I like your trackplan- should be enough switching action to keep you and perhaps another crew quite busy. AND I agree with the grimy black- some of that, and you have a rode-hard-and-put-up-wet locomotive that's been earning its keep and then some.
Just don't make 'em all dirty. A few should be in a clean (but used) condition! Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4
Today i ordered most of my structures including the following I have also ordered a number of overpass bridges etc
Have you seen this months model railroader? There is an article by Pelle Søeborg with his Daneville Sub, there is a image showing his cement plant which is raised above the mainline, I think the break in levels looks great and was thinking of raising maybe the brewery with the 3 sidings? but not sure if i have the length because of the switches but maybe from in front of the #5 switch in front of the grain area however the actual siding need to be level, would just be nice to have it on a different level, what do you think? This is the effect I would like The brown section is what would be raised approx 1/2 inch
That is a great idea Paul. Even a small difference in elevation makes a big change in look. Go for it if you can. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
I agree it don't take much elevation change to get the look your after I will be keeping up with this build.
It is a good idea, but remember that in H0 scale (metal wheelsets) the cars will roll much easier than in N scale with the MicroTrains wheel sets. Too much of an incline might make them roll out of the siding.
All a question of being able to gain the height before the siding starts. On my Slovene layout, cars on sidings I thought were level would roll out onto the running line! Better if they roll the other way if at all! It takes only a minute grade for modern HO cars to roll. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Yes agreed Flash and Alan hence why a large section will be leavened to ensure all the yard and industries are level, the only track on grade will be the mainline track between the number 8 turnout and the roadway
Today I received all the switches for the layout they are code 83 Peco electrofrog, the question I have do I need to power the frog? If so how would i switch it considering all my points are manual with caboose industry throw overs
That's a good question about how to power them with a manual throw. I have a club that has unpowered frogs and it is not good for short wheelbase engines. I recommend that you power the frogs.
If using manual throws, you could use a dropper wire/rod to operate a 2-way microswitch under the table. Electrofrogs should be switched as blade contact cannot be relied upon. Anything in the instructions for the turnouts? Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
I actually got around to reading the instructions and the switches do feed the frog except the final V. I did read by soldering a bridge wire between the outer rail across to the switch rail just past the heel will improve reliability as it removes reliance on the switch contact. You can also purchase a switch that mounts under the bald to switch the frog so i will need to decide which way to go
