Glad I could help you out. I hope it works. As a backup, perhaps soldering a pc board tie near the end of each would provide structural support if the glue doesn't hold up well. I love saving money on hobby projects.
OK, you got me here. Every now and then, my English finds its limits. Thus, I don't understand what you mean here. Could you briefly elaborate, please? I have glued eight flex tracks by now. With the intention of cutting two into smaller sections. But I have not done any cutting or other work on the tracks yet. Thus I can't say at this point how sturdy they are. I do this on the side, as my main "job" right now is to renovate part of the basement and putting up some insulation. Any suggestions on how to cut the tracks? I find using a fine saw puts relatively much strain on the connection between rail and track bed, but track cutters tend to give a less clean cut. Thus more filing is then needed which has its problems as well.
Your English is better than my German oder meine Frau's French...so while it may have its limits, I hope that someday my German is half as good as your English is...for your English is excellent! My suggestion was to use printed circuit (pc) board as ties at each end. It is very common for pc board ties to be used with hand laid track, especially at turnouts. You would remove a tie wherever you wanted to install one. Because they solder olds them rigidly to the rail, it will help the rail to maintain its curvature while adding structural strength. Here is a link to one of the outfits which sells them: PC Board Ties : Fast Tracks Model Railroad Tools & Supplies, 1-888-252-3895 I would probably just use a fine saw...and if it breaks the glue, then I'd just drop it back into your jig and re-glue it. If you soldered it to a PCB tie, it would then be able to endure lots of torque while cutting. If you can get it to work with glue alone, I'd never consider the PCB ties...but if it isn't good enough, then I'd add some PCB ties. Michael
Thanks Michael! I'll try the route with just the glue first. I'm not too good at soldering. Probably need a better tool here at some point. As for my English, it better be decent as I spent five years in the US to do my PhD from 1968 to '73. And I purposely try to keep fluent. Reading, writing (like in this forum), and talking; my different hobbies provide ample opportunities. As my oldest son lives in Chicago, we get a decent amount of exposure there as well.
Up until having my son this fall, my plan had been to complete my PhD and then spend a post-doc in Basel, Zurich, or somewhere German speaking. My dream was Vienna. Now I'm switching to an MS and just want to stay here in Cincinnati. I'd rather work as a consulting engineer than to be in academia at this point. Chicago is a fine city. I hope that you were able to enjoy your time here! What part of Switzerland do you live in?
I live about 10 miles from Lucerne, but I grew up in Zurich. Our first child was born while we were in Seattle. I know about financial strains that causes. (Definitely no model trains at that time!) But it all somehow worked out. His advantage now, as a US citizen he had no problems to work in the US after he had finished his studies here. Well, we are getting a bit OT, but as there are not that many participants here, I hope it's OK.
Successful first temporary On3 layout! Basically following these instructions, I finally have my long sought after On3 sectional tracks. And I could hardly wait to build my first layout. But before I go into some details, I want to publicly thank Michael for having provided an old soul with some peace of mind again! Producing these self-made sectional tracks (I did not only the basic curves, but also some shorter pieces including those needed between turnouts), was actually quite time consuming. The major job was to clear the space for the rail joiners between the rails and the ties. Like for the HOn3 tracks I had made to order some time back, I used a small drill to open the space needed. Those long curved pieces were a bit unwieldy, but they survived the rather rough handling very well. I have added two pictures showing the details of the opened parts between the rails and the ties. I then glued the rail joiners tight so as not having to worry about losing them. I used G-S Hypo Cement which I also used for additional reinforcements of the sectional tracks. Once thoroughly dry, it seems to stick fairly well. I had first seen it on eBay, and have since reordered from a cheaper source. As my wife had to go to her dentist out of town, the house was empty the whole day. Thus, I grabbed the opportunity to set up my first On3 layout in the living /dining room. A picture of part of it is attached as well. I only let one K-36 run this time. Having a train with it was more important. Almost all my On3 cars were used (all SJCC RTRs). At first, that engine produced rather bad squeaking sounds, so I had to spray some WD-40 on it. And as that was not enough for the tender, I oiled the wheels, or rather the axles. But I had to clean the tracks three times that afternoon. Anyway, the sound was fine afterwards for most of the time. Seems that the engine gets louder again as the motor heats up. Overall, I must have let the train run for hours, but with interruptions. Well, it's all stashed away again. The next time I can do something like this, another engine will get her run-in time.
