss watches. Enjoy running your trains!
A few years ago, I found on Craigslist someone selling several Kato engines......If not brand new, they were like new. He sold them for $50 each I took 4 or 5............only !!! I regret now, I should have purchased much more than that
Well, I just installed the 2nd DN163K1C in the Kato U23C.....It was somehow painful with the same 308 error I did put some solder on the tabs, but it didn't work. Put slightly more, then could read CVs and program it. Then it stopped working again I took the board out, looked at the tabs, and I thought one was "slightly" thicker. So I filled it, and it worked I put the shell back on, run 20 inches, and it stopped working. I removed the shell, touch the board a little bit, and now it seems to work just fine Is this a usual issue with drop-in decoders? Is it due to the decoder itself (Digitrax) or the frame (Kato)? Would i have the same issue with a TCS drop in decoder? Or should I go for the next engine with a wired decoder such as ESU Lokpilot Micro 5 DCC? I did a test last year with a MRC 1808 decoder (bought on Amazon) on a Kato SD90/83MAC....and it works RIGHT AWAY (I returned it because I was not convinced about the sound and didn't want to try with a sugar cube speaker, but didn't have any issue to program the address though)
I just think you are having a spate of bad luck. Most of my decoders are Digitrax and I've installed TONS in Katos with no real issues. I think it's the motor clips and motor tabs. I think if you go TCS you might have the same problems. Did you try bending slightly the motor clips and/or tabs.
Yes I did....it's ok now, and I hope it will stay like that Don't want to have to remove the shell/jiggle the board permanently to have it run...!
I've heard (here on TB, I believe) that the TCS printed circuit boards are thicker than the Digitrax ones, which might make better contact with the frame. I have not verified that myself. However, if your lights flash when reading it on the program track, then your problem lies with the motor clips contacting both the decoder board pads and the motor tabs, and not the decoder making contact with the frame. If the frame contacts were not connecting, the lights would not blink. Note also that if the copper strips that transfer the electricity from the trucks to the frame are not making good contact, that would give the same symptoms as the decoder board not making contact with the frame. The motor clips do not appear to be soldered onto the decoder, but they could be, just on the bottom side not shown in your photos. If they are not soldered to the board, make sure they make solid, forceful contact with their pads on the decoder (since that is also the mechanical connection that holds them in place to make good contact with the motor tabs), and you might want to solder them onto the board yourself (make sure they are positioned properly when you do.) If they are soldered onto the board, make sure the motor tabs are exposed enough, and the motor clips bent in enough, to make good contact with each other.
The motor clips are soldered on the board... If I were to have the issue again, I may put a dab of solder on the motor contacts, to make sure there is more pressure onto the motor clips from the decoder And if it's still an issue...I will solder a wire jumper between both ! But for now......it works
I don't think anyone ever answered this question, yes, poor contact between the decoder and motor can cause this error. The decoder sends an acknowledgement to the programmer by pulsing the motor. This pulse causes a temporary increase in current draw and that is what the programmer detects to read the acknowledgement. With no moto load due to poor contact, there is little or no increase in current draw.
