May 24, 2009
looking really good. Love that bridge.
You always do beautiful work Wolfgang!
Now I'm "fighting" with colors, what's the "right" color?
So far my results for now:
Wolfgang, the rachet and pawl a device used to set and release the brakes. The ratchet is mounted on the brake staff...usually at either the deck of a platform car (such as a flat car or gondola) or on the roof of a house car (box, stock or reefer). On passenger cars and cabooses, it is usually directly on the endbeam. The brake wheel is typically about 15" above the roof of a house car or 4' above the deck on a platform car, caboose, or passenger car. The reason for this was that a brakeman wouldn't enjoy turning a wheel that was either at his ankles or above his head.
The pawl is the device that fits into the ratchet. When tightening, it holds it where you stop turning. To loosen, you press the end of the pawl not in the ratchet teeth, and the brakes are disengaged. Gravity is what causes the brakes to fall off the wheels.
I would suggest a couple of Grandt Line's HOn3 kits. They are super detailed and easy to build. It'll help you learn many of the part names and such. Btw, the grab iron jig is actually from Grandt Line...I make my own like that for scratch built cars if I don't have the correct grab iron size.
Thank you Michael for the hints and ideas.
Silver Creek trestle
Now I've started building the trestle.
Here're the first pictures.
You see my drawing as template. I've cut the stringers from 6 mm strip wood. I've laid my spare bridge ties at the curved section. At this phase I inserted all those Nut-Bolt-Washers.
For the bents I mad a jig.
Before removing the bent I glued one sway brace and inserted also the NBWs.
I see prototypical stringer construction. Fine work! (and prototypical bent construction).
Silver Creek trestle
More work with the trestle. I've rebuild it to have the bents parallel with the flow of water. And I've added foundations.
One bent at the left is still missing, it will rest at the rock.
I've also filled the gorge with rocks, at least at the left side. Silver Creek will flow at the other side.
Now I've started to make water. :angel:
I poured a bit of gloss varnish and distributed it with a brush. This is now two days ago. At first the varnish looked milky - now clear. This will be the base for the paint, black, blue and at the flat places some muddy color.
You see I'm still waiting for my ordered bridge ties.
Wolfgang, you do the finest work and make it look easy. It is NOT easy, it takes SKILL !!!
Way back, when you made one, did you take photos of a 'diamond' rail crossing ?
Watash, I've made several picture-how-to's from my crossings. This crossing was the latest for my new Westport.
Another crossing at Diamond Valley and the How To from my website.
Now I'm busy with trackwork. I've made the two dual gauge turnouts, code 70. This was the way I described at the begin of this thread.
Here's the first narrow gauge turnout, code 55 glued down.
The turnout is soldered to PC board ties. But I've used also wooden ties between.
Busy with the first two segments.
I lay the track over the segment border, solder it. When I've finished all tracks there I cut the rails and can separate the segments.
The dual gauge track is from Central Valley, ties strips. I've glued the third rail to the tie strips. The other track is a mix from Kappler ties and PC board ties. Pc board ties to keep the gauge. And I glue the rail to the wooden ties.
Those crossing is curved. :angel:
Look at the plan. And code 55.
And now wiring. That's easy with the segments put on edge.
When the segment is finished, testing comes. Testing for shortcuts. Somewhere you may have forgotten to cut the PC board. :angel:
And testing if all frogs have always the correct polarity.
Somehow I missed this thread until now. Being a fan of handlay I must say I think you build some of the best trackwork I've seen. This looks like a cool project. Looking forward to more updates.
That curved diamond is very cool. While the craftsmanship is excellent, the idea to add the curved diamond really takes it over the top! Nice work!
The wiring of a crossing has always given me a headache. Yet this looks to be done so easily! :thumbs_up:
Wiring is easy. :angel:
I would go with those crossing with a Hex Frog Juicer - Automatic Frog Polarity Switch, it will cost me about $80. But I have to buy some scenic material and I want a H0n3 engine. So I will have to save my money for this.
Wiring the old way:
I've drawn only the "master" turnout - # 5 in my plan - at the left side and the next one from the other side.
The left turnout needs a triple switch, the other turnouts only a double switch (DPDT).
I need a switch in any case for the throw bar end position. The switch serves as spring.
One switch of the left turnout powers the turnout frog (green) and one frog of the crossing (also green).
The other switch serves the other frog of the crossing (yellow). This frog has the opposite polarity.
The position of the other turnouts are independent. There's only one problem. If the other turnout are also thrown into a route via crossing, there're two routes over the crossing.
This is not possible, The frogs of the crossings can not have the correct polarity for these two routes.
To help the crew to recognize this impossible turnout position, I install a flashing LED. This should remember the crew, hopefully. :angel:
If the left turnout is lined for the crossing, the third switch is closed, if the right turnout is also lined for the crossing, this switch is also closed. Now the flashing LED has power and can remember the crew.
I'll have to get one of those for my 3-way stub switch...I haven't found a good way to handle throwing it while altering the polarity of the 3-frogs simultaneously.
you can power this stub with a servo motor. A servo motor has three positions.
And you can use microswitches for the frogs. A micro switch each side of the "throwbar". This way you have a switch with three positions.