Second set of sectional On3 tracks I have not really done that much regarding my NG models lately. But I have started to do a second set of sectional tracks in the same manner described earlier. The idea is to have a somewhat larger circle to run two trains either in parallel or in opposite directions on a temporary layout. For the first circle, I used six full-length PSC flex-tracks. That resulted in a radius of just a little over 34 " or about 87 cm. For the second circle, I debated whether I should do one with seven or eight pieces. Using seven of them would not even have allowed to do half circles like for an oval. So that seemed to be out of the question. However, with a convenient eight sections of full-length 3' tracks, the radius would have been too large. Almost a full foot between the two circles did not make sense under the space constrictions I have even for a temporary set-up. So I decided to use a 40" (=102 cm) radius which meant cutting the flex-track such that I got eight pieces of 80 cm each. The short pieces were either completed in the manner described with fixed joiners, or I cut them up even more. Thus I ended up with a convenient set of short pieces that can be used to fill gaps or for terminal joiners or for insulation between sections. The attached picture shows the old rig I still had, now with a second jig set for the new circle. I also did some more 34" radius pieces at the same time. This time, I used only G-S Hypo Cement, but we'll see whether that is sufficient. It holds well on the metal, but not too well on the plastic material. (Edit: October 26: I had to add some cyanoacrylate glue in places to provide additional stability.) The only problem now, I need more straigt tracks again, as I used up the majority of the ones I had that were seen in one of the previous pictures. For my purposes, the new SJCC tracks are optically not satisfactory, as the central connecting plastic band can't be concealed with ballast. Thus, it's good the PSC tracks are still available. They just need a bit too much time to get rid of all the sprues and non fitting protruding parts. I presume spiking tracks on a layout is faster, but I don't want to have to store boards as well. As an aside; I have also got more HOn3 tracks from Aspenmodel. I had to wait about 6 months for them. Apparently, I was their only customer for the HOn3 size. And that size has now been discontinued, mostly because the required special glue is no longer produced. For the more sought-after smaller gauges, a new production method is being used.
lousy fit Here is the continuation of my sectional track story. After having allowed the glue to thoroughly dry, also at the joiners, I tried a test fit today. And what I had feared had actually happened. The track radius is a bit larger than planned. Thus the 8 pieces don't make a circle as they are supposed to. I need just about another half a piece to close it. The circle is then about four inches larger than originally planned. The reason for the problem is one that I was aware of, but did not take into account sufficiently. That jig does a pretty good job for bending the flex-track. However, it can't be as tight as desirable because the ties are protruding somewhat irregularly on both sides. So this resulted in a bit too much "play" around the ends. With the effect, that the ends are a bit straighter than the rest of the circle track. I think this is noticeable at the right hand side in the attached picture, where the glare highlights the straighter section. So I will have to make some smaller pieces to still allow half circles at least. Of course, the flex-tracks I'm going to use for the straight parts can also be used to compensate a bit. So it's no major problem. But I think in case someone should try to do a similar project, it would be good to know about the potential problem. Good thing I recently ordered one more package of those flex-tracks than I thought I'd really need. With the overseas shipping and customs duty (the handling fee is the same each time, both at the seller and at customs), it would be rather prohibitive to just order one pack later after one has realized that the order was a bit too small.
Today's On3 layout Finally had the opportunity to run some of my On3 stuff again. As you can see from the pictures, it basically requires moving some chairs and the dining/work table. And I need to lay some cover over the carpet part. This stuff tends to glide on the carpet. Just look at the third picture in post #27 to see what I mean. So I fixed it with masking tape today. The pictures show today's simple but curvy layout. It was quite fun to see the trains snake along. All my On3 engines are from MMI. The engine sitting on the side near the power pack, is my RGS K-27. I had intended to do my first double-heading today. This, after I had cut the wires in the tender to silence the scratchy loudspeaker. That K-27 is presently my only model with a functioning front coupler. However, when I tried to set things up, it turned out that the mudhen has her polarity reversed. So she runs in the opposite direction than either of my K-36s. Not a good precondition for a doubleheader. :hmm4er: Is there a quick way to solve the problem? Unfortunately, that mudhen has a lot of wires that run between the cab and the tender, due to its sound equipment. And the plug can't just be joined reversedly. Apparently, I also had never before tried to run my K-28. Because when I set it on the tracks, I got a general short. In the end, it turned out that one of the tender axles had been reversed in one of the trucks. Easy to fix in this case, but it became obvious that this engine had not even been on my test stand!
First double-track layout Not that it would be particularly prototypical. But I had fun yesterday with my first double-track layout. Temporary as always, of course. And it only became possible after having finished a few more of the sectional tracks (made from PSC flex tracks as suggested by Michael in this thread in post #17, just about a year ago). After having removed the bulky wire connection on my MMI K-27 of the first run, the engine no longer had problems around the curves. And a bit of WD-40 lubrication got rid of most of the somewhat grinding noise. For some reason, I could not get the lights to work, but I think RGS mostly had them turned off anyway. I also inaugurated my RGS caboose (a Westside brass model, by far my most expensive car) with the illuminated light on the cupola. Kind of neat. Originally, I could have cared less for that "protrusion" on top of the cupola. But having seen it at work, so to speak, led to a kind of reconciliation on my part. :tb-wink: A bit odd, of course, that the caboose had lights on when the engine did not.
Yes, the polarity issue is solved now. Though it would not have mattered in the case with these double tracks. As I already mentioned, I lost the lights of the mudhen on the way, but that had nothing to do with the polarity.
