Well, The first peninsula has been installed, although cross bracing is still needed. All went swimmingly well until my wife pointed out that the peninsula is as large as my entire HO layout was !! I looked at it and she was right...4 X 8 feet. Well I'm in the dog house ...I was told there is no way we can get a car in the garage now, even if the peninsula was on rollers...I think she's right !! Well I'll make it up to her tonight with a nice dinner (after a trip to the hobby shop for track and roadbed !!). Happy Modeling!! John ------------------ The Santa Fe and Southwestern, Chief of the Southwest!!
John, when you get back from the store, you might think about doing something I did to get a 6'6" wide x 11" long HO layout with elevated railways, church Steeples etc. in and out of standard 34" house doorways. Make a dolly with 4" casters to hold the total weight of the peninsula. Make a pedestal with a set of heavy door hinges mounted to the bottom of the peninsula and top of pedestal. Make the pedestal mount 6" off-center between the casters with the hinge pins close to the center between the casters. Now when the peninsula is tilted up vertically, the weight is basically balanced between the casters. the scenery is now on the long side, and the wiring on the short side of the dolly. for the 8 foot length you have I would hinge 3 legs that fold along the 8 foot side, and two on the other side. Now you only need 26" wide by 8 foot to roll the peninsula into for storage. It can even be less depending upon how rough the floor is. You only need 12" for casters and dolly cross arms plus the 48" width of peninsula, so the total height when folded is only 60". If you balance the weight as folded very close to the center of the casters, it will be difficult to tip over, so the casters can be closer together. I can make you a drawing if you like. You would still fasten it to the layout the same as you are now. I mounted the hinges so when folded up flat, the weight holds it up on the legs. Use the metal spring loaded braces like the ones on card tables for each leg. Put a short cable, cord, or strap to hold the "foot" of each leg when it is folded, so it doesn't swing down until you want it to. Works great. You will remember to remove all rolling stock before tilting the table; THE SECOND TIME!!HA! Email if an questions, I'll send drawing. ------------------ Watash #982
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by watash: John, when you get back from the store, you might think about doing something I did to get a 6'6" wide x 11" long HO layout with elevated railways, church Steeples etc. in and out of standard 34" house doorways. Make a dolly with 4" casters to hold the total weight of the peninsula. Make a pedestal with a set of heavy door hinges mounted to the bottom of the peninsula and top of pedestal. Make the pedestal mount 6" off-center between the casters with the hinge pins close to the center between the casters. Now when the peninsula is tilted up vertically, the weight is basically balanced between the casters. the scenery is now on the long side, and the wiring on the short side of the dolly. for the 8 foot length you have I would hinge 3 legs that fold along the 8 foot side, and two on the other side. Now you only need 26" wide by 8 foot to roll the peninsula into for storage. It can even be less depending upon how rough the floor is. You only need 12" for casters and dolly cross arms plus the 48" width of peninsula, so the total height when folded is only 60". If you balance the weight as folded very close to the center of the casters, it will be difficult to tip over, so the casters can be closer together. I can make you a drawing if you like. You would still fasten it to the layout the same as you are now. I mounted the hinges so when folded up flat, the weight holds it up on the legs. Use the metal spring loaded braces like the ones on card tables for each leg. Put a short cable, cord, or strap to hold the "foot" of each leg when it is folded, so it doesn't swing down until you want it to. Works great. You will remember to remove all rolling stock before tilting the table; THE SECOND TIME!!HA! Email if an questions, I'll send drawing. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> I think Watash is onto somthing here. I wsa thinking of maybe making it high enuff for the front of the car to go under? and make yerself a walk way to get yerself around the out sides of the layout with????? ------------------ CK& Bird Butt Railroad - Its a coal mining region of a place far far away, that shares rails with SP, NS... Era: Time stands still round these parts, and we have everything from Steam, to Diesels...
Thanks guys!! Yeah I'd love a drawing Watash... I have also been thinking of the open side so the end of the car would fit AND the possibility of using pullys to raise the peninsula to the ceiling when not in use. Very open to suggestions, as the nice dinner helped, but I'm not outta the dog house yet...but at least she didn't tell me to tear it down!! Happy Modeling!! John ------------------ The Santa Fe and Southwestern, Chief of the Southwest!!
Drawing coming up JCater. The tilting one. Not to scale, I have no idea you height etc, so just to give you the idea to fill in your own dimensions as needed. Ask her if you can hoist her car to the ceiling, so you can have a big layout? That ought to clear the fence like a lead balloon! HA! ------------------ Watash #982
John, Where is the nearest hobby shop to Montrose? ------------------ Rod v. B. Rio Grande iNdustries
Thanks Watash!! I'll run the idea of hoisting the car up by her!! I must say that was a LOL!! The nearest hobby shop to Montrose is Grand Junction, where there are two. I frequent Hobby Hut. They are a bit pricey, but the guys there are friendly and helpful. I have actually entertained the idea of quiting my job and opening a shop here in town, with a heavy reliance on e-mail orders (aren't a lot of modelers in town), just because there is not one here...Happy Modeling!! John ------------------ The Santa Fe and Southwestern, Chief of the Southwest!!
OK here is your tilt drawing. It is drawn to full size on the computer then shunk .050 to fit on the photo. So, it is porportional. the casters are 3" 100 pound load. One by fours are .75"x 3.5", 2x4's are 1.5" x 3.5" and the peninsula top is 48"x96" and when horizontal, is 30" off the floor. You could set porportional dividers and actually scale the photo, but I suggest you fit up what you need now that you see the idea. I allowed one inch clear in all pinch areas, to protect your fingers. Do the same. These casters are the ones with 5/16-18 threads, so are adjustable for height and level. Insert 5/16-18 "T" nuts in holes in the bottom of each leg for casters, and leveling hex head bolts with lock nuts. The hinges are 3" flat plate hinges available at most hardware stores. Use 1/4-20 flat head cap screws to mount the hinges so they can close flat. You can brace the legs with those Cedar Chest lid folding braces, that are spring loaded at their elbow. Use 3/4 plywood for the top, or add more cross pieces under to prevent sagging and warp. Use large screen door hooks to fasten in the up right position, so someone doesn't accidentally push the top down while trying to move the module out of their way. Best make a block to strike the caster cross arms when rolling module under the layout; to stop it before hitting any buildings on the edge of the layout. The car fender will likly slide along wiring without damage, but could wipe out a town, see? Also helps keep little fingers off when you aren't looking. I'll send you a bill. ------------------ Watash #982
