The New Oakville Sub

Jim Reising Jun 23, 2008

  1. Jim Reising

    Jim Reising In Memoriam

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    We've got a passenger detour on the sub today:

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    But the real news is the signals are now operating!

    Here's the return trip:

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    And as the signal drops:

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    It's great to have working signals. These are done with Digitrax BDL168s for detection and CML's SIGM20s for the signal logic and drivers.

    The tough part was rewiring the south room for detection - the rest of the layout will be much easier.
     
  2. Boilerman

    Boilerman TrainBoard Supporter

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    The signals look just super, adding life to the photo and I am sure to the layout!!!!!
     
  3. JSL

    JSL TrainBoard Member

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    Looking good Jim. We need a tutorial on your signal construction. I sure wish Serge had been able to stay in business.

    JSL
     
  4. Jim Reising

    Jim Reising In Memoriam

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    Ya know, I've thought about doing one - even took some pictures - but not enough. I'm just starting to put together the last dozen heads, lemme see what I can come up with.

    It's really pretty straightforward, and fun in a perverse sort of way. Especially when you've tested the LEDs everystep of the way and only when you've installed it on the layout does one decide to no longer work...but you learn a lot when you repair them...nothing quite like pulling those tiny little wires through a tiny little mast...

    The bad news is TrainCat is out of both the D Style mast kits and the D Style heads - I don't know how long it'll take him to restock, but then again, I don't think I need any more (Hallelujah!).
     
  5. DarylK

    DarylK TrainBoard Member

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    Jim,

    Are the signals always green when the block is clear or are they red or dark unless a train is approaching? Here in Rochelle I believe the BNSF signals are dark unless a train is approaching. UP signals are red.

    Looking good!

    Daryl
     
  6. Jim Reising

    Jim Reising In Memoriam

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    At the moment the signal represents the status of the block. Once I get everything together, then I'll change the program to more accurately represent the prototype. Changing the program is quite easy, done via computer and PR-3.
     
  7. Jim Reising

    Jim Reising In Memoriam

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    I've been asked for a tutorial on how I build signals. Here 'tis.

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    This photo shows the materials required to build my type of signals. We begin with the fret from TrainCat. The kit is D type Signal Masts. Next are 603 LEDs from Richmond Controls, then a cut mast and three uncut masts, some brass sheet I scribed for the snow hoods (will be scissored later), finshed hoods to the left, A couple completed masts, the targets and .030 insulating styrene, and of course some ACC to glue it all together.

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    This shot shows the targets with the insulators glued to the back and drilled out for the LEDs. You will want to paint the front of the target to hide the unused hole for the old style light shield (see the four on the right) and the insides of the holes so white is not seen.

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    Next, glue in the LEDs. I gently drill out just the styrene a bit larger than the target holes and the LEDs fit fairly snugly. This is a good place to warn you to be very careful handling the tiny LEDs. The wires WILL break if not properly handled. Bear this in mind for the rest of the construction process also. If you put a bunch of these together and don't have some LED failures my hat's off to you.

    [​IMG]

    Then you glue the support that holds the head to the mast. You want to make sure this is secure and the glue has dried before attempting to mount them.

    Continued next post
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 7, 2011
  8. Jim Reising

    Jim Reising In Memoriam

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    Continued from previous post

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    If a double head signal, prepare the mast by grinding a hole for the wires for the lower signal. Be sure to deburr the holes - the way must be as smooth as you can make it.

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    Slip the lower head over the mast past the hole and thread it's wires through the hole.

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    Glue the head in position. DO NOT get any glue in the hole. I recommend gluing from the bottom only and using just a tiny bit of adhesive. Any time you glue a head in position, gently test the wires to make sure you can still move them.

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    If a stacked set of heads, thread the top signal's wires and glue, again being VERY careful to NOT get glue near the wires or hole. Pictured is a back-to-back signal. I glue the heads in position before threading the wire.

    Continued next post
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 7, 2011
  9. Jim Reising

    Jim Reising In Memoriam

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    Continued from previous post

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    I add the rest of the hardware before pulling wires. The steps and braces are different depending on your signal configuration - see TrainCat's instructions.

