Question about a tabletop structure

Cowboy Jan 15, 2011

  1. Cowboy

    Cowboy TrainBoard Member

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    Hello,

    I am new to the hobby, and have been doing a ton of reading. So much so that I changed my idea on my benchwork. Originally I was going to build an "L" shape table with two 4x8 pieces of plywood. Now I have a room that is 12' x 10' and want to build a table around the perimeter. The table will run around the room and be 36" wide.

    To do this I was thinking of using this type of support system [​IMG]
    (image borrowed from ModelTrainBuilder.com)

    I am hoping you may be able to guide me. Given that the table will run 12' do I need to have legs in the front or would the back support work?

    Secondly, the studs along one wall are steel (the remainder of three walls are wood studs). How would I mount the 2x2 to the steel studs to ensure strength for the benchwork? Would they be as strong as the wood? Do I need to mount a sheet of plywood along the studs first and then mount the 2x2s?

    Any help or insight you could provide would be spectacular. Thank you.

    ... James
     
  2. Seated Viper

    Seated Viper TrainBoard Member

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    James, Welcome aboard!

    You don't mention it in your post, but how are you going to enter or leave your railway room? Are you having a stairway into the centre or is there a door on one wall? If a doorway, are you planning to have a hinged area of board, or is the track to run round three and a half sides rather than all four?

    Regards,

    Pete Davies
     
  3. gregamer

    gregamer TrainBoard Supporter

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    I made a layout that way. The ends were around 36" wide. All of the frames were secured to each other. The whole system was extremely sturdy.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I'd caution against making much of your layout 36" deep. Because you won't be able to reach the rear.
     
  4. Mike C

    Mike C TrainBoard Member

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    Mount the 2x2 inside the steel studs channel with drywall screws. That should be plenty sturdy.....Mike


    ALSO IF THE WALL STUDS ARE EXPOSED (oops caps lock :) ) you wont even need the 2x2s on the wooden ones....Mike
     
  5. PuppySnacks

    PuppySnacks Guest

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    Hey Cowboy, welcome to the TrainBoard and the world's most expensive hobby!

    Is this benchwork plan of yours for HO or N, or better yet, Z? My personal thoughts and experience on this would be to not even secure your benchwork to the studs in your walls solving your entire problem...unless of course, you are sure you want this layout to be 100% permanent. Plus, you woln't have to jack-up your walls. I don't know about you, but I like my Behr Premium Plus Ultra paint job! You could just build, with the dimension's you listed: 12'x10' at 36" wide, separate modules at 3'x4' and 3'x5', using 2x4s for legs, 1x6s for sidings (looks better than 1x4s), and 1/2" sanded plywood for your base with 2" extruded polystyrene insulation board secured on top. This way, your entire layout can come apart, loaded up, pay the fee for a spot, and taken to your local train show! I wonder if you can charge an operating fee to get your money back for the spot...? Anyway, although I do not model in HO, isn't 3 foot wide benchwork a bit tight? That is, if your benchwork is even for HO...and if it is, I will be listening for the school-bell with my eager face on.

    What is the estimated height of your benchwork? How I see it, and from what I have read, the taller the better, as far as viewing purposes are concerned. But it is now harder to reach the back and corner portions of your layout, especially if you plan on going wider than 3'. The lower the better, as far as reaching and working purposes are concerned. But now, you will have more of a bird's eye view of your layout. I prefer to go with a little bit lower benchwork (around 40" in total height in both N and Z) simply because I do prefer a bit of an aerial view, plus, it's simply much easier to reach all your areas when working on your layout...which is what you will be spending the majority of your time doing. But more importantly, I enjoy having larger radii (nothing below 18"), thus a wider benchwork and lower benchwork, making it easier to reach to boot. Then, when it comes time to run trains, just pull up a chair for a semi-level view, or, just stand up for an aerial view! As a member on here once told me: "your member name reminds me a lot of one of my favorite sayings for someone young, or an easy job...Baby Food"!
     
  6. Hytec

    Hytec TrainBoard Member

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    Consider welded shelf brackets as an alternative to building wooden frames. Each bracket will support more than 100 pounds when attached through the wallboard to studs with 2-1/2" sheetrock screws. Brackets up to 22" long are available at building supply stores like Home Depot and Lowe's.

