I have an old Atlas sd7 that I bought used and was equipped with a Digitrax DZ143 (~15 years ago !!!) It was not running well (making a lot of noise) so I took it apart The wiring was somehow falling apart, and one of the PCB light board was damaged, so I decided to cut the wires anyway and re-equip with another decoder I have a DZ123 I bought a long time ago but never installed (so brand new), and I thought I could use it for this engine But because of the light board being damaged, I wonder now if a decoder such as the TCS CN or CN-GP would fit? TCS website says for an Atlas SD7/9, the decoder to be used is the MC2... But when I look at the CN (recommended for GP7/9 "old style"), I think it would be the best option since it will replace the light board as well as being a decoder -) Can someone confirm if it will work? What is the difference between the CN and the CN-GP? -) Also, looking at the picture, is the front of the engine where the engraving is (left side)? Thanks
Well, looks like I found answers to my own questions.....: http://n-scale-dcc.blogspot.com/2012/03/tcs-cn-gp-in-atlas-sd9.html
I've been putting Digitrax DZ123's and DZ126T's in engines I could of used a CN or CN-GP in because I save about $10 and have a lot of decoders to install, so you could still use the 123 if you made a light board. I've been making those fairly easily and cheaply .... They take up less room than the factory lightboards and also provide a place to pickup the track power for the decoder. Might not look as fancy as a factory lightboard but do the intended job well. They also.... .... provide the resistor and solder tab to provide power to the LED at the other end of the loco if you only run one of the lights at a time which is common. More on making them here.... http://1fatgmc.com/RailRoad/Decoder-1/page-1.html Sumner
My issue is to find some epoxy board thin enough I did a mockup yesterday with .02 styrene.....it fits just well I have some left over of PCB, but it's too thick !!!
The board I got was sold as .021 and seems to measure that but now I don't have much luck finding .021. .020 is a different story and I see it online but don't know if I can post the link here (what are the rules on eBay links?). PM me if you want it or google "FR4 Copper Clad Laminate PCB Printed Circuit Board Material" and you should find it that way also. They have .020 in single sided which would work well as I had to account for the fact mine was/is double sided PCB and cut breaks in both sides. They have the double side in a little thicker and thinner than .020. I still had to file just a slight amount off one side for the loco I was working on shown above. The .016 double sided would probably work fine if you put just a bit of solder on one side like you have been doing. Are you in France or in the US? My sheet is 12"X12" and I'll never use all of it so could mail you a piece also, Sumner
I'm in the US (Michigan).... I was also thinking to put some copper tape on my piece of styrene....not sure how it would take solder though !
I ended up stumbling upon a post-4/2006 undecorated Atlas factory-DCC-equipped (w/NCE) GP9 at a very good price, and swapped shells with my pre-2006 GP7 in ATSF Zebra-Stripe livery. The fuel tank had to be trimmed a little to fit the newer chassis. There are other drop in decoder choices for the post-4/2006. The price I paid rules out converting a fleet of them, but it worked great for my single unit.
Thanks I added them to the top of the page on my site here .... http://1fatgmc.com/RailRoad/Decoder-1/page-1.html Sumner
In answer to the original question, will a TCS CN or CN-GP work work the answer is yes and I have a post on my DCC blog from several years ago showing this type of installation using a CN-GP. https://n-scale-dcc.blogspot.com/search/label/Loco: Atlas SD7 or SD9
This looks good , but, I don’t like the idea of using Scotch tape- get some Kapton tape for holding wires in place, Scotch tape will make a mess after a bit of time
Brad your installs were my inspiration to trying a decoder install in the first place, Thanks. I still look at them anytime I'm approaching a new install that I haven't done before. I deviate at times, especially with the CN or CN-GP installs but that is just to save some money by using some cheaper decoders. Thanks for all the documentation you have done with them, Sumner
Which wires are you splicing. Mine usually are on the decoder on one end and are continuous to the motor or other solder tabs. You can find some really small shrink wrap if you need it. https://www.google.com/search?q=shr...22i29i30l2.12937j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 I do have a box of one of those shown. Sumner
The 2 motor wires (orange and grey)....i wasn't sure how to solder the wires without cutting them. Reinstall the motor back in place in the frame with the decoder attached on the other end seemed ......complicated/difficult So I cut them, recounted the 2 1/2 frames...and now I have to splice them.... I guess I should have asked first.....!!!! Maybe I can try to use a piece of Kapton tape?
For the time being you could probably isolate them with the tape with the shell off, maybe on? I'd get some of the shrink wrap tubing though and use it. I try not to since it adds bulk. The motor wire length intimidated me the most at the beginning of doing installs. Now I lay things out and tape the decoder in temporarily to see how long they need to be. Then cut them just a touch long and can usually tuck the small extra in at the end, Sumner
Well, i guess I will try to lay the splice flat on some kapton tape, and put another piece of Kapton tape on top of it... I have no clue how my "PCB" pick up board will work (and hold solder...!!!)
You can use Kapton tape to insulate a soldered joint and since they are very thin they won't give you trouble when you put the shell back on. Just put the joint on a piece of Kapton and fold it in half. Done! Next time, measure twice, cut once. If done properly these TCS CN decoders should not have any spliced wires.
Well, I guess I could take it apart (again) and rewire to avoid any splice Question: what should be the color of the leds for such engine: bright white, warn white, orange?