I just wanted to pop in here and mention that I - personally - think any mention of On30 being a toy... or even embodying any "toy-like" elements is sheer lunacy, and, to a degree, pretty darned insulting. Brio... ... is a toy train. Do I think it's a wonderful introduction for toddlers and small children to the world of trains? Absolutely (hell, I started on it myself), but it could never be defined as anything other than a toy - it simply isn't detailed or exacting enough to come close to the definition of being a model. Then there's something like... ... which has been referred to, here and elsewhere, as "toy-like." How is this a toy? It's big, detailed, heavy... but at the same time delicate. It is an instrument of finesse. It isn't even "toy-like" - it's certainly not cheap (like most toys), made wholly out of plastic, or - and this is the big thing - intended for use by children. How long would it last in the hands of a small child? Its functional lifespan could be counted in seconds, likely on fewer digits than most human beings possess. Toys are largely designed from the ground up to be utilized by children - On30, under no circumstances I can see, is built, marketed or sold with this intent. I realize that this has been touched on at length, but I don't think that this precludes me from adding my own stern voice to the choir. When someone says something like "In that respect, I consider On30 to be toys, and not models of the real thing," I find that insulting. I don't care what the intent behind the statement was - its result was still the same... and, I might wager, I could produce a similar emotional response in the author (or other like-minded individuals) in walking up to their scale and chiming in with something along the lines of: "On3's engines don't blow off real steam, consume real coal, or ride on track hammered down by a sweaty team of professionals in overalls. They don't accurately model the real thing, so they're just toys." Does that make you feel good? Do you think what you said made us feel good? This is a small enough hobby as it is... you (anyone out there who thinks their chosen scale is superior for whatever reason) do none of us (yourself, your friends in On3, the dude down the street who models only in G scale, nobody) any favors by putting another scale down. And, again, I don't care what the intent behind a comment is - in this day in age, more than any other previously, the offensiveness of words is determined by the offended and not the offender. On30 is a real, legitimate, hardcore, bread-and-butter scale... and, what's more, it seems to be growing faster, or at least as fast, as any other on the market today. On top of that, in a kooky similarity to the aforementioned Brio, it is bringing new people into the hobby. For whatever reason - it's cheapness, its ease of use, its availability - On30 appeals to newcomers. It's unfortunate that anyone involved in the hobby would want to label those adult folks who are spending their hard-earned cash and precious hours in the same hobby as yourself as playing with "toys." Some things should be kept to one's self. Utterances like the one that motivated this post definitely fall into that category.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with sharing your agreement or disagreement with anything on this forum as it relates to trains! There is something a touch ironic about the specific example you've posted. I would disagree about that engine. I have one on my layout...the only things changed being new tender trucks, regauged to my On3 track, and a Ridgeway Spark Arrester applied. Still, it was designed as much for trainsets (which generally target the toy-train market) and Christmas Villages (of which I'm not certain what they are!). The detail on it definitely isn't on par with Bachmann's other locomotives...but I view it as have the most potential of anything out there (aside from BLI's C-16) for bashing and providing parts. Sure, B-man also puts their fine HO Spectrum 2-8-0 and N&W J in train sets, but the traditional train set market is children...especially those in late elementary and junior high school. I suppose, getting a definition of model vs. toy train would be far easier (and emotional?) in the O-scale/gauge forum. Afterall, one of the most popular magazines for in that area is Classic Toy Train. And their are other Toy Train Collectors association. They are mostly gentlemen twice my age which drop far more money on trains that I could dream of doing. Some (or many?) also buy gorgeously detailed locomotives to run alongside their toy trains. I do think of the On30 mogul as a model, but I can also accept it to be a toy due to the odd circumstances of its introduction. I cannot accept their Forney, 2-8-0, or 4-6-0 as toys...they are very nice models...nice than my brass locomotives. Michael
To all this I can only cite a saying that I picked up long ago. And I think it describes the situation quite well: "The difference between men and boys is the price of their toys...!" Thus, even a real airplane can be a toy. So what is wrong with it? Sure, I'm not too happy when someone mentions my model train collection being toys. But why am I not happy, because the wording says that person does not appreciate what I'm doing with my spare time/money. As we are all in the same boat, we might do well in not using offending wording. But then, we all have our value systems, and we somehow try to make these known. And as we all experience such "offending" situations, we'd do better not taking them too seriously and trying not to be too thin-skinned. Let's just each enjoy our hobby the way WE as individuals want it, and not vie for general acceptance. (I would not even have started this particular thread if that had been a concern for me. And even less would I have added pictures of my temporary layouts here. Knowing how beautiful and intricate many layouts of those who look at mine are.)
This is one of many threads where some pictures got lost when TB had to be made safer. So I'm trying to add some of the lost shots that might be critical. Here is a picture of that jig that is mentioned above a few times. I need it to produce curved sectional pieces out of flex tracks. I still keep using it occasionally, but have since added a second set to produce curved track with a somewhat larger radius. As can be seen in the second picture. The larger radius is on the left as the track needs less bending.
And here is a substitute for the missing photo in post #32, showing an early double-track temporary layout. I have since posted quite a few short videos on YouTube under the name piebstrains1. The first one can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=cBI0m_Ch2xM It also shows the MMI engines and the RGS caboose mentioned above (in post #32 as well).