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    Gently gather the wires and twist the last two inches together.

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    Thread the wires. When you get about to the point shown, separate the wires and bring them down one at a time to avoid tangles. Be gentle.

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    This is what it should look like when finished.

    Continued next post
     
  10. Jim Reising

    Jim Reising In Memoriam

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    Continued from previous post

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    Now we need to add some tube sections. I use a 1/4" tube as a socket, so we need to build out the brass using styrene.

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    And we need to have some wire extensions. I use Cat 5 wire - there are 8 separate wires in Cat 5 and for any double head unit you need 7. I use the blue as common, and a logical choice for the other colors. I add about ten inches. Note I have provided some strain relief on the white wire - using stripped insulation covered with shrink tubing. When you put those seven wires down a quarter inch tube, the individual wires need protection.

    I shouldn't have to tell you to test the LEDs several times - you will need to the first time to see which one lights so you can correctly color code them, but a final check before the signal is mounted should be mandatory.

    I use European style terminal strips under the layout. Once you get those seven wires through the tube you don't want them flapping around, nor do you want to place stress on them during hookup.

    You then need to connect the signals to your choice of supply or controller.

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    Here's the final result. These signals are not particularly inexpensive when your time is considered, but given what is presently available, it's worth the time to make 'em yourself. Good luck!
     
  11. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    I like it Jim...thnxs for the step-by-step :thumbs_up:

    .
     
  12. bigford

    bigford TrainBoard Member

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    very cool build! they add so much to an already killer layout!!!
     
  13. GaryHinshaw

    GaryHinshaw TrainBoard Member

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    Great write-up Jim. I'm on the tail end of building a Traincat signal bridge and this LED info is very timely. Nice work!

    -Gary
     
  14. Jim Reising

    Jim Reising In Memoriam

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    Thanks, guys! I appreciate the feedback.
     
  15. JSL

    JSL TrainBoard Member

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    Jim, Thanks for the tutorial. All the info you share is awesome. Thanks again.

    JSL
     
  16. PW&NJ

    PW&NJ TrainBoard Member

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    The signals look terrific! I wonder if there is some way to use CAT-5 RJ-45 connectors to allow for easy connect/disconnect of the unit? Maybe some crazy work in the base with a male connector plug plugging into a surface-mounted jack. I'm probably just crazy. Anyway, thanks for the great tutorial! :)
     
  17. Jim Reising

    Jim Reising In Memoriam

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    Oh, wow! IMO it's just too tight in there to use ANY kind of connector.

    It's a great thought, but there's simply no room. At least not for me or anyone I know!

    I decided to go with the Euro style strips just so I'd only have to monkey with those fragile connections ONCE.

    Thanks for the input!
     
  18. PW&NJ

    PW&NJ TrainBoard Member

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    OK, now this has me thinking. If you used a signal like this, with the relay box under the post (thanks to Gateway NMRA's homemade signal instructions):

    [​IMG]

    You could use the base to hold the extra wire, then attach an RJ-45 connector to a piece of styrene underneath and attach it with a clip or something (still working that out). Then use the RJ-45 jack flush mounted in the scenery to plug it in, with CAT5 wire feeding it. Something like this (excuse the crude representation, just whipped it up):

    [​IMG]
    Obviously the jacks would be facing the right way and all, but I think this might just work. Certainly in HO, but maybe in N-scale too. Imagine being able to pull a signal out for servicing and replace it with another (simple swaps).

    What'dya think?
     
  19. PW&NJ

    PW&NJ TrainBoard Member

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    And now this has me thinking even more. What about the tiny connectors used on motherboards for connecting fans, etc.? They make some pretty small connectors for internal wireless mini-PCI cards that might work, too. I'll dig through my supplier catalogs and see what I can come up with. Man, do I ever love a challenge. :)
     
  20. Jim Reising

    Jim Reising In Memoriam

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    I LOVE it when things take off like this.

    But I'M sure not about to try plug-ins. In reality, the signals should need no maintenance once they're in place - yeah, I know, famous last words...

    But the prototype is going away from the mast with integral box, just like they're going away from the searchlight type signal in favor of the more simple D type - which is why I did it the way I did it.
     

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