It has been quite some time since I recieved the kit, last one Uncle Will had. I understand Hobbycrafts N More has these kits available. Here is the link; http://hobbycraftsnmore.com/php3dp30mub0020/products.php?cat=467 This is what you get in the kit. You will recieve a main shell, a molded frame to go over the rear set of trailing wheels, three pieces making up the Tender, two small screws and two small styrene tubing cut off pieces. The screws and styrene tubing are to secure the trucks to the Tender, styrene acting as nuts. You will need a Marklin 8891, 8892, or 8893 4-6-2 chassis. The instructions require also two modern 2 axle European passenger car trucks. This is one a select few photos I can find on the web of this locomotive. If you look at the Tender it appears to have two 3 axle trucks. For this reason I actually used the 3 axle trucks from Marklins Heavy Duty Flat car. These trucks work perfectly if you ask me. I used two brass 2-56 1/4" screws in place of the two in the kit. I used a Dremel to carefully bevel the screws so they could be used on the bottom of the 3 axle trucks without interfere=ing with the trucks movement. I drilled out the styrene tubing and run a 2-56 Tap thru the tubing to allow the 2-56 screws an easier application. I used my Xuron cutters to remove the coupler housing from the truck. I placed 2 small brass washers that fit the 2-56 screw between the Tenders body and the truck frames. This was done to prevent the trucks from catching on a metal stop under the tender frame. You will see it when you get to this part of the kit. I do not have any photos of this yet other than a side view of the Tender. ----------------------- You do not need to modify the main K4 shell except to carefully clean any metal flashing. The hole on top for the Marklin chassis is Perfectly Placed. If you cannot get your Marklin chassis to line up keep working on the chassis. You will want to remove this piece from both side of the Chassis. Take notice how this part slips into the plastic piece on the front of the loco chassis. You will be completely removing the pocket that this part fits into. More photos of this pocket removed to come.
Part II Please excuse some of my photos as they might be a bit on the crude side. This angle shows the plastic part that usually represents the steam cylinders that drive the wheels. You should remove this part because you will be hobby knifing alot of it away. Notice that their are two holes, one for the part described in part I of this and one for the drive rod from the wheels. The hole on the bottom is for the drive rod. You will need to totally remove the upper hole and trim the side of the bottom hole till you can almost see the drive rod in the hole. I need better photos or diagrams but these will have to do. You can see in this close-up that I actually cut into the hole area of the bottom drive rod's hole. Your plastic piece needs to be modified like this in order for it to fit under the shell correctly. Even like this a slight amount of pressure will be needed to carefully press the chassis the last millimeter to seat it correctly in the shell. Here is another photo. You should use a fresh sharp hobby knife blade to make the trimming easier. DO NOT CUT the bottom drive rod hole off or you will need to repair it somehow or purchase another from Marklin.
Part III This photo shows the under side of the chassis secured in the shell. It's a very snug fit! This one shows the top with the Marklin screw securing both parts together. I have not yet gone so far as to placing or even thinking about coupling the Loco and Tender together. I don't have time to do that for I will be leaving tomorrow for an 8 week job. Will work on it then. ---------------------------------- You can find the two versions of paint schemes for this loco here; http://www.americanmodels.com/locos/k-4.html Here is a photo! If you have any questions or have experience putting this baby together please post all info to this thread. Thanks Hobo Tim p.s. One last thought, if you look at the models and the proto photo of the Loewy K4 you will notice the drive gear and wheels have a low skirt. I am no expert at this but I am guessing a thin piece of styrene can be used to mimick this on the PennZee model.
Tim, There is a reason for the confusion on the tender trucks. The Pennsy made an experimental tender years before the first streamlined K4. It was a Kiesel Tender class 180F82 (approx 18000 gallon Freight tender w/82" deck height). Only one was built. It was the only Kiesel with 6 wheel trucks. When the Pennsy made their first streamlined K4, they used this one of a kind tender (modified to class 180P75 passenger tender w/75" deck height). It was roughly 45 feet long. It was in use with the streamline from about 1936-1942. It was used on K4 #3768. The other four streamlines(1120,2665,3678 and 5338) all had 110P75A tenders (11000 gallon, four wheel trucks, 32' long). Eventually (1942) 3768 also got a 110P75A. Just a little piece of useless trivia. Dan S.
Tim, Attached are some photos of Pennsy streamlines 3768 and 3678. Early 3768 had full skirting, later it was removed. 3678 (made later) didn't have the skirting. Also note that a lot of the streamlining on the top of the tenders was later stripped on all of them. Like you said, photos of the streamlines are pretty slim. I have a few pictures of the tenders from an old Keystone magazine. Dan S. P.S.- The first photo shows 3768 in later years with no skirting and 110P75A tender. The second is 3768 at the 1939 worlds fair. The third is 3678 with "less streamlined" 110P75A tender. The fourth and fifth are 3768 with original skirting and 180P75 tender.
Dan, How many and which of them were painted in tuscan? From what i understand, not many, but I like the look of the tuscan so much better. PRR's heavyweights were mostly tuscan weren't they? Randy
Randy, Every color picture that I have ever seen of Pennsy Heavyweights, they were tuscan, but , I'm not sure. As for the loc itself, I know I read somewhere that at least one of the streamlines was painted tuscan, at least for a time. Most of their steam was painted dark locomotive green. I think a couple of "special" passenger trains might have been painted tuscan. I don't think the "official" green for freight and tuscan passenger locs started until the 1950s with diesels and electrics. Dan S.
Hello Tim Where are the 6-Wheels-Trucks from? Are they from Aspenmodel? EDIT: Oh sorry, I read it again, it's from Märklin.
Larry they come from the marklin Heavy weight cars. I just completed one of the tenders and am working on my second. The six wheel trucks work perfectly in allowing the marklin coupler to be ued or the pocket for an MTL coupler. I am awaiting mine to be painted, but I still need a cylinder block as i shaved the one too close and it does pop out once in awhile when running. If you are building this take note early models from Marklin the screw lines up perfectly(for the boiler), later models do not
Tender Questions I know it is not the most sensible thing to do, starting a streamlined tender for the K4 bodyshell a week before a train show but the rest of Cuyahoga looks o.k for this weekends Furness model railway exhibition and I fancy some steam hauling the red varnish. however I could do with some advice. I have used the drawing in MR Cyclopedia and also the profile publications tome but neither shows the tender rear. Am I right in thinking the ladder is on the left as you look at the rear of the tender and is the light on top of the deck? I have a feeling that M.G Damask red is a pretty good match for the Tuscan red and should have it running in primer on Good Friday. Still got the side skirts to put back on though. not the best pic, taken late on saturday night in my home office with direct flash
If you are looking at the back the ladder is on the left, question to you though how did you affix the tender to the lokomotive( i have several ideas, but like how close yours sems to be). JD
A looped bit of brass wire that fits over the pin in the centre of the marklin coupling box which is now empty. Epoxied in place. bent to just go over the eye on the back of the trailing truck and bent down at 90 degrees at the preferred spacing. As Cuyahoga has wide sweeping curves I can get away with close coupling the loco and tender. Just need to get the first baggage car a bit closer.
If he don't need the tender, I am interested in it, I just found my streamlined K4 kit today while cleaning up my garage.
Kevin, Just for the record, the skirting on these locs was removed in fairly short order. It made maintenence and upkeep too dificult to meet tight passenger schedules. Below are K4s 3768 (with and without skirting) and 3678. Dan S.
If anyone needs the tender, London Bridge has them, they cast them for PennZee, I am sure Ron could get you one. I got a kit with two right halves of the tender, and Ron fixed me up with me the other halves. JD