    [​IMG]

    After adding 1"x2" supports to the tops of the brackets, I laid two sheets of 3/4" foam board on top.

    [​IMG]

    This configuration supports the track and scenery nicely.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Cowboy

    Cowboy TrainBoard Member

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    Wow, thanks everyone. You have given me lots to think about.

    To answer a few questions:
    1. I am working in HO scale
    2. The table will be 44" high
    3. All the studs are exposed EXCEPT the steel ones
    4. The table will go all around the room. I will build a "lift up" section to get into the room.
    5. I am fairly tall so I think reaching across the 36" with the aid of a stepping stool should be okay.

    One of the reasons I was thinking of mounting the table directly to the wall was to increase stability and I was thinking it would aid in keeping things level (won't have to mess around with leg adjustments).

    Great input and suggestions. Now I going to rethink the concept of attaching the whole thing to the wall. Perhaps just two sides and the remainder free standing ...
     
  8. Specter3

    Specter3 TrainBoard Member

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    layout

    Just remember that the diagonal distance into a corner on benchwork that is 36 inches deep is 50+ inches. Makes those corners absolutely inaccessible. I would think about something like this.

    [​IMG]

    Make your shelves 12-18 inches deep and the peninsula 40 inches at the base and maybe 50 at the top for a 24 inch radius u turn. Plus if you want to get adventurous you could put a partial helix at the end of the peninsula and have both lines go to staging underneath the entire layout. The end of the peninsula would be both ends of the modeled portion of the line.
     
  9. Cowboy

    Cowboy TrainBoard Member

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    Ryan - now THAT is an interesting concept. Not quite sure if it is something I want, but I will admit I am intrigued. I am going to explore this further.

    .. James
     
  10. Tracy McKibben

    Tracy McKibben TrainBoard Member

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    I used common track-mounted shelving brackets (from Home Depot) to mount a 3'x10' shelf layout to the wall. The benchwork is a simple frame built from 1"x4" stock (2 10' sides, 2 34" ends, 4 34" center braces). The two ends and each center brace align with a shelving track, each of which is screwed into the wall studs. The cross braces are also screwed to the shelving brackets. The shelf is rock solid.
     
  11. Cowboy

    Cowboy TrainBoard Member

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    Would these work as well attached to steel studs that are behind gypsum board?

    Also, thanks to the input from Specter3 (Ryan B) I have modified my overall design to this:

    [​IMG]

    I think this gives me much more flexibility as I grow, understand, and expand.

    .. James
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 16, 2011
  12. Hytec

    Hytec TrainBoard Member

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    In either case, welded brackets or shelf tracks, try to get the same type of screws that the builder used to secure the kitchen and bathroom cabinets to the steel studs. Cabinets would put a higher load on the studs than any layout. Clerks at Home Depot and Lowe's who are familiar with steel stud construction should be able to help you.
     
  13. StrasburgNut

    StrasburgNut TrainBoard Member

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    Hank,

    Do you have a layout plan you can post? I am interested in your schematics.
     
  14. Tracy McKibben

    Tracy McKibben TrainBoard Member

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    I have no experience with steel studs, so I'll defer to others for this answer... I would assume that it depends on the type of screws that you use.
     
  15. Hytec

    Hytec TrainBoard Member

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    Well, sorta...

    This sketch shows a general concept that I followed for track layout. The scenery is evolving as I put it in. That is to say, if a whim strikes and it seems workable, it happens. The bottom left corner is no longer a large paper mill, but now houses two smaller factories shown in the photo. The covered bridge was added because folks had to get to work somehow, and I thought it looked cool...:tb-cool:
    My concept is a cross between northern New Hampshire woods and southern Mississippi rural.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. StrasburgNut

    StrasburgNut TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for the details. Between your plan and pachyderm217's (Todd), I think I am going down the right track!

    Back to your regularly scheduled thread!

    8-D
     
  17. Bevale

    Bevale TrainBoard Member

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    I may be a bit late on this, but if you are fastening to steel stud, drywall screws should do the trick. The key is to have a deep, tight thread. Length isn't as important, just as long as it goes far enough into the stud to be on the full thread. Don't over tighten them either or you will drill the hole in the steel stud too large and it will be a little sloppier. The stud itself should be able to support the weight as well. With the drywall fastened to them, they can be nearly as rigid as a wood stud wall.

    Cheers,
     

